Black Water-based Dye

[Leather20]

When I use black water-based dye and then put a seal on it (no matter if I've buffed before the seal or not) it always fades out and gets streaky (like some parts fade out so badly it looks light gray) and then rubs off on anything around it. I'm using Fiebing's Black dye (water based) and I normally seal with either Resolene or Fiebing's Leather Finish, and once in a while I use Fiebing's Leather Balm With Atom Wax. Any tips? Would going to an oil dye help this?

[Alaisiagae]

How long do you wait after dyeing and before applying the finish? You probably want to wait at least an hour at the minimum. How many coats of dye do you use? More coats will make the piece darker and help minimize any pull up from the finish. How do you apply the finish, e.g. with a sponge? I use a small, slightly damp piece of sponge for Super Shene (it's akin to Resolene).

Applying the finish too heavily can cause streaking. Have you tried multiple light coats of finish?

Edited November 27, 2020 by Alaisiagae

[Leather20]

12 hours ago, Alaisiagae said:

How long do you wait after dyeing and before applying the finish? You probably want to wait at least an hour at the minimum. How many coats of dye do you use? More coats will make the piece darker and help minimize any pull up from the finish. How do you apply the finish, e.g. with a sponge? I use a small, slightly damp piece of sponge for Super Shene (it's akin to Resolene).

Applying the finish too heavily can cause streaking. Have you tried multiple light coats of finish?

I've waited up to 24 hours before applying the finish. The absolute minumum I'll wait is 1 hour. I normally do at least 2 coats of dye to ensure I have an even dye although with my black I will almost always do 3-4 coats. For applying the finish I will use a small slightly damp sponge. I've tried painting the finish on with a soft paint brush and that will sometimes reduce the streaking. I've also tried spraying the finish on, but that doesn't seem to work very well (maybe if i could use a delivery system similer to an air brush it would work better but that is out of my budget right now).

I'm not sure how heavily I apply the finish, I try not to over load the sponge because I know that makes the finish streak. Normally i apply a layer of finish, let it dry for a little bit, buff, and then apply another coat of finish.

[Alaisiagae]

It sounds like you're doing everything right (at least, to me), so I'm not sure what to say. I made a black piece using water-based Eco-flo. I put on 3 coats of dye. When I put on the finish, I saw a lot of bleed off onto the finishing sponge and I worried it would lighten the black. But, in the end, the black was still deep but now it was shiny and so it maybe looked a little lighter because of that. So, maybe there is an element of optical illusion in there due to the light reflection of the finish? I'm just thinking out loud.

[Handstitched]

G'Day, Although I've never tried Fiebings black dye before , I use Birdsall leather dye and finished off with  ' Top Coat' sealer  . The dye is water based with a little bit of alcohol to aid drying.  I usually put 2 coats on, or one good liberal coat. But I have noticed  on some leathers , the dye doesn't always soak in straight away. 

I use a sheep skin off-cut,  trimmed into a swab.  I let the sealer dry, a quick buff with a cloth, and then I use black  boot polish ,( Kiwi Parade Shine), only on the grain side,   polish with a shoe brush, and finish off with a cloth. Comes up a treat  

HS 

[chiefjason]

Try the pro oil dye.  I have had no issues since switching to it years ago.  

[johnv474]

Agreed.  I dislike water-based dyes but have never had a problem once I switched to Fiebing’s Pro dye.

[Lobo]

The water-based dyes (marketed by Fiebings and Tandy) offer two qualities that some users want:

1. they are relatively inexpensive

2. they are non-flammable (institutional and school uses).

These dyes are not very durable, largely because they do not penetrate well. This is the primary reason that most manufacturers of leather goods use other dyes and processes.

[Bigfoote]

Fiebings pro dye solved all these problems for me. The USMC black bleeds a lot so stay away from it.

[Handstitched]

I tried using oil based dyes in the early days ( Raven Oil) , I had nothing but  trouble with dye on belts coming out onto clothing , no matter how many coats of sealer I put on, it still bled through .  Thats why I now use water based dyes ( with a bit of alcohol for drying) , I've had no trouble since , and I stick with it. Can't remember the last time I used a oil based dye.  

 

HS