Members cdschoonie Posted October 15, 2020 Author Members Report Posted October 15, 2020 16 minutes ago, OLESKIVER said: that would be correct. When I was starting out I had someone tell me or read it somewhere that the compound over time deteareates the leather. so personally, I haven't ever used it. I will caution you on the use of the neatsfoot oil. use it sparingly. a littlke goes a long way and you can always add more but you can't take it out. I use it on all my tack and saddles. and my boots, since they are oiled, not polished. hope this helped Absolutely, helps a ton! Thank you very much. Quote
Members TomG Posted October 17, 2020 Members Report Posted October 17, 2020 On 10/13/2020 at 3:08 AM, Handstitched said: G"day, I had a lot of trouble in the early days using oil based dyes on belts, so frustrating . No matter how many coats of sealer I apply, the dye still came through . I now use water based dyes , that have just little bit of alcohol to aid drying. I also use regular water based polyurethane sealers, and hi shine sealers, (some of which are chemical based) . But, no more rub-offs . The belts still come out just as nice HS What sealers do you use? Quote Tom Gregory Legacy Leathercraft www.legacyleathercraft.com www.etsy.com/shop/legacyleathercraft
Members cdschoonie Posted October 18, 2020 Author Members Report Posted October 18, 2020 On 10/11/2020 at 2:48 PM, OLESKIVER said: out of curiosity, why did you use mink oil instead of pure neatsfoot oil? and did you let your project fully dry before putting on finish, oh wait you skipped that part. well, that might be ok. I always put top coat or finish on before I oiled something, but I also only use pure neatsfoot oil. am not that up on some of the new "techniques" you might have to start over, if you didn't tool it you could just get you a piece of black leather and use that and not have to worry about, bleeding or rubbing off. When I started doing this the old adage was " If you screw it up you can always dye it black." of course that was for tooled leather. You mentioned you apply your finish after dyeing, but before you oil. I’m assuming after the Resolene is dry, the leather will still accept oil? Also, how long do I need to let the Resolene dry? A couple of days is what I’ve read other places, as well as watching videos, etc., does that sound about right? Quote
Members TheCyberwolfe Posted October 18, 2020 Members Report Posted October 18, 2020 The method I used on the belt I'm wearing now, after a year with no rub-off or bleeding. Method told to me by an ancient leatherworker at Oregon Leather Company when I was first starting out. 1. Oil it first. It will help the dye penetrate the leather deeper and give you a better color result. Use Neatsfoot oil, in thin coats until it looks even. Let this sit 24 hours in a Goldilocks environment (not too hot, not too cold, or dry, etc.) before you reach for the dye. If there are any dry spots after 24 hours, give it another coat and try again tomorrow. 2. Dye it using Fiebing's Pro Dye (no longer called Pro Oil, just Pro). This is a bit of a misnomer in that it is still an alcohol-based dye, it's the pigment that is oil-based now instead of powder based. This means you won't get the powdery residue like you get from the non-pro dyes like the USMC Black, and you won't wear your elbows out with buffing the project. Go over it with thin coats until you get the color you want (airbrush is a good applicator). If you're using black, no reason you can't dip-dye it for an absolutely dyed-through result. Again, let it dry for at least 24 hours before the next step. 3. Buff the project and check your color finish. If all looks good, go for the top coat. @ScottWolf is right with the Resolene mix ratio at 50/50 and keeping track of your bubbles. Again, an airbrush makes a good applicator, but daubers, rags, and sponges can still get good results if you're patient. Resolene is a good finish for general-use projects, but if you want something a bit tougher I can recommend Fiebing's Saddle-Lac, which comes in an aerosol can. 2 or 3 coats is good enough for rugged outdoor gear like saddles and tack, or biker gear. Be aware, however, that Saddle-Lac is a bit of a "creaky" finish - my cell phone holster makes noise when I adjust it on the belt or move around. The part I always have the most trouble with is the patience. Quote -- I don't suffer from insanity, I enjoy every minute! www.rogueleather.com
Members cdschoonie Posted October 18, 2020 Author Members Report Posted October 18, 2020 My project(s) are rifle butt stock bullet holders for 3 of my rifles. The reason I started this thread, is that I made one a year ago for another rifle. It turned out great for my first project attempt. The only issue I have is that it bleeds a little onto the bullets. The rest of it, surprisingly enough, does not bleed off. When I made it, I only watched 2 YouTube videos for guidance. I used Medium Brown dye, and coated it with Neatsfoot. Had I known about Resolene then, I’d probably never had an issue. So this round, I’m using all of your advice, so I’m feeling confident I won’t have any issue. Again, thank you all for the sound advice! Quote
Members Rahere Posted October 18, 2020 Members Report Posted October 18, 2020 11 hours ago, cdschoonie said: My project(s) are rifle butt stock bullet holders for 3 of my rifles. The reason I started this thread, is that I made one a year ago for another rifle. It turned out great for my first project attempt. The only issue I have is that it bleeds a little onto the bullets. The rest of it, surprisingly enough, does not bleed off. When I made it, I only watched 2 YouTube videos for guidance. I used Medium Brown dye, and coated it with Neatsfoot. Had I known about Resolene then, I’d probably never had an issue. So this round, I’m using all of your advice, so I’m feeling confident I won’t have any issue. Again, thank you all for the sound advice! It may well be that the rounds are lightly coated in gun oil, to care for the notoriously dry and dusty inside of magazines, and so there's less risk of jams in the breech. Quote
Members Handstitched Posted October 19, 2020 Members Report Posted October 19, 2020 On 10/18/2020 at 2:06 AM, TomG said: What sealers do you use? G'Day, This is what I use: https://maclaceleather.com.au/product/seal-shine-1-litre/ https://www.birdsall-leather.com.au/DTC/Top-Coat-Leather-Finish/pd.php HS Quote ' I have a very gweat friend in Wome called Biggus Dickus, He has a wife you know, do you know whats she's called? Incontinentia.......Incontinentia Buttocks '
Members Leather20 Posted October 23, 2020 Members Report Posted October 23, 2020 I have big issues with black water colored dye too. When I put a seal on it (no matter if I've buffed before to not) it always fades out and gets streaky (like some parts fade out so badly it looks light gray) and then rubs off on anything around it. I'm using Fiebing's Black dye (water based) and I normally seal with either Resolene or Fiebing's Leather Finish. Any tips? Would going to an oil dye help this? Quote
Members battlemunky Posted October 23, 2020 Members Report Posted October 23, 2020 On 10/17/2020 at 10:01 PM, TheCyberwolfe said: The part I always have the most trouble with is the patience. This +1000. Patience is a virtue I don't have. One of these days I'm going to actually follow your path and let things dry/cure completely. My stuff generally looks good but it may not look great yet because of my impatience. Quote
Members Rahere Posted October 23, 2020 Members Report Posted October 23, 2020 With all respect to Fiebings and Bigfoot, who has a number of videos on their site, simply tagging the product page Ingredient Disclosure isn't what the Law requires. I used to work with one of the world's top specialists in industrial injuries due to skin reactions, and almost anything will trigger someone. Product safety sheets are commonplace in industry, we should encourage them here. It would also facilitate identifying the exact issue, because the following comes from a generalised angle. Having watched the reactions, which are naturally pragmatic, I come back to a core baseline in fibre dyeing. The original, mediaeval norm involved two ingedients, a colour, and a fixant, usually called a mordant, which holds the colour to the fibre - so-called because it was thought to bite into the fibre.. When I talk about fibre, it's anything, organic or inorganic, we want to colour. Most fibres are pretty good at keeping themselves clean, so a dye, straight-up, isn't always going to stay, which is the issue here. The usual preparation included extensive cleaning, often using natural ammonium (I'll spare you the details) as well as degreasers. That was followed by soaking in the mordant (which may have been where tanning started, as tannins are often used), then dying, and finally fixing with the mordant again. Quite a faff, so things have been simplified. Without knowing exactly what's in your dye, an educated guess suggests a certain likelihood of an azo dye which binds to leather in a cationic ion exchange reaction. This simplifies the issue, because it suggests one of two possibilities: too much dye, or insufficient cleaning. I note that the Fiebings pages emphasise use of their cleaner product first, which hasn't been mentioned. The question of too much dye suggests it might be preferable to be sparing on the first dye, and come back with more if the need arises. We all know that a form of surface tension capilliary action spreads the dye quite efficiently (sometimes too much so if you're trying to keep it to an area), so perhaps we should allow the leather to dictate. At the same time, I'm not going to exclude other additives such as a resin coating, which could make repeat dyeing problematic. For this reason, testing on scrap is probably wise. Quote
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