Still having same problem please help

[bigsig11010]

You can see the spot on the needle where it is hitting. Is it supposed to do that?

[dikman]

No, it shouldn't hit the needle! The timing looks like it's out. The hook should be aligned with the scarf (recess) in the needle., the needle bar is too high.

[bigsig11010]

I’ve watched Uwe’s video on the hook timing on consew 225. I’m wondering if I should try to do this myself or take it to a sewing machine person and have them do it  so I don’t make things worse? Is it something that if I try and don’t get it right  then have to take it to someone then they are going to say I should have left it alone. 

[DonInReno]

1 hour ago, bigsig11010 said:

I’ve watched Uwe’s video on the hook timing on consew 225. I’m wondering if I should try to do this myself or take it to a sewing machine person and have them do it  so I don’t make things worse? Is it something that if I try and don’t get it right  then have to take it to someone then they are going to say I should have left it alone. 

I’d suggest you have someone adjust it - they can also sort out the tension issues so you’ll be able to avoid the frustrations you’ve been having.   

[bigsig11010]

Well Im still at it. Ive added new tension discs.  Took it to sewing machine guy and got the timing issue fixed. 

Im using 138 on top and 92 on bottom needle is size 24 and still having same issues. The top looks ok at times but the knots on bottom are not pulling up.  

[Pintodeluxe]

Did the sewing mechanic get it sewing right?

Does it sew well with 92 weight thread too and bottom?  

Is that white thread the same stuff you were having trouble with?

Sometimes when troubleshooting a machine problem, the best thing I have done is ditch problem thread.  Sun Guard thread never worked for me at all, for instance.  I tossed it in the trash and my problem went away.  

[kgg]

6 hours ago, Pintodeluxe said:

Sometimes when troubleshooting a machine problem, the best thing I have done is ditch problem thread.

I agree. I would:

i) try a new spool of top thread and if you change the size of the top thread change the needle size according.

ii) reload bobbin thread with fresh thread as if it has been wound for more then a couple of days it may have developed a "coil memory". This may or may not be a problem it will depend on a) color (black is the worst), size of spool it comes off (8 oz or 1lb spool), winding tension and whether it is a brand name thread (like A&E and others) or a poor quality clone thread from China.

If you are using 8 oz spools of thread change to 1lb and use a brand name thread. The 8 oz spools, in my experience, are the worst for developing " coil memory " and " spring back " tension problems. The difference in quality and consistency of a brand name thread to that of the cheap China thread can be like the difference between night and day.

Selecting good quality thread and needles are just as important as selecting a machine. Good machine with poor needles or thread will give you either problems or a poorer quality finished product.

Yes the cost will be greater for a brand name thread but when you have to throw out thread because of poor quality / consistency what did you really save?

Any chance of posting a photo of how you got your top thread setup?

kgg

Edited April 4, 2021 by kgg
forgot to add

[kgg]

It also may come down to the machine may not being able to handle V138 thread in what you are sewing because of needle to hook clearance.

kgg

[kgg]

I don't know if you have a manual for your machine so I found a link to the consew 225 ( www.consew.com/Files/112347/InstructionManuals/225.pdf  ) which maybe of some help. Also there is a repair manual that you can download from ( http://prod2.wikifab.org/cgi/viewcontent.php?article=consew.repair.manual&context=libpubs  ) but you have to signup for an account.

kgg

[bigsig11010]

I stuck with thread cause machine guy said the timing issue was causing pinching the thread and that was causing thread issue but I’ll try something different and see. I know uwe has a thread with a 225 using 207 top and bottom and looking great. I was trying to adjust one thing at a time since it seems that every change triggers a domino effect of other things. Also I was trying to use different color top from bottom so I could tell which side wasn’t acting right. 
 

I’ll try 92 top and bottom and different needle and see

[bigsig11010]

Which size needle with the 92 thread?

[kgg]

I would try either a 22 or 23.

[Wizcrafts]

40 minutes ago, bigsig11010 said:

Which size needle with the 92 thread?

I use a #19 or #20 needle with #92 thread, top and bottom. The #19 gives a tighter lay in soft to medium temper materials. The #20 lets me sew through double-sided tape without gumming up the eye of the needle. I recommend titanium coated needles to help sew difficult and dry materials.

If you are having trouble pulling the knots up from the bottom and are using the correct needle size, increase the top tension, and/or decrease the bobbin tension. If that doesn't do it, buy a magnetic lube jar and a quart of liquid silicon and run your top thread through it. The jar I bought comes with a plastic regulator screw that can be set to just get the thread moist as it feeds through the base. It makes it easier to pull up the knots and can breathe some life back into old, dry thread.

If adjusting the top or bottom tension doesn't allow the knots to come up inside the leather, pull off the right sliding cover and watch the top thread as it goes around the shuttle. Does it hang up on the way in or out? Is there a click as the thread lets goes of the bobbin race and comes up? If so, there are further adjustments needed.

[kgg]

44 minutes ago, bigsig11010 said:

Also I was trying to use different color top from bottom so I could tell which side wasn’t acting right. 

If the same thing happens with V92 thread. I would have a tendency to check the tension that you have set your bobbin thread to. Too much bobbin tension can also cause the bobbin thread from not being drawn up into the material.

kgg

 

[bigsig11010]

Ive continued to adjust. This is 92 top and bottom with a 22 needle.  White is top thread black is bobbin. Finally looking a little better. 

[Wizcrafts]

You should be able to balance the stitches using a #19 or 20 leather point needle. Try reducing the bobbin and increasing the top tensioners.

[bigsig11010]

Just when I thought things were getting better I had a run of terrible stitches. I noticed that the thread had come off the bottom guide and the slack had allowed it to loop up above. I re threaded and did ok for a couple of runs then it happened again. 

When the lever comes down the thread gets really slack and the slack is letting it come off the lower disc. Im posting a couple of pics. Is the thread supposed to go behind the little notch in the opening on the lower disc? Or is the spring supposed to control this. Not sure what Im doing wrong.

[bigsig11010]

Got that sorted out. Things are finally getting better. 

[kgg]

4 hours ago, bigsig11010 said:

I noticed that the thread had come off the bottom guide and the slack had allowed it to loop up above.

Even through you may have sorted the problem out I figure you may want to look at a video of how to thread your machine. The link ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PIKml4yGLSc ) is not for your machine but it has a similar top top thread tensioner system. It is one of the better ones as far as detail goes and if you follow the way it is done you shouldn't have any other top tension problems else you may have a worn out / damaged top tensioner on your machine.

The video shows the top thread going over the small post located on the right side of the discs of the top thread tensioner unit. That point of having your top thread go over the post before going to the take-up spring disc has been a topic of much contention. I happen to fall into the category of believing it should go over the post. My reasoning is  i) if the thread will not go over the post and sit properly behind the post the thread size is to large for that machine. ii) provides more surface contact area of the top thread between the two tensioner discs. I have done it both ways on my machines and find I get more consistent tension but that just maybe me and the sizes/type of thread I use.

Once you get the thread path and tension settled out you should never have to manually thread your machine again when have to or want to change the top thread.

i) Cut the old thread just above the old spool and tie the new thread to the old top thread that is still threaded properly through to the needle,

ii) Lift and lock the pressor foot in the up position

iii) Pull the old thread out of the eye of the needle and pull on the old top thread which will pull the new thread through.

iv) Cut the top thread above the knot of old and new thread

v) Thread the new thread through the needle.

Best of Luck,

kgg