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Posted (edited)

If the check spring is broken, you can replace the entire tension unit. They’re readily available online or from our resident vendors. I recommend getting an original Seiko tension unit (or the Juki LU-562 tension unit, which should also fit your machine.) The super cheap Chinese versions on Ebay are not worth bothering with in my opinion (I ordered a few and decided not to use them).

 

Edited by Uwe

Uwe (pronounced "OOH-vuh" )

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Posted
17 hours ago, Uwe said:

@MtlBiker The part about going around the little pin is not quite right. Some YouTube video started this years ago and it’s being repeated all over the place ever since. I’ve not seen a single manufacturer manual that shows the thread path going around the pin. The pin is simply there to keep the tension discs from spinning. 

Geez, so I've been doing it wrong ever since I bought my 206RB-5 a few months ago.  And it was the DEALER (Eastern Canada distributor for Consew) who actually showed me and told me that the thread needed to go around that little pin.  And as far as I can tell, it's been working just fine that way.  (I had absolutely no experience with industrial machines at that point, nor really much general sewing experience.)  I guess I'll have to try without wrapping the thread around that pin.

 

 

Current machines: Janome HD3000 and Skyline S5, Consew 206RB-5, Singer Profinish serger, Techsew 2750 PRO, Sailrite LSZ-1 Premium, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

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Posted


 Could you please suggest a servo motor that will work well with the Seiko stw 8 please. 

Posted

Just about any servo motor will work with your machine. There’s dozens of topics about motors on this forum. Don’t be afraid to start a new topic for a new question, it keeps the topics targeted and easier to navigate.

One popular choice for servo motors is the “family sew” style motor with a small dial to adjust speed. It’s cheap and adequate. It’s available under various brands and model names from vendors on this forum and online (e.g. Consew Premier SM550, Family Sew FS550s, etc.) Available in many places, including here: https://www.tolindsewmach.com/motors.html

One of my personal favorites is this motor: https://store.keysew.com/sp-1100-npfl

Or pick a vendor from the ads in the header.

Please start a new topic if you have more questions about any particular motor. 

Uwe (pronounced "OOH-vuh" )

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Posted

Thanks to everyone who responded.

Posted
20 hours ago, Uwe said:

@MtlBiker The part about going around the little pin is not quite right. Some YouTube video started this years ago and it’s being repeated all over the place ever since. I’ve not seen a single manufacturer manual that shows the thread path going around the pin. The pin is simply there to keep the tension discs from spinning. 

Uwe, I respect your vastly greater experience and knowledge than mine, but I really wonder about what you said regarding that pin.  You did say that there's wrong information being repeated all over the place and that's probably true.  But as I said, it was the Consew dealer who showed me how to thread my machine and I would expect that he knows how.  Plus I just checked a couple of Youtube videos about theading the 206RB and they also show and say to wrap the thread over that pin.  Here's one of the videos.

If you really think that shouldn't be done, I'll give it a test when I get home after work tonight.  I'd just hate to have to readjust all the tensions again since I've got everything running so well now.

Current machines: Janome HD3000 and Skyline S5, Consew 206RB-5, Singer Profinish serger, Techsew 2750 PRO, Sailrite LSZ-1 Premium, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

Posted (edited)
9 hours ago, MtlBiker said:

Plus I just checked a couple of Youtube videos about theading the 206RB and they also show and say to wrap the thread over that pin.  Here's one of the videos.

This is the threading description from the Consew manual for the 206rb (rebranded Seiko) It makes no mention of passing thread over the pin.   Neither do a number of Singer manuals for machines that use the same tensioning setup.   Technically Uwe is correct and this is somewhat of a myth passed on, often with no idea why.

However, with many half truths there is probably a sliver of truth to it.  A fellow working in a garment factory once said they treated the factory recommended thread path as a starting point, and deviated from it when needed to increase tension.  Passing over the pin will definitely increase tension.    Maybe this allows less pressure on the tension disks and slightly longer time between disk changes. 

I see nothing wrong with the practice, the extra step just isn’t necessary, and it won’t make the machine sew better.

 

AD5513CE-73C5-4EE3-BAA1-2E110B644886.jpeg

Edited by DonInReno
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Posted

Constabulary was nice enough to post a utube for me in feb. on how to thread a Consew 225. I can’t seem to copy and paste the link but it is in the thread “maxing out Consew 225”. Might help.

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Posted

Here’s what happens when the thread goes around the pin!  This is what’s on the 206RB-1 I just bought. Don’t know how long it takes, but it will wear.

6BDEBA57-22AE-48D8-9C7E-FA832F25208E.jpeg.a57390bbf04487db158408f2eb21a446.jpeg

Posted

The pin is there to keep the tension discs located and stop them moving around with the thread going through. If the tension discs were allowed to rotate then it is possible depending on the given set up that the tension applied could become erratic or the thread could be more likely to work its way out of the discs. Long and short ....the thread does not go over that pin.

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