Bi-Fold(?) Wallet

[ThatTallChick]

16 hours ago, DJole said:

I took a look at the Amazon kit you mentioned, and it appears that  you have a set of diamond chisels, which make a diamond shaped hole in the leather. Pricking irons make an angled slit in the leather, rather than a hole. Pricking irons are meant to MARK the holes that you then pierce with a stitching awl. That's the traditional standard, and many people aspire to that. But the diamond chisels are much more forgiving, and easier to make good stitching lines with (since getting straight lines with the awl takes a lot of consistent practice).
The stitching chisels should be strong enough to drive through two pieces of leather of the thickness you are using. If they are bending, then they are made of bad metal, or you're driving them into something hard.
Good advice given above, to change the thing you're using underneath the leather when making the stitching lines. And if they keep bending, then the tools are bad, and you should look into replacements.
I second the advice on using the wing dividers to make a stitching line (or a light, shallow stitching "groove"). I found that I can get a much better line with the wing dividers than with the groover I bought years ago. The groover sits alone, unused for a few years now. 

For choosing thread: take a look at some YouTube videos to help you match the thread (which will involve choosing the right size of needle and the size of stitching/pricking iron also) to the project. 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uc_4cZp9JDs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XYT9Rc2YRAk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X3BwpAkQlgg

All that being said, that's pretty good work, and you've learned a lot! Keep it up!

Thank you for all the help and advice! It seems to just be the one tooth on my 6 pronged chisel that is bent, perhaps I dropped it at some point... I might get my spouse to forge me some new ones. I've tried using the wing divider and I can't say I'm terribly fond of it, just because it seems to fall all over the place- I find the groover is really easy to rest on the side of the leather and use the edge of the leather to make the line straight, but I'm sure using the wing divider just takes practice. 

I'll definitely keep watching some more videos; that last one was especially helpful, it was helpful to see the varying thicknesses actually stitched out. It sounds like the general consensus in choosing thread thickness is based on whatever you think looks best, and maybe a little bit of strength but I'm not making saddles or anything.

All in all, good to know, thank you!

17 hours ago, sbrownn said:

" are awls supposed to be sharp?"

Yes, they should be sharp on the edges and pointed as well.  Different sized awls are used for the different sized holes needed for the different sized threads.

That's good to know! I have one sharp awl, it looks like I could thread something through it though so I figured it was for actually stitching with, also it's huge- I'll need to get myself a set of good awls once I'm better at the craft.. or maybe sharpen the ones I have or something. 

16 hours ago, Hardrada said:

Get yourself a #1 and #0 bevelers, and maybe a 10 mm corner punch. The edges will look more refined and withstand wear and tear better.

Keep at it!

 

Addendum: have you tried Zelikovitz? https://www.zelistore.com/

I've got some bevellers- not quite sure on the size but I find they just tear apart the leather- I'll sharpen them and try again though and if all else fails I'll add it to the ever growing list of new tools I need  Thank you!

[Nailbanger]

Not bad,,, it takes practice for anyone to make stuff that pleases many eyes, 

i get leather from Maverick, their prices are decent and quality is great IMHO, makes it less costly to get going, and get some variety, plus who of us doesnt like the smell o hides! 

[Tugadude]

19 hours ago, sbrownn said:

" are awls supposed to be sharp?"

Yes, they should be sharp on the edges and pointed as well.  Different sized awls are used for the different sized holes needed for the different sized threads.

Slight point of clarification on this.  The edges of the awl should not be very sharp.  The tip needs to be, but as the awl tapers outwards, the edges should be more polished than sharpened.  The reason is you don't want the awl to cut a hole as wide as the awl is.  The idea is to cut through the leather and then expand the hole, not cut it.  That way it will allow itself to close back up.  If you cut the leather, hammering will flatten the hole but it can't "heal" itself.  The smaller the hole the better so long as there is room for the thread to do what the thread needs to do.

[sbrownn]

7 minutes ago, Tugadude said:

Slight point of clarification on this.  The edges of the awl should not be very sharp.  The tip needs to be, but as the awl tapers outwards, the edges should be more polished than sharpened.  The reason is you don't want the awl to cut a hole as wide as the awl is.  The idea is to cut through the leather and then expand the hole, not cut it.  That way it will allow itself to close back up.  If you cut the leather, hammering will flatten the hole but it can't "heal" itself.  The smaller the hole the better so long as there is room for the thread to do what the thread needs to do.

I guess it depends on what type of awl you are using.

I use a Palosanto awl and it's edges do not taper at all.  It came sharp and I keep it that way and find it is much easier to use than my other awls that do have tapered edges.

[mike02130]

3 hours ago, ThatTallChick said:

I've tried using the wing divider and I can't say I'm terribly fond of it, just because it seems to fall all over the place-

A wing divider will allow for a better looking stitch.  If you start using proper thickness of leather for a wallet, a groover may just tear it up.