Recommend a good leather?

[Loudcherokee]

Hello all, 

So I'm at a point in my leathercraft journey where I would like to move up from the cheaper budget leathers and scrap packs and try to make a few things out of some nicer leather.

Thing is, im not sure what I want to work with. I know I want something that looks nice, ages well, will show a nice patina, and that i can finish the edges on. I'd like to try something that has a nice grain to it, and also maybe something that has a nice sheen to it. Not like patent leather obviously, but something that isn't dull. Maybe a glazed something? 

What is a good leather to try that isn't going to break the bank, will be eye catching, and will not bring me to tears if I mess up a cut or stitch line? 

I'm thinking of possibly some horween Essex or maybe horween Dublin. Chromexcel looks nice as well. I'd like something that is somewhat firm but still supple, especially for journals where I like a 5/6 ounce so it has some body. Wallets 3/4 ounce seems to work well with my designs. 

I'd love to eventually work with shell cordovan but that is WAAAAAAAY down the road. But shell has the kind of finish I'm currently attracted to. Kinda glossy but not reflective. If that makes sense. 

LC

[Tugadude]

One of the nice things about Springfield Leather Co. is they sell many leathers by the square foot.  That way you can try various leathers without breaking the bank and investing in a shoulder or side only to find you don't like it.

You need to tell us what sorts of projects you want to make.  Thickness comes into play too.  

Regarding Horween, they are top notch as is Wickett & Craig and  Hermann Oak.  There are others that might be appropriate, but it depends on the project.

There are also some European tanneries that provide amazing product.

[Loudcherokee]

10 minutes ago, Tugadude said:

One of the nice things about Springfield Leather Co. is they sell many leathers by the square foot.  That way you can try various leathers without breaking the bank and investing in a shoulder or side only to find you don't like it.

You need to tell us what sorts of projects you want to make.  Thickness comes into play too.  

Regarding Horween, they are top notch as is Wickett & Craig and  Hermann Oak.  There are others that might be appropriate, but it depends on the project.

There are also some European tanneries that provide amazing product.

Right now as far as projects go, im really liking the journals im making. This one was made from one of springfields $30 oil tan sides, which is a great deal but I have no way of identifying the leather and they said they can't tell me what it is either. 

As far as thickness, I believe this is a 5/6 ounce and that works really well for these journals that are 8x5 in size. 

I would just like a leather that appears more upscale or finished.

LC

[Tugadude]

That is a very attractive journal cover!  As far as "upscale", you might try a textured leather.  Springfield Leather Co. has a Saffiano leather they are selling in bundles.  You can't choose the colors I suppose, but it is some really nice stuff.  You can find it in other places too, or at least very similar leathers.  I bought some small remnants of a textured leather and made some small items with it.  I found that the textured leather, while beautiful, requires a great deal of precision in your stitching, otherwise it looks bad.  I don't know if it amplifies deviations or what, but once I learned that and acted accordingly it was great.

[Loudcherokee]

4 hours ago, Tugadude said:

That is a very attractive journal cover!  As far as "upscale", you might try a textured leather.  Springfield Leather Co. has a Saffiano leather they are selling in bundles.  You can't choose the colors I suppose, but it is some really nice stuff.  You can find it in other places too, or at least very similar leathers.  I bought some small remnants of a textured leather and made some small items with it.  I found that the textured leather, while beautiful, requires a great deal of precision in your stitching, otherwise it looks bad.  I don't know if it amplifies deviations or what, but once I learned that and acted accordingly it was great.

That saffiano looks nice and may work out for a bag project I have in mind as well. I may have to get a bundle next time I place a springfield order. Im not sure it would be stiff enough for the journals though. I suppose I could make the interior a veg tan 4/5 ounce. 

I really like the look of some of the bridal leathers but they are 10-12 ounce and I'm not sure if it would be an appropriate kind of leather for my intentions, or if I can get it split down to 5/6 ounce, and if it would be wise to do so. They have that sheen that I like. Weaver has some English bridal in Havana that is absolutely gorgeous but its $320 a side for 10/12 ounce. 

ETA: added a picture. This is the look and sheen im wanting, but in a pull up. Im not sure something like that even exists. 

LC

Edited February 14, 2021 by Loudcherokee

[mike02130]

https://www.rmleathersupply.com/collections/view-all-leather

[sbrownn]

The Chahin Bridle leather from American Leather Direct is very nice.  It comes in a lot of colors and weights and instead of being split only, the lighter weights are pasted on the back.  It holds stamping well and when wetted for shaping absorbs moisture well and doesn't change color.

[Loudcherokee]

46 minutes ago, mike02130 said:

https://www.rmleathersupply.com/collections/view-all-leather

This stuff is beautiful! 

 

LC

[Loudcherokee]

27 minutes ago, sbrownn said:

The Chahin Bridle leather from American Leather Direct is very nice.  It comes in a lot of colors and weights and instead of being split only, the lighter weights are pasted on the back.  It holds stamping well and when wetted for shaping absorbs moisture well and doesn't change color.

Thanks for the referral! I saved that website. They have some good looking leather also. 

LC

[Brigg]

I agree with the RM Leather Supply recommendation. I would also look at https://districtleathersupply.com/ They sell really nice Italian veg tan leathers by the square foot. The benefit of the District Leather Supply is they offer leathers in A and B grades so if you are curious about a leather you can buy the B grade piece (still really nice) for a cheaper price and experiment with it...not sure if they have really shiny leathers though.

RM leather sell Museum calf which you might like but it is a chrome tan.

[JustPete]

Acadia Leather https://www.acadialeather.com/ has some nice options too, at a sometimes far more affordable price- especially if you take advantage of their frequent sales. They don't cut sides down, though last I knew, so it's all or nothing- but the shipping is free in the U.S.! The Harvest line has a nice oily feel to it with a lot of pull-up, but still a harder waxier finish, as you mentioned you like

[YinTx]

One option is to go direct to Wickett and Craig leather, get some bridle leather bellies.  Really low price (like, $7-10 a piece), no worries if you mess up some, not bad leather.  Has a sheen that you are looking for, will burnish on the edges like you mention, you can get several thicknesses to address what you are making (ask them to split it for you).  Prices are much lower direct from the tanner, and you can buy one at a time if you like.  When you find a color and finish you like, you can buy a side from their overstock section often at very low prices (like $150-175 per side).   Just an option.  Prices probably going to change, and I have nothing to do with W&C other than I like their leather for some of my projects!

YinTx

[Hardrada]

On 2/14/2021 at 2:50 PM, Loudcherokee said:

This stuff is beautiful! 

 

LC

Yes, it is. It's great to work with, skives very nice, and burnishes very well. Just make sure your nails are well-clipped because it marks easily.

Excellent for small projects:

 

Chromexcel is a bit more—well, I'll just say 'different'. I'd 'practice' on the Badalassi first.

[Loudcherokee]

10 hours ago, Hardrada said:

Yes, it is. It's great to work with, skives very nice, and burnishes very well. Just make sure your nails are well-clipped because it marks easily.

Excellent for small projects:

 

Chromexcel is a bit more—well, I'll just say 'different'. I'd 'practice' on the Badalassi first.

I may end up going with this. Im torn between the cognac and olmo colors. At $209 for a full hide I don't want to pick something that I will be unhappy with. 

Do you think I would be able to recoup the cost of the hide by selling some journals and wallets? Not looking to get rich or anything but at least would like to come out even. 

LC

[Loudcherokee]

So I went with the badalassi in Olmo. I received it today. 

This is my first go round with any "premium" leather. My piece is far more distressed than what I was expecting. Is there a conditioner I can use or a way to massage some of the wrinkles and marks out of it? 

LC

[Hardrada]

On 2/18/2021 at 11:47 AM, Loudcherokee said:

Do you think I would be able to recoup the cost of the hide by selling some journals and wallets? Not looking to get rich or anything but at least would like to come out even.

If they're carefully crafted and finished, I don't see why not. That's the whole point. Even as a hobbyist: your manufactured goods have to, at the very least, pay for the materials, tools, and supplies. Of course, one must strive to bring in more than just that. You should look to get rich, even if that doesn't quite happen.

[Hardrada]

9 hours ago, Loudcherokee said:

So I went with the badalassi in Olmo. I received it today. 

This is my first go round with any "premium" leather. My piece is far more distressed than what I was expecting. Is there a conditioner I can use or a way to massage some of the wrinkles and marks out of it? 

LC

That's some beautiful leather you got there!

That's the colour I originally wanted to get, but the customers wanted different for their pipe pouches: one wanted the walnut you saw above, and the other one wanted dark brown. Ah, well.

Barring more expert advice from other members, I would leave the leather as it is, and only do the conditioning on the finished goods, as part of the finish. My pieces also looked a bit matte and even dull when I got them, but the sheen you see on the finished items was the result of Fiebing's Leather Balm with Atom Wax as the final step in making them.

If you don't have one yet, you should have a horse hair brush to brush the leather with, when you get the whole hide, and when you finish buffing the finish on the completed products.

Edited February 26, 2021 by Hardrada

[tsunkasapa]

Try rubbing with a soft cloth in a corner. Friction will sometimes "erase" the pull up. Or use a hair dryer. It is the heat that does it. But try in an out of the way spot. If it works then you do it on your project AFTER you are done, because you will create more of that as you work it. And that is why I don't use any pull up leathers for my projects. I do not find the effect attractive at all. YMMV

 

Edited February 26, 2021 by tsunkasapa

[Loudcherokee]

10 hours ago, Hardrada said:

That's some beautiful leather you got there!

That's the colour I originally wanted to get, but the customers wanted different for their pipe pouches: one wanted the walnut you saw above, and the other one wanted dark brown. Ah, well.

Barring more expert advice from other members, I would leave the leather as it is, and only do the conditioning on the finished goods, as part of the finish. My pieces also looked a bit matte and even dull when I got them, but the sheen you see on the finished items was the result of Fiebing's Leather Balm with Atom Wax as the final step in making them.

If you don't have one yet, you should have a horse hair brush to brush the leather with, when you get the whole hide, and when you finish buffing the finish on the completed products.

I just ordered some fiebings leather balm with atom wax and a pair of horsehair brushes. I currently only have fiebings carnauba creme and some Blackrock on hand. Love the Blackrock for my boots but haven't used it on any of my projects. What do you use to apply the balm? I have lots of soft microfiber from my car detailing hobby I can convert over. 

47 minutes ago, tsunkasapa said:

Try rubbing with a soft cloth in a corner. Friction will sometimes "erase" the pull up. Or use a hair dryer. It is the heat that does it. But try in an out of the way spot. If it works then you do it on your project AFTER you are done, because you will create more of that as you work it. And that is why I don't use any pull up leathers for my projects. I do not find the effect attractive at all. YMMV

 

I tried to rub it a little with my finger, which has worked on some of my oil tan pull up, but didn't work here. I'll get a cloth and try the hair dryer trick too. I normally like the pull up effect, but as received, this looks like its all been pulled up already! I would rather the pull up and character be infused into the finished product, rather than starting off already worn looking. 

LC

[Hardrada]

7 hours ago, tsunkasapa said:

And that is why I don't use any pull up leathers for my projects. I do not find the effect attractive at all. YMMV

Many people seem to love it, though.

I'm not crazy about it, either. Personally, I prefer a uniform look; however, one plus I've found for the pull-up is that it can minimise the visibility of lesser marks or scratches on the leather: just rub it a bit with your finger or bend it and unbend it and voila, the mark is hidden.

[Hardrada]

6 hours ago, Loudcherokee said:

What do you use to apply the balm?

Shop towel.

I tear a small piece off a sheet, fold it to a width narrow enough to dip it into the bottle and dip it only so far as to get the end moist with the solution; then apply over the project quickly and thoroughly with a light touch, making sure no bubbles form, and if they do I quickly pass the towel over them to eliminate them; I wipe off the excess liquid with the dry end of the folded piece of towel. Once the solution has seeped into the leather and dried on the surface (less than a minute if you don't over apply), I buff to a shine with a piece of linen (cut off from an old pillow case). After buffing with the cloth, I buff once more with the horse hair brush. That's it!

Edited February 26, 2021 by Hardrada