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A bit late in this thread, but don't coconut oil, almond oil  etc. get oxidized over time? I have heard they do. 

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On 4/5/2023 at 12:21 PM, sheree said:

What happens if you only use beeswax and lanolin, ratio 1:3, for leather balm? Would it work well? If not, why? Thanks.

No reason it shouldn't work, you'll probably end up with something smelling like woolly bees.:)

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Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

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On 4/4/2023 at 7:51 PM, sheree said:

What happens if you only use beeswax and lanolin, ratio 1:3, for leather balm? Would it work well? If not, why? Thanks.

You can do that and it's a good way to avoid using too much lanolin in one sitting and helps in its application as pure lanolin is a gooey blob and doesnt spread as well as when its in a beeswax medium. It will also have a definite sheep smell/odor to it. The beeswax will help eliminate/reduce most of that smell.

5 hours ago, SUP said:

A bit late in this thread, but don't coconut oil, almond oil  etc. get oxidized over time? I have heard they do. 

Everything eventually oxidizes. However, mixing substances together, such as beeswax and or adding vitamin E into the mix, specifically reduces/retards oxidation to the point that there isn't a need to worry about it.

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I just re-read the thread and there's some good info in it (thanks for starting it ScottWolf :specool:). I first started down the "natural ingredients" path when I started shooting black powder muzzleloaders. It is widely accepted that it's a good idea not to use petroleum-based products due to the residue problems with BP. Having said that many swear by Ballistol, which is a German product used widely by their army during WWII. What many don't realise is it's virtually all medicinal-grade mineral oil, with something added (anethole these days) to make it smell nice!

There are as many recipes for patch lubes as there are for leather conditioners!:lol: I have spent many hours searching for the MSDS for both, and it isn't always easy to find out what is in them. Regarding leather conditioners probably the most common/widely used ingredient is medicinal/food grade mineral oil as this blends nicely with waxes to make them "spreadable". This is also apparently considered by some manufacturers to be natural.:rolleyes2: Paraffin wax is also widely used presumably because it is readily available commercially and no doubt is cheaper than using beeswax. As with the mineral oil the wax is basically a highly refined petroleum product. 

Some manufacturers don't list what is in their products in the MSDS because if the products are natural and aren't considered dangerous within the various regulatory guidelines then they're not required to list them. Most of them usually have beeswax, because it's a great marketing tool to say it contains beeswax, but you don't know what is used to make the wax "spreadable". I once made a concoction using beeswax and pure gum turpentine as the solvent (natural, you see) but over time the container developed a black tar-like deposit in it so I haven't used it since. I also made my own tallow from sheep fat (suet) using a slow cooker. That was many years ago and I've still got some, it's stored in a shed that gets bloody hot in summer and very cold in winter and it's still fine. I've found extra virgin olive oil works well as a softening agent when mixed with beeswax and so far haven't found any downside to it. Blending waxes is a fascinating exercise.

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

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Here's the deal. man has been using leather since the stone age. They have been conditioning leather for the same amount of time using all "natural " products. to think that it hasn't been done or tried is just silly for lack of a better term that wont offend folks. 

 But here is something to think about, if you use your new beeswax and olive oil conditioner that hasn't ever been tried :rolleyes: before in the history of man. on leather  you intend to use out doors you better stock up on bug spray!!!!!

Bugs smell stuff, they like food, and you will smell like food to them ! Bees especially are attracted to beeswax for some odd reason, who knew right?

Good luck to all in your endeavors to find out what cave men already knew and what your grandaddy forgot to tell you.

Worked in a prison for 30 years if I aint shiny every time I comment its no big deal, I just don't wave pompoms.

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On 5/17/2023 at 12:40 AM, dikman said:

I just re-read the thread and there's some good info in it (thanks for starting it ScottWolf :specool:).

 Regarding leather conditioners probably the most common/widely used ingredient is medicinal/food grade mineral oil as this blends nicely with waxes to make them "spreadable". This is also apparently considered by some manufacturers to be natural.:rolleyes2: Paraffin wax is also widely used presumably because it is readily available commercially and no doubt is cheaper than using beeswax. As with the mineral oil the wax is basically a highly refined petroleum product. 

 

No Problem, glad you found the information to be helpful.

As to mineral oil or Parafin wax, Liquid Parrafin or any of the other names used for it in other locations, its all the same, a petroleum derived product. Mineral oil itself is not a leather conditioner like Tallow or neatsfoot, etc, it is a barrier, in that it keeps moisture in, which is why its used extensively in women's skin care products, cosmetics, etc. It can be used as a solvent in a product, as it dissolves other ingredients and is also considered a cleaning agent  as it will break down sebum  and cosmetic residue on peoples skin. For leather, its great for sealing moisture in and works best as a finishing product, after the leather has been conditioned,  and it also adds a polish or shine to the leather.

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I decided to re-melt a mix I made up and add some olive oil to soften it a bit (it's pretty stiff in the jar). From memory it's beeswax, neatsfoot oil and tallow. What was interesting was once it was melted there were pieces of "skin", for want of a better term, in the mix. The only thing I can think of is it came from the NFO? Most peculiar.

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

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@Scottwolf  I'm happy to see your leather conditioner recipe and am looking forward to using it. It's similar to a beeswax hand balm I make.  Do you have a recommendation (or recipe?) for a gentle, natural leather cleaner to be used prior to this conditioner for saddle, tack, and riding boot maintenance?  For the most part I can just dust and condition, but sometimes a gentle cleaner is needed. 

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Just made a small batch tonight. . .

20g Bee's Wax, 20g Shea Butter, 15g 100% Neatsfoot Oil, 15g Lanolin, 5g Carnuba Wax, 2g Vitamin E Oil

Added the extra high Vitamin E oil as an antioxidant, although Shea Butter is said to contain a bunch. . .

I don't see a problem with Neatsfoot Oil as it is a natural product derived from shin, and feet bones of cattle, and

has been used for leather preservation, and conditioning, more or less, forever. . .

All the other things are food grade, and absolutely no problem with contacting your skin  (unless you're allergic)

Consistency is of a soft shoe polish,  rubbed it in with my hands  seems to work very well. . . 

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