speed reducer

[Art]

Hi Vince,

The pedal varies the speed depending on how far it is depressed, however there are either a hi/lo speed switch and/or a knob you can adjust for the speed range, most have both now a days. Low speed control is pretty good no mater what the speed range; with everything on high and no speed reducer it will go like a scalded cat. With everything on low and a speed reducer it's slower than hand stitching.

Some of the variations had a reverse toggle on them; can't imagine that thing causing anything but trouble.

Art

Hi folks,

I just picked up the consew RB206rb-5 and was reading this thread. After using the machine with the clutch, even after adjusting the tension on the motor's arm that goes to the peddle, and playing with it, I find it just is too fast to control on the smaller pieces that I am doing. In regard to this message, I have a clarification question... when you say the Servo is more like an "Automatic Transmission", does the Treddle control act more as an on/off switch, with a fixed running speed set on the servo control adjustment, or do you still have speed adjustment like a gas peddle of the car, just more automatic?

Thanks,

Vince

[Artisan Dave]

Art,

Some industrial sewing machines (overlocks, etc) need the motor turning in the opposite direction.

Also, some of the folks who do not want to spend the bucks for a speed reducer should try a smaller pulley on the motor. The smaller the pulley, the slower their machine will turn. They probably have anything from a 2 1/2" all the way to a 3 1/2". Try a 2" or even smaller - there will be a noticeable difference.

[LAPat]

The smaller pulley is an idea, but if I were to get a servo, where is the best place to get one inexpensively?

Thanks

LA PAT

[Art]

Hi Pat,

This is a good motor:

http://www.allbrands.com/products/abp10568.html

If you get it, also get this smaller pully, and forget about a speed reducer:

http://www.allbrands.com/products/abp13843.html

Art

The smaller pulley is an idea, but if I were to get a servo, where is the best place to get one inexpensively?

Thanks

LA PAT

[Northmount]

The type of servo motors used on sewing machines follows the general rule for most motors.  The slower the motor goes, the less torque there is available.  So the idea for tough or thick leather is to use both a servo motor and a reduction pulley or gear reducer set.  The servo motor gives you easier speed control versus a clutch motor, and the speed reducer lets you run the motor at a higher speed so you will have the torque necessary to punch through that first stitch, or to crawl along at a stitch per second, or even slower depending on your setup.  I can go as slow as 7 seconds per stitch, but the high end speed is severely reduced.

Tom

 

[dikman]

For the reasons Tom has stated, I use speed reducers with two of my servos but on the third (the Pfaff) I fitted a much larger pulley in place of the handwheel, which gives the same effect as a speed reducer. Top speed is severely reduced, but that doesn't matter as I'm only interested in slow speed control.

As for the motor you linked to, it's pretty typical of most Chinese sewing machine servos - motor and mounting plate, linkage to the foot pedal and control box. The major difference between models/makes is usually how the settings are changed, some use two buttons, some use four. No reason that it shouldn't work. One difference that I just noticed is that it has a 12 mm shaft, most that I have seen have 15 mm shafts, no big deal but 15 mm seems to be the de-facto standard for shaft/pulley sizes. If you buy it make sure, if possible, that it is fitted with the smallest pulley size you can get (usually 2"/50 mm).

Edited November 1, 2016 by dikman

[brmax]

Whats your plan with reducer brands or builds, any over there particularly of interest.  I think with just that your going to be amazed.

fwiw I still use as a main machine a clutch motor, but it has the mitsibishi setup for positioning and will run circles around any positioner "here" but I don't have any efka stuff, I tend to have the music louder and talk louder working around that machine, but always happy

good day

Floyd

Edited November 2, 2016 by brmax

[TinkerTailor]

1 hour ago, Sticks said:

Ok thanks.

I will see what control I get with 40mm pulley on motor , reducer setup and elongated clutch lever..I do believe I will end up getting the servo though, however these initial changes wont be wasted as they will still add to the servo motor if acquired in the future.

 

As to your first question, the tysew motor appears to be a rebranded chinese motor based on the rest of their offerings. These rebranded motors can be either good and bad. Never heard of the tysew brand in particular, so i can not comment. I do know many on here have used the jack servo motors from  College-Sewing.co.uk  They can be a great resource to people who work on their own machines, as they have a ton of parts and accessories that can be hard to find. They have been used by others here with success. They also have efka motors, which are really pricey but apparently like switching from driving a trabant to a tesla.

The other thing I should meantion is the info in this particular thread is almost 10 tears old, while it is mostly correct, there is quite a bit of newer info on the motors on the market today floating around here. There are also several threads on custom motor and table setups people have built.

[Yetibelle]

Here is one way to get it done.

 

 

 

 

[TinkerTailor]

Notice the beeby-squeel from the motor in the video. Don't buy that one, I believe after watching it is a tysew.