Bi-Fold(?) Wallet

[sbrownn]

BuckleGuy is an online store.  In my experience, you don't have to be afraid of buying leather from them sight unseen.  

[ThatTallChick]

4 minutes ago, CastleLeatherWorks said:

Its really all personal preference. some people like a more rustic look while others want something that looks super refined and higher end.

i dont know what size pricking irons you used but i would just suggest thinner thread for now untill you figure out what look you want. i use 0.45mm for most of my projects spaced at 3.38mm but with tighter stitch spacing like 3.0 or 2.7mm i think i might step it down 0.35mm.

take care =)

I honestly couldn't' tell you what sized pricking irons I use, I got this kit from amazon and ... I mean it's not amazing but it got me into the hobby. The pricking irons are getting a little rough already though (the pricks are actually bending... Which is weird because I use a self healing mat when I use them) so it looks like I'm in the market for some new ones soon anyway. I'll have to look into more of these measurements- is the 0.45 mm the size of the prick, and the 3.38mm is the size of the space between each prick? 

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For being a new at leather work you're doing the right thing by constantly making things and asking a lot of questions. as for the leather youre using it looks like utility grade which is fine for prototyping. i went thru a whole side when i first started. it was split horribly with some parts being 2.0oz and the rest somewhere around 6/7oz. this is when i started looking into skiving and splitters.

Yeah I'll definitely keep using the rest of the...entire...cow... I have... of the veg tanned leather I have already haha until I'm a little bit better at this whole thing- right now I feel like everything I make is just me experimenting and I don't want to do that with something terribly expensive 

Also when i first started i bought a bunch of dyes thinking i was going to hand dye all my projects and soon found out that wasnt the best route for me. Now i buy single shoulders or panels of different colors already split down to the thickness i like which is around1.0/2.0oz. makes my life easier and i always get a consistent color and finish. you will find out what works for you the longer you're in the trade.

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Also when i first started i bought a bunch of dyes thinking i was going to hand dye all my projects and soon found out that wasnt the best route for me. Now i buy single shoulders or panels of different colors already split down to the thickness i like which is around1.0/2.0oz. makes my life easier and i always get a consistent color and finish. you will find out what works for you the longer you're in the trade.

Hahah that's good to know. I was introduced to leatherworking when I came across prince armory's youtube channel-- and he does dying, painting, etc, so initially I thought that was the norm which is why I picked up the dyes and resolene and the like-- I do like the texture it gives me, and it's fun to be able to pick whatever colour you want for each individual project (instead of buying a specific colour for each project) but when your wallets pop up on this site I'm always just dumbfounded.. I think the solid colours really help make them look so professional and clean. I'm sure I'll grow out of they dying, especially once I've moved up to higher quality leather.

3 minutes ago, sbrownn said:

BuckleGuy is an online store.  In my experience, you don't have to be afraid of buying leather from them sight unseen.  

Right! I just like to buy from Canada so that I don't have to pay import fees and the like  

[acope]

47 minutes ago, ThatTallChick said:

 The pricking irons are getting a little rough already though (the pricks are actually bending... Which is weird because I use a self healing mat when I use them) so it looks like I'm in the market for some new ones soon anyway. I'll have to look into more of these measurements- is the 0.45 mm the size of the prick, and the 3.38mm is the size of the space between each prick? 

A lot of folks will use the term pricking iron for both pricking irons and stitching chisels.  There are different.  The pricking irons are intended to just put a mark on the leather that you then make the hole with a stitching awl.  Stitching chisels are heavier and are used to actually make the holes.  So that could be why the tines our your pricking iron are looking worse for wear.

Take a look here for more information:  https://www.goldbarkleather.com/sourceblog/chisel-vs-pricking-iron

You are off to a good start, keep at it!

Allen

[CastleLeatherWorks]

38 minutes ago, ThatTallChick said:

I honestly couldn't' tell you what sized pricking irons I use, I got this kit from amazon and ... I mean it's not amazing but it got me into the hobby. The pricking irons are getting a little rough already though (the pricks are actually bending... Which is weird because I use a self healing mat when I use them) so it looks like I'm in the market for some new ones soon anyway. I'll have to look into more of these measurements- is the 0.45 mm the size of the prick, and the 3.38mm is the size of the space between each prick?

I too bought a kit from amazon when i first started about 2 years ago. the only thing i still use is the block of beeswax and the wood burnisher lol. i still buy some tools from amazon just for the sheer convince. for my leather i go through rocky mountain leather supply, district leather supply and occasionally Springfield leather. you might want to look into a poundo (rubberized) board or even a thicker scrap piece of leather. instead of running your pricking irons into your cutting mat.

so the 0.45mm i was referring to is the diameter of the thread and thats my most commonly used size for the goods i make.... theres a whole bunch of different diameters but you will find what works for you. i have several spools of thread i wont ever use because i didn't know what i was buying when i ordered it.

pricking irons range from 2.7mm for small goods like watch straps all the way up to 6mm for bigger items and thats the distance between the holes it will make. then there's the different types of irons you can get diamond, french or round style are all popular. if you do a search on amazon you can see all the different types available.

[ThatTallChick]

5 minutes ago, acope said:

A lot of folks will use the term pricking iron for both pricking irons and stitching chisels.  There are different.  The pricking irons are intended to just put a mark on the leather that you then make the hole with a stitching awl.  Stitching chisels are heavier and are used to actually make the holes.  So that could be why the tines our your pricking iron are looking worse for wear.

Take a look here for more information:  https://www.goldbarkleather.com/sourceblog/chisel-vs-pricking-iron

You are off to a good start, keep at it!

Allen

Okay well this just opened up a whole new world-- I definitely have chisels, so I'll use the proper terminology from not on, thank you for clearing that up but... Now I feel like I'm using an awl wrong? I use mine to help open holes that I'm finding difficult to poke through with my needle... I didn't know people used an awl to create the holes from the beginning-- are awls supposed to be sharp? Mine are maybe as sharp as a saddlers needle so...not... 

4 minutes ago, CastleLeatherWorks said:

I too bought a kit from amazon when i first started about 2 years ago. the only thing i still use is the block of beeswax and the wood burnisher lol. i still buy some tools from amazon just for the sheer convince. for my leather i go through rocky mountain leather supply, district leather supply and occasionally Springfield leather. you might want to look into a poundo (rubberized) board or even a thicker scrap piece of leather. instead of running your pricking irons into your cutting mat.

so the 0.45mm i was referring to is the diameter of the thread and thats my most commonly used size for the goods i make.... theres a whole bunch of different diameters but you will find what works for you. i have several spools of thread i wont ever use because i didn't know what i was buying when i ordered it.

pricking irons range from 2.7mm for small goods like watch straps all the way up to 6mm for bigger items and thats the distance between the holes it will make. then there's the different types of irons you can get diamond, french or round style are all popular. if you do a search on amazon you can see all the different types available.

Yeah the cutting matt is getting pretty rough from the pricking chisels, I'll definitely look into getting a rubberized board instead 

Oh that's good to know about the thread thickness- I just checked and I've been using 1mm which is a lot larger than 0.45mm haha I'll purchase a smaller size and see how I feel about it! I don't know what I'm buying right now either so knowing all the different things I should try is awesome, thank you!

I know the ones I have are diamond shaped-- I had no idea they come in different shapes... I feel like the more I learn, the more questions I have haha what do the different shapes get you? Does your stitch line look different? 

[mike02130]

Three things not to do that you do.

Use wing dividers rather than a groover.  It came in the kit, right?

Do not use your self healing mat as a backup to your irons.  I use a thick piece of leather or an end-grain log.

Do not shop at Tandy.  O A leather supply is in Canada. https://www.oaleathersupply.com/

Be aware that chisels are measured between the teeth while irons are measured from center to center.

Leather work is not a poor persons hobby.

[DJole]

I took a look at the Amazon kit you mentioned, and it appears that  you have a set of diamond chisels, which make a diamond shaped hole in the leather. Pricking irons make an angled slit in the leather, rather than a hole. Pricking irons are meant to MARK the holes that you then pierce with a stitching awl. That's the traditional standard, and many people aspire to that. But the diamond chisels are much more forgiving, and easier to make good stitching lines with (since getting straight lines with the awl takes a lot of consistent practice).
The stitching chisels should be strong enough to drive through two pieces of leather of the thickness you are using. If they are bending, then they are made of bad metal, or you're driving them into something hard.
Good advice given above, to change the thing you're using underneath the leather when making the stitching lines. And if they keep bending, then the tools are bad, and you should look into replacements.
I second the advice on using the wing dividers to make a stitching line (or a light, shallow stitching "groove"). I found that I can get a much better line with the wing dividers than with the groover I bought years ago. The groover sits alone, unused for a few years now. 

For choosing thread: take a look at some YouTube videos to help you match the thread (which will involve choosing the right size of needle and the size of stitching/pricking iron also) to the project. 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uc_4cZp9JDs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XYT9Rc2YRAk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X3BwpAkQlgg

All that being said, that's pretty good work, and you've learned a lot! Keep it up!

Edited April 13, 2021 by DJole

[sbrownn]

1 hour ago, ThatTallChick said:

Okay well this just opened up a whole new world-- I definitely have chisels, so I'll use the proper terminology from not on, thank you for clearing that up but... Now I feel like I'm using an awl wrong? I use mine to help open holes that I'm finding difficult to poke through with my needle... I didn't know people used an awl to create the holes from the beginning-- are awls supposed to be sharp? Mine are maybe as sharp as a saddlers needle so...not... 

Yeah the cutting matt is getting pretty rough from the pricking chisels, I'll definitely look into getting a rubberized board instead 

Oh that's good to know about the thread thickness- I just checked and I've been using 1mm which is a lot larger than 0.45mm haha I'll purchase a smaller size and see how I feel about it! I don't know what I'm buying right now either so knowing all the different things I should try is awesome, thank you!

I know the ones I have are diamond shaped-- I had no idea they come in different shapes... I feel like the more I learn, the more questions I have haha what do the different shapes get you? Does your stitch line look different? 

" are awls supposed to be sharp?"

Yes, they should be sharp on the edges and pointed as well.  Different sized awls are used for the different sized holes needed for the different sized threads.

[Hardrada]

Get yourself a #1 and #0 bevelers, and maybe a 10 mm corner punch. The edges will look more refined and withstand wear and tear better.

Keep at it!

 

Addendum: have you tried Zelikovitz? https://www.zelistore.com/

Edited April 13, 2021 by Hardrada

[mike02130]

3 hours ago, Hardrada said:

Get yourself a #1 and #0 bevelers,

One needs to figure out the actual measured width of a beveler.  Different brands have different numbering systems.  A Ron's Montana edger--#1 and Barry King's #00 and Palosanto's #0 are all the same size.