Dwolf01 Report post Posted January 31, 2021 (edited) Hi there! First, thank you to all of the people who regularly post and share their knowledge and experience. This is a great resource. I am new to leather working and preparing to buy my first machine. I mostly make leather wallets, clutches/bags/purses and some watch bands. I am over the poor stitch quality of a domestic machine ruining my projects. I have the opportunity to buy a Juki 562 for about $700 (but think I would need to put a servo in it) or a used Juki 1508ns. Also looking at the consew 206. I am apprehensive to spend well over $1000 having never used an industrial machine. Any advice? I work on small projects so I don’t know how concerned I should be about the small bobbin on the 562. Thanks in advance! Edited January 31, 2021 by Northmount Fixed title but > buy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northmount Report post Posted January 31, 2021 @Dwolf01 Moved your post to leather sewing machines. You should also look at the pinned posts in this forum. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwolf01 Report post Posted January 31, 2021 Thank you. I am sorry I didn’t see the topic. I also couldn’t figure out how to delete one of me previous posts. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northmount Report post Posted January 31, 2021 46 minutes ago, Dwolf01 said: I also couldn’t figure out how to delete one of me previous posts Members can't delete posts. You can edit them, but the time window for editing is limited. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tejas Report post Posted January 31, 2021 A difference between some machines you're thinking of is top- vs bottom-load bobbins -- the Consew machine is bottom-load. I've used both top- and bottom-load machines. Here is what I've learned or read elsewhere: Vertical Axis (aka: top-load or drop-in) bobbin machines are more likely to jam than Horizontal Axis (aka: bottom-load) bobbin machines. Sewers seem to prefer the type of machine they learned on. My preference is top-load, but then I first started on a top-load machine Advantages and disadvantages of top- versus bottom-load seem to be: Top-load: • Advantages: - Can see how much thread is left on the bobbin without removing the bobbin - Can see and change bobbin without tilting back machine • Disadvantages: - Must hold thread when stating sewing to avoid jams - Must remove fabric to change bobbin Bottom-load: • Advantages: - More tolerant to lack of holding thread when starting sewing, which means that bobbin-wrap jams are less likely - Can change bobbin and resume sewing without removing fabric, especially useful when binding (sewing fabric advantage) • Disadvantages: - Cannot easily see how much thread is left on the bobbin - Must learn to load bobbin by feel or tilt machine back to see and load • Other: - Uses a bobbin case, and this might be an advantage if bobbin tension is changed frequently and have separate bobbin cases set for each tension. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DonInReno Report post Posted February 1, 2021 Welcome! Don’t feel like you have to rush into anything - it sounds like your price range is high enough to get into a used but well functioning machine, and the area of the country you are in is full of used flat bed machines. I did a quick search on FB marketplace and Craigslist and you’re actually lucky to have such a large selection to choose from. Keep in mind the machines you are seeing for sale are most likely at market price or above - the below average price machines don’t stick around long, but they will pop up. Is that 562 the one for sale in Waterford? It seems like the same machine listed in Kent, but with different pictures. When I see a machine for the first time, paint is the first giveaway of what kind of life it led. Machines used in high volume production will have a lot of missing paint or have been repainted at least once and maybe multiple times. That Juki is missing some paint, but the small factory sticker on the back side is still in place so it’s most likely not repainted - usually only the main juki sticker is replaced on a repaint. The small wear pattern in the middle of the handwheel looks like the operator either palmed nippers while sewing, or had a ring on one of their fingers - not a lot of wear otherwise which is good. The leather belt is odd - but it’s pretty new so that was probably added to look good because it was on hand. For $700 you should be able to find a juki in this condition that already has a servo motor. $500 without a servo is about right. For $1000 it should have little missing paint, sew well, have a servo and a decent table - essentially newish. In general avoid repainted machines. Avoid a machine that can’t be tested under power. Take a strong flashlight and look it over closely for any cracks or damaged parts. Industrials are heavy - dropping one can crack the bed and bend all sorts of things. Avoid a machine with deep grooves worn into the thread path. As for bobbin size, that wouldn’t be worth worrying about if you’re doing small things. For a first industrial I also wouldn’t worry about top load vs side load bobbins. Oh...and watch out for industrials that lack a reverse. In the excitement of the moment more than one person has overlooked the difference between a lu-562 and lu-563 and come home only to be surprised there’s no reverse! Lol Buy one at or below market price and you can use it for years and still be able to sell it for the purchase price - a free machine. Now that’s a good deal! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KennethLee Report post Posted February 1, 2021 On 1/30/2021 at 9:00 PM, Dwolf01 said: Hi there! First, thank you to all of the people who regularly post and share their knowledge and experience. This is a great resource. I am new to leather working and preparing to buy my first machine. I mostly make leather wallets, clutches/bags/purses and some watch bands. I am over the poor stitch quality of a domestic machine ruining my projects. I have the opportunity to buy a Juki 562 for about $700 (but think I would need to put a servo in it) or a used Juki 1508ns. Also looking at the consew 206. I am apprehensive to spend well over $1000 having never used an industrial machine. Any advice? I work on small projects so I don’t know how concerned I should be about the small bobbin on the 562. Thanks in advance! COBRA CLASS 26 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kgg Report post Posted February 1, 2021 The first thing I would do is figure out what you are going to sew 90 percent of the time. That will determine what type of machine that would probably suite your need best, flatbed or cylinder bed. If it is going to be bags then go for a cylinder bed machine, if it is going to be mostly wallets get a flatbed. If it is going to be a 50/50 mix go with either two machines (a flatbed and a cylinder bed) or get a cylinder bed with a flatbed attachment to start. I would personally try to purchase a machine as current as possible to help reduce repairs (Juki 562's are getting a little long in the tooth). The thickness of the item being sewn will also play a major part in your decision. For flatbeds, the Juki 1541 likes heavy thick items and needs to be dumbed down for lighter thinner items where as a Juki 1181n likes lighter thinner items. A Juki 1508 is even more suited for heavier items then a Juki 1541. For cylinder bed machines, the class 335 's machines are suited more for lighter thinner items, the class 341's are more for heavier thicker items (Juki 341 or Juki 1341) and of course the class 441 are made for the really heavy thick stuff (Juki 441). As far as clones there are a wide variety to choose from in all the classes some are really good some not so much. Buy once, Cry once kgg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwolf01 Report post Posted February 2, 2021 On 1/31/2021 at 5:33 PM, Tejas said: A difference between some machines you're thinking of is top- vs bottom-load bobbins -- the Consew machine is bottom-load. I've used both top- and bottom-load machines. Here is what I've learned or read elsewhere: Vertical Axis (aka: top-load or drop-in) bobbin machines are more likely to jam than Horizontal Axis (aka: bottom-load) bobbin machines. Sewers seem to prefer the type of machine they learned on. My preference is top-load, but then I first started on a top-load machine Advantages and disadvantages of top- versus bottom-load seem to be: Top-load: • Advantages: - Can see how much thread is left on the bobbin without removing the bobbin - Can see and change bobbin without tilting back machine • Disadvantages: - Must hold thread when stating sewing to avoid jams - Must remove fabric to change bobbin Bottom-load: • Advantages: - More tolerant to lack of holding thread when starting sewing, which means that bobbin-wrap jams are less likely - Can change bobbin and resume sewing without removing fabric, especially useful when binding (sewing fabric advantage) • Disadvantages: - Cannot easily see how much thread is left on the bobbin - Must learn to load bobbin by feel or tilt machine back to see and load • Other: - Uses a bobbin case, and this might be an advantage if bobbin tension is changed frequently and have separate bobbin cases set for each tension. You guys are all awesome!!! Every bit of information I can collect is very valuable and highly appreciated! Thank you for your time! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
