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Acadia Leather https://www.acadialeather.com/ has some nice options too, at a sometimes far more affordable price- especially if you take advantage of their frequent sales. They don't cut sides down, though last I knew, so it's all or nothing- but the shipping is free in the U.S.! The Harvest line has a nice oily feel to it with a lot of pull-up, but still a harder waxier finish, as you mentioned you like

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One option is to go direct to Wickett and Craig leather, get some bridle leather bellies.  Really low price (like, $7-10 a piece), no worries if you mess up some, not bad leather.  Has a sheen that you are looking for, will burnish on the edges like you mention, you can get several thicknesses to address what you are making (ask them to split it for you).  Prices are much lower direct from the tanner, and you can buy one at a time if you like.  When you find a color and finish you like, you can buy a side from their overstock section often at very low prices (like $150-175 per side).   Just an option.  Prices probably going to change, and I have nothing to do with W&C other than I like their leather for some of my projects!

YinTx

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Posted
On 2/14/2021 at 2:50 PM, Loudcherokee said:

This stuff is beautiful! 

 

LC

Screenshot_20210214-155002_Chrome.jpg

Yes, it is. It's great to work with, skives very nice, and burnishes very well. Just make sure your nails are well-clipped because it marks easily.

Excellent for small projects:

1303981372_PipePouch1.thumb.jpg.00e61969ca12542a3cefa7fe85b2c0b3.jpg

 

Chromexcel is a bit more—well, I'll just say 'different'. I'd 'practice' on the Badalassi first.

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10 hours ago, Hardrada said:

Yes, it is. It's great to work with, skives very nice, and burnishes very well. Just make sure your nails are well-clipped because it marks easily.

Excellent for small projects:

1303981372_PipePouch1.thumb.jpg.00e61969ca12542a3cefa7fe85b2c0b3.jpg

 

Chromexcel is a bit more—well, I'll just say 'different'. I'd 'practice' on the Badalassi first.

I may end up going with this. Im torn between the cognac and olmo colors. At $209 for a full hide I don't want to pick something that I will be unhappy with. 

Do you think I would be able to recoup the cost of the hide by selling some journals and wallets? Not looking to get rich or anything but at least would like to come out even. 

LC

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So I went with the badalassi in Olmo. I received it today. 

This is my first go round with any "premium" leather. My piece is far more distressed than what I was expecting. Is there a conditioner I can use or a way to massage some of the wrinkles and marks out of it? 

LC

20210225_141140.jpg

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Posted
On 2/18/2021 at 11:47 AM, Loudcherokee said:

Do you think I would be able to recoup the cost of the hide by selling some journals and wallets? Not looking to get rich or anything but at least would like to come out even.

If they're carefully crafted and finished, I don't see why not. That's the whole point. Even as a hobbyist: your manufactured goods have to, at the very least, pay for the materials, tools, and supplies. Of course, one must strive to bring in more than just that. You should look to get rich, even if that doesn't quite happen.

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Posted (edited)
9 hours ago, Loudcherokee said:

So I went with the badalassi in Olmo. I received it today. 

This is my first go round with any "premium" leather. My piece is far more distressed than what I was expecting. Is there a conditioner I can use or a way to massage some of the wrinkles and marks out of it? 

LC

20210225_141140.jpg

That's some beautiful leather you got there!

That's the colour I originally wanted to get, but the customers wanted different for their pipe pouches: one wanted the walnut you saw above, and the other one wanted dark brown. Ah, well.

Barring more expert advice from other members, I would leave the leather as it is, and only do the conditioning on the finished goods, as part of the finish. My pieces also looked a bit matte and even dull when I got them, but the sheen you see on the finished items was the result of Fiebing's Leather Balm with Atom Wax as the final step in making them.

If you don't have one yet, you should have a horse hair brush to brush the leather with, when you get the whole hide, and when you finish buffing the finish on the completed products.

Edited by Hardrada
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Posted (edited)

Try rubbing with a soft cloth in a corner. Friction will sometimes "erase" the pull up. Or use a hair dryer. It is the heat that does it. But try in an out of the way spot. If it works then you do it on your project AFTER you are done, because you will create more of that as you work it. And that is why I don't use any pull up leathers for my projects. I do not find the effect attractive at all. YMMV

 

Edited by tsunkasapa

Hoka Hey! Today, tomorrow, next week, what does it matter?

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Posted
10 hours ago, Hardrada said:

That's some beautiful leather you got there!

That's the colour I originally wanted to get, but the customers wanted different for their pipe pouches: one wanted the walnut you saw above, and the other one wanted dark brown. Ah, well.

Barring more expert advice from other members, I would leave the leather as it is, and only do the conditioning on the finished goods, as part of the finish. My pieces also looked a bit matte and even dull when I got them, but the sheen you see on the finished items was the result of Fiebing's Leather Balm with Atom Wax as the final step in making them.

If you don't have one yet, you should have a horse hair brush to brush the leather with, when you get the whole hide, and when you finish buffing the finish on the completed products.

I just ordered some fiebings leather balm with atom wax and a pair of horsehair brushes. I currently only have fiebings carnauba creme and some Blackrock on hand. Love the Blackrock for my boots but haven't used it on any of my projects. What do you use to apply the balm? I have lots of soft microfiber from my car detailing hobby I can convert over. 

47 minutes ago, tsunkasapa said:

Try rubbing with a soft cloth in a corner. Friction will sometimes "erase" the pull up. Or use a hair dryer. It is the heat that does it. But try in an out of the way spot. If it works then you do it on your project AFTER you are done, because you will create more of that as you work it. And that is why I don't use any pull up leathers for my projects. I do not find the effect attractive at all. YMMV

 

I tried to rub it a little with my finger, which has worked on some of my oil tan pull up, but didn't work here. I'll get a cloth and try the hair dryer trick too. I normally like the pull up effect, but as received, this looks like its all been pulled up already! I would rather the pull up and character be infused into the finished product, rather than starting off already worn looking. 

LC

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Posted
7 hours ago, tsunkasapa said:

And that is why I don't use any pull up leathers for my projects. I do not find the effect attractive at all. YMMV

Many people seem to love it, though. :wacko:

I'm not crazy about it, either. Personally, I prefer a uniform look; however, one plus I've found for the pull-up is that it can minimise the visibility of lesser marks or scratches on the leather: just rub it a bit with your finger or bend it and unbend it and voila, the mark is hidden.

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