Question's about Adler 30-1 serial number and stitch length

[Oldiesfan]

I long time ago I obtained a Adler 30-1 . A friend of mine who had problems with sewing had enough of it . So we traded 

The same day of arriving i played with the tension and needle height ( it was not all the way in ) . Threaded it and it was sewing beautiful stitches .

 

Until today I never used the machine again . 

Why did I use it today ? 

Because of a question I had in the beginning the machine stood in the room .

Is the stitch length still okay ?

I threaded the machine after a test on thick paper . After that I'll used 5 mm leather and no changing of tension . No matching thread and needle also . See pictures of results. 

Last picture shows needle holes in 5mm leather. 

Stitch lenght on max ( 5mm and little bit over ) 

How old this long-arm 30-1 Adler is i don't now . Serial 79936 .

Edited April 11, 2021 by Oldiesfan

[Wizcrafts]

I have a 30-7 and it gets 5 to the inch as well. If you ever find that it struggles to get a particular stitch length, increase the amount of slack thread using the barrel adjuster on top. More slack thread on top makes it easier to pull the work back with the foot. Of course, the bobbin tension should be minimized so it isn't fighting the feed.

[Oldiesfan]

35 minutes ago, Wizcrafts said:

I have a 30-7 and it gets 5 to the inch as well. If you ever find that it struggles to get a particular stitch length, increase the amount of slack thread using the barrel adjuster on top. More slack thread on top makes it easier to pull the work back with the foot. Of course, the bobbin tension should be minimized so it isn't fighting the feed.

Maybe it sounds silly  

But what do you mean with " Barrel Adjuster " ?

 

My Dutch is better dan my English witch I barely use in live haha .

Edited April 11, 2021 by Oldiesfan

[jimi]

1 hour ago, Oldiesfan said:

But what do you mean with " Barrel Adjuster " ?

I think Wiz is referring to the thread take up lever on the top arm of the machine, it has a small scale at the back min, medium, thick.

[Oldiesfan]

39 minutes ago, jimi said:

I think Wiz is referring to the thread take up lever on the top arm of the machine, it has a small scale at the back min, medium, thick.

 

That's what ik thought but was not sure about because off mentioning the word " Barrel " .

 

[Wizcrafts]

6 hours ago, jimi said:

I think Wiz is referring to the thread take up lever on the top arm of the machine, it has a small scale at the back min, medium, thick.

That is the round, or barrel shaped adjuster I was referring to. I forgot that it has a scale with a pointer on the end for thin, medium or thick work. I was last sewing on my Singer 29K71 patcher that only has a round screw on the end of the slack adjuster. It resembles a long, round barrel. Hence, I think of it as a barrel adjuster. :-)

In any case, the more this adjuster is brought into play, the more loose or slack top thread is fed to the needle after the take-up reaches the top and moves down. With no slack, the top thread may fight against the action of the presser foot, causing slightly shortened stitches. However, the stitches will lie very tight against the leather.

A moderate amount of slack in the top thread will let the foot move a little more freely. You will get longer stitches that the minimum setting because the thread won't fight so hard against the motion of the foot.

In the maximum position there is so much loose thread that it will flop around as you sew. You will get your longest stitches in thick work. But, the thread could get caught by the tip of the needle or it could wrap around a leg of the presser foot and jam things up. However, if you are careful, this setting will give a reasonable stitch appearance while allowing the foot to pull the work a little more than might otherwise be the case. As anybody who uses a patcher machine has learned, the maximum stitch length is greatly reduced as you exceed 1/4 inch, or 6mm thickness.

Another thing one can do to get the longest possible stitch length in any thickness is to reduce the top and bottom thread tensions so they aren't fighting against the foot motion. This is especially helpful if the feed motion cam is badly worn.

[Oldiesfan]

12 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

That is the round, or barrel shaped adjuster I was referring to. I forgot that it has a scale with a pointer on the end for thin, medium or thick work. I was last sewing on my Singer 29K71 patcher that only has a round screw on the end of the slack adjuster. It resembles a long, round barrel. Hence, I think of it as a barrel adjuster. :-)

In any case, the more this adjuster is brought into play, the more loose or slack top thread is fed to the needle after the take-up reaches the top and moves down. With no slack, the top thread may fight against the action of the presser foot, causing slightly shortened stitches. However, the stitches will lie very tight against the leather.

A moderate amount of slack in the top thread will let the foot move a little more freely. You will get longer stitches that the minimum setting because the thread won't fight so hard against the motion of the foot.

In the maximum position there is so much loose thread that it will flop around as you sew. You will get your longest stitches in thick work. But, the thread could get caught by the tip of the needle or it could wrap around a leg of the presser foot and jam things up. However, if you are careful, this setting will give a reasonable stitch appearance while allowing the foot to pull the work a little more than might otherwise be the case. As anybody who uses a patcher machine has learned, the maximum stitch length is greatly reduced as you exceed 1/4 inch, or 6mm thickness.

Another thing one can do to get the longest possible stitch length in any thickness is to reduce the top and bottom thread tensions so they aren't fighting against the foot motion. This is especially helpful if the feed motion cam is badly worn.

Thanks for this reply.  I will play with te tension . It's just by occasion that i need to sew thick leather 

4 or 5 mm or + . This time the stitches  were very tight as you can see . So tension was high and strong threads. 

[simianforce]

Can anyone comment on the range of stitch lengths that the 30-1 can do? @Wizcrafts? 

[Wizcrafts]

On 6/20/2024 at 5:33 PM, simianforce said:

Can anyone comment on the range of stitch lengths that the 30-1 can do? @Wizcrafts? 

I have a 30-7, not a 30-1. I get over 5 to the inch into 4-5 ounces of leather with the stitch regulator all the way down on the manually raised foot (using the foot lifter lever on the back). You can cheat for longer stitches by lowering the regulator bracket a little more. But, when you go to lift the foot, it will stop at the regulator bracket before it can lock in the lifted position.

You can also increase the slack in the top thread to make it easier to feed. You can push or pull the leather to increase the stitch length.

As a last resort, if there is noticeable free motion in the foot, when you push and pull on it in the lifted position, replacing the feed motion cam may get a bit more length. However, the stitch length always decreases as the thickness being sewn increases, due to the pendulum effect.

[CowboyBob]

6 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

I have a 30-7, not a 30-1. I get over 5 to the inch into 4-5 ounces of leather with the stitch regulator all the way down on the manually raised foot (using the foot lifter lever on the back). You can cheat for longer stitches by lowering the regulator bracket a little more. But, when you go to lift the foot, it will stop at the regulator bracket before it can lock in the lifted position.

You can also increase the slack in the top thread to make it easier to feed. You can push or pull the leather to increase the stitch length.

As a last resort, if there is noticeable free motion in the foot, when you push and pull on it in the lifted position, replacing the feed motion cam may get a bit more length. However, the stitch length always decreases as the thickness being sewn increases, due to the pendulum effect.

@WizcraftsIt will help your foot lift if you grind alittle off of the top of the foot(the comes in contact when the regulator is all the way down) so it doesn't hit the stitch regulator.

[Wizcrafts]

4 hours ago, CowboyBob said:

@WizcraftsIt will help your foot lift if you grind alittle off of the top of the foot(the comes in contact when the regulator is all the way down) so it doesn't hit the stitch regulator.

@CowboyBob, that's sabotage! Herr Adler would roll over in his grave!