Hags Report post Posted May 10, 2021 Sorry for responding so late. Crazy busy right now with a new deck and floors going in... I cant understand why you cant see my attachments either. I can see them. Maybe do a search in the show off or holsters sections. Here's a couple of recent ones. The one that looks like a lefty is a SA 1911 and is actually a RH holster. This is the effect of taking a selfie.. the other is a glock 19. Both chest rigs, one is a hiker, trail worker, and the other a hunter. I also just finished one for a SW 629 6" 44 mag. That took a lot of real estate. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sbrownn Report post Posted May 10, 2021 Really nice job. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Akers Report post Posted May 14, 2021 Thanks Hags, they look really good. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OldNSlowMarine Report post Posted May 24, 2021 I use 8 oz Wicket and Craig for just about everything (holsters, mag carriers, and double layered belts). I would not recommend going any thinner, especially for a 1911/2011. Patience is your best friend when it comes to wet molding. I dip dye my panels and let dry overnight, then move on to the glueing and stitching phases. Once I'm ready to start wet molding, I submerge in hot water (from the sink, not boiled) for about 10-12 seconds, then place in a Ziploc bag for 3-5 minutes. Pull out of the bag and start smoothing out my sewing machine marks, then open up the holster and insert safe weapon, or dummy gun and go at it. I repeat my process until the crease lines are holding. The wetter the leather is, the less shape it will hold, it keeps expanding back out. Look into "casing leather" for a better understanding. As far as retention, I crease and impress the backside of my trigger guard. Typically all crease lines and impressions are usually darker than the rest of the leather. You can mask it some by airbrushing a light coat of dye over the entire holster after it's dried out, but I rarely do. Never used a vacuum either. Not saying anything bad about them, but they're really not essential. Have fun! Jason Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Akers Report post Posted May 26, 2021 Thanks Jason Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bert03241 Report post Posted May 26, 2021 jmo but I think it would look better if you sewed the outside edges also. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Akers Report post Posted May 28, 2021 (edited) Bert03241, I completely agree!!! Lol I'm surprised no one picked up on that sooner. This was the first one I made (made for one of my son in laws). I had finished it including sealing it and posting it here, before I realized I hadn't sewn the edges! Oh well, practice makes perfect. If it comes apart on him, I'll make him another one. Edited May 28, 2021 by Akers Added words I didn't want. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rahere Report post Posted May 28, 2021 2 hours ago, Akers said: Bert03241, I completely agree!!! Lol I'm surprised no one picked up on that sooner. This was the first one I made (made for one of my son in laws). I had finished it including sealing it and posting it here, before I realized I hadn't sewn the edges! Oh well, practice makes perfect. If it comes apart on him, I'll make him another one. It's a starter's piece, which may serve well in the fireld, rather than a dress holster. As a former soldier, I'd far rather have someting like that than something glossy (shone) with the edges picked out (shape), those being two of the things you break up with camouflage - the others being silhouette and shadow. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bert03241 Report post Posted May 28, 2021 6 hours ago, Rahere said: It's a starter's piece, which may serve well in the fireld, rather than a dress holster. As a former soldier, I'd far rather have someting like that than something glossy (shone) with the edges picked out (shape), those being two of the things you break up with camouflage - the others being silhouette and shadow. Sewing the edges is not for show. Its to make sure it holds up out in the field . The putting it on and taking it off a belt and the constant drawing and holstering of the weapon, takes it toll on the holster and the edges will start to come apart. He could still sew the edges on this one if he so desired .Not hard to do. Again JMHO. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rahere Report post Posted May 28, 2021 3 hours ago, Bert03241 said: Sewing the edges is not for show. Its to make sure it holds up out in the field . The putting it on and taking it off a belt and the constant drawing and holstering of the weapon, takes it toll on the holster and the edges will start to come apart. He could still sew the edges on this one if he so desired .Not hard to do. Again JMHO. And that lived-in wear is exactly what I like about it. I wasn't a Tin Soldier, you see. The best of the best asked for me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Akers Report post Posted May 29, 2021 Thanks guys for all the tips. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
afssfA Report post Posted June 4, 2021 Thanks, sbrownn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
