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I have a used 211G156 I bought from an upholsterer. Timing was off (would not pick up bobbin thread) Had it repaired not once but now twice. Works well in repair shop but when it gets to my shop...sews a few stitches and then not picking up bobbin thread again. 

Help please.  Driving me nuts.

 

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Check the thread path make sure needle is insert correctly and is threaded from left to right. Make sure you pulled the thread over the little hook in the tension unit disc. Make sure check spring is properly adjusted.

I hope you have a manual for your machine. If not there is a mechanics handbook for the 211 - download it, print it can´t be wrong to have it near your machine:

https://www.manualslib.de/download/89333/Singer-211G-165.html

 

 

Edited by Constabulary

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Thanks very much for your speedy answer. I have checked and re-checked all that you have mentioned. I also read that I should probably change out the clutch motor for a servo motor. I don't need the speed of the current motor.

 

Thanks again!

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1 hour ago, William Greene said:

Thanks very much for your speedy answer. I have checked and re-checked all that you have mentioned. I also read that I should probably change out the clutch motor for a servo motor. I don't need the speed of the current motor.

 

Thanks again!

Make sure you buy a motor equipped with a 45 to 50mm pulley. The machine pulley is smaller than usual and needs all the help it can get to punch through veg-tan leather. It was designed to sew chrome tan upholstery leather. You may even need to buy a speed reducer. You can learn more on this page.

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21 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

Make sure you buy a motor equipped with a 45 to 50mm pulley. The machine pulley is smaller than usual and needs all the help it can get to punch through veg-tan leather. It was designed to sew chrome tan upholstery leather. You may even need to buy a speed reducer. You can learn more on this page.

Would b nice to know prices on said inventory.

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1 hour ago, William Greene said:

Would b nice to know prices on said inventory.

Open the motors page and look near the bottom of the blue sidebar. It plainly states $135.00 includes shipping in lower 48 states.

The prices of the reducers is in the paragraphs on the right of the photo, where it says: "a new box type which we sell for $200 and a 3 pulley model SR-2, selling for $150."

The layout of the page changes when you use a phone instead of a computer monitor.

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This video link shows the difference between the Brushless and brushed servo motors which may help you decide

(6) Difference between "Brushless" and "Brushed" typed sewing machine servo motors (Remake) - YouTube

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There are some pretty good videos on youtube that show you how to time a machine.  You should be able to find specifics to your machine in a manual for it.  But I think the general points on a rotary hook are the same.  You want the needle to lift a specific distance before the tip of the hook crosses the needle, and you want the hook to cross about in the middle of the scarf.  And you want the hook to come as close to the needle as possible without touching. 

Here's one from @Uwe  

Even if you can't find the specifics for your machine it's not a big deal.  I'd guess on your model you want to needle to lift about 2 mm or 3/32 at the time the hook crosses the needle.  I've found the distances they spec to be a little difficult to measure and I will still sometimes deviate a bit to get it sew nicely in forward and reverse.

 

I

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Even if the timing is correct, the gap between needle and point of hook needs to be as close as possible without actually touching.  The needle guard shouldn’t be keeping the hook away from the proper needle gap - it’s literally designed to be bent in or out as need be.

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14 hours ago, William Greene said:

Would b nice to know prices on said inventory.

I meant on your inventory of machines. 

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Thank all of you for your replies. I have one other question to bring to the table. After having the timing set twice, it appears the machine becomes, somehow out of sync when I get it back and try it out. I am using  size 92 bonded nylon and sews for a very limited distance and then I am right back to where I started all over. Never had this problem with my 111W155. 

H E L P !!!!!!!1

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2 hours ago, William Greene said:

Thank all of you for your replies. I have one other question to bring to the table. After having the timing set twice, it appears the machine becomes, somehow out of sync when I get it back and try it out. I am using  size 92 bonded nylon and sews for a very limited distance and then I am right back to where I started all over. Never had this problem with my 111W155. 

H E L P !!!!!!!1

That should not happen. Perhaps the set screw on the needle bar is slipping. That would throw off the timing in a few minutes, or less. Also, someone may have dinked with the timing gears and left the set screws loose under the machine. I also bought a 111w156 from an upholstery shop and it stays in time and sews with #92 thread all the time.

Hint: you can set the reverse to match the forward stitches at up to 5/inch. If you want longer forward stitches, the reverse will be smaller and hit between the forward stitches. That is how it was made. ;-( When sewing cloth upholstery material this is not a big deal. Mine was originally set for 4 to the inch forward. I adjusted it to 5/inch to get the reverse into the same holes.

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It´s not because it is a different different machine. Any machine can have problems like yours. Maybe check the set screws on your hook drive gears and the screws the hook saddle is attached with. Even better check all the set screws. It´s hard to make a diagnose when not sitting in front of your machine or seeing pictures or maybe a video. Don made a good point - the needle hook distance is often overseen.

Generally - If you can´t solve your problems better check with a sewing machine dealer - maybe  a different than before.

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