Inconsistent stitches, leather lifting, loose thread

[JeannieH]

Hi. My machine was sewing fine..minus the fact I noticed a few stitches not looking the same as the rest. Now, I’m getting inconsistent stitching. I changed the needle..rethreaded machine three times..changed bobbin..the stitching has gotten worse.

im using #5 MBT thread on top and bottom..size 18 round point needle, consew 227 is the machine I’m on. No idea what to do now. 

 

[Pintodeluxe]

I'm not familiar with #5 thread, but an online chart compares it to #138 thread size.  If that's the case, your needle is too small for the thread you're using.  You'd need a size 22 or 23 needle for thread that thick.  

Once the needle and thread combo is sorted, you may have to adjust your bobbin tension.  

[Constabulary]

Video is a bit shaky and maybe sewing slower and the cam in fixed position would give us a better view.

My guess - you have a modified center foot and it does not hold down the leather so the needles pulls up the leather when the needle is going up - change the center foot and try again. Top and bottom tension may be an issue too or the adjustment of the regulating spring (or all in combination )hard to tell w/o sitting in front of the machine.

But my best bet is the modified center foot is not holding down the leather well enough - you need one which holds down the leather right side of the needle - if you know what I mean.

Edited September 17, 2020 by Constabulary

[JeannieH]

Ok I will try to see what it does with a different center foot. But I modified that one so I could sew very close to the edge when top stitching my bags closed. If that doesn’t work I will load a better video and see slower for you guys to see.

ive been sewing with this inner foot for a while. Maybe this thinner leather requires me to tweak some things. It’s like a 2-3 ounce chrome upholstery leather. I normally sew 3-5 ounce chrome tanned.

Edited September 17, 2020 by JeannieH

[JeannieH]

1 hour ago, Pintodeluxe said:

I'm not familiar with #5 thread, but an online chart compares it to #138 thread size.  If that's the case, your needle is too small for the thread you're using.  You'd need a size 22 or 23 needle for thread that thick.  

Once the needle and thread combo is sorted, you may have to adjust your bobbin tension.  

Ok I will try a bigger needle as well. Will update shortly.

[RockyAussie]

The centre foot is not holding that thin leather down consistently enough and changing the needle to a leather point (LR) or (TRI) will help but you may need to go up to a size 19 as well. A centre foot that comes down both sides of the needle would be better but that may not work for your application but chances are your application would not need to be that thin and soft either.

[Wizcrafts]

Don't use a round point needle in leather if you can avoid it. The round holes are the wrong configuration for sewing animal skins. You should use either a wedge, chisel, or diamond/triangle shaped needle. As for matching needles and thread sizes, here is a needle and thread chart.

[JeannieH]

Ok thanks guys! I thought I needed to use a round needle for inside seams and a tricky for the top stitching. I will order some tri cut. The only size I have in it is 22. 

3 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

The centre foot is not holding that thin leather down consistently enough and changing the needle to a leather point (LR) or (TRI) will help but you may need to go up to a size 19 as well. A centre foot that comes down both sides of the needle would be better but that may not work for your application but chances are your application would not need to be that thin and soft either.

Yes it appears that is so. I did change to a size 22 R and the problem stopped. I really like my modified foot because I can get my guide very close to the needle to get my top stitching close to the edge like the designer bags are. 

1 hour ago, Wizcrafts said:

Don't use a round point needle in leather if you can avoid it. The round holes are the wrong configuration for sewing animal skins. You should use either a wedge, chisel, or diamond/triangle shaped needle. As for matching needles and thread sizes, here is a needle and thread chart.

Ok I thought I needed the R for bag construction inside seams and the tri it’s for topstitching or leather over 4 ounce. I will order some and try them instead. I think I have a size 22. I will order a 19 or 20.