Techsew 5100 Binding attachment?

[Runzeigrun]

So I jump off the deep end and got a techsew 5100 without doing all the research. I wanted to get a binding attachment for this machine and they do not make it for this model. Is there a aftermarket brand that makes one that can be correctly used on the 5100 SE? If you have a link that would be great. Thank you in advance!!

[CowboyBob]

Call Tenessee Attachment Co @ 800-251-5000 & tell them you have a Juki TSC-441 & they can make you one,they will also need a sample of the binding & thickness of leather your binding.

Edited April 14, 2021 by CowboyBob

[Runzeigrun]

4 hours ago, CowboyBob said:

Call Tenessee Attachment Co @ 800-251-5000 & tell them you have a Juki TSC-441 & they can make you one,they will also need a sample of the binding & thickness of leather your binding.

Thank you very much!!!! I will reach out to them!

[Wizcrafts]

39 minutes ago, Runzeigrun said:

Thank you very much!!!! I will reach out to them!

Please let us know how this works out regarding a custom binder for a 441 clone.

[JJN]

I plan on buying this synchronized binder for my Juki 441 for $138.30. I have bought other items from KHSEW and the build quality was excellent! They have a good selection of binders you can use on this attachment for various widths of binding material and and thicknesses of assemblies. It comes from Hong Kong but shipping was surprisingly fast. You will have to create an account before you can view prices.

https://www.khsew.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=182&product_id=1902

 

[nylonRigging]

7 hours ago, JJN said:

I plan on buying this synchronized binder for my Juki 441 for $138.30. I have bought other items from KHSEW and the build quality was excellent! They have a good selection of binders you can use on this attachment for various widths of binding material and and thicknesses of assemblies. It comes from Hong Kong but shipping was surprisingly fast. You will have to create an account before you can view prices.

Total price for everything on that kH binder system , synchro  Swingarm , raised Feed Dog , raised Needle Plate, and Binder . ( all shipped ) .  is just under 240-$
That is just a killer price for the quality of mechanics that I received . I seen that and I could not walk by and pass that up, had to get one and mount it up and check it out .

'Same here' .. Shipping is 'surprisingly' super fast speed pack, for me on W. Coast it was ringing my doorbell in about 5 days after a email notice sent .

I highly recommend to anyone on the fence and thinking about getting .. All hardware was true and correct in mounting . The Synchronized Swingarm mechanics, is about as simple as it gets, and works perfect . system is 'pin fit' and witnesses movement with the raised Feed Dog movement .
.

Edited April 15, 2021 by nylonRigging

[Runzeigrun]

On 4/14/2021 at 11:56 AM, JJN said:

I plan on buying this synchronized binder for my Juki 441 for $138.30. I have bought other items from KHSEW and the build quality was excellent! They have a good selection of binders you can use on this attachment for various widths of binding material and and thicknesses of assemblies. It comes from Hong Kong but shipping was surprisingly fast. You will have to create an account before you can view prices.

https://www.khsew.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=182&product_id=1902

 

I saw this one, but ended up talking to the cowboy distributor and got a simple one they sell. If it doesnt work I will end up buying this one. 

On 4/14/2021 at 9:16 AM, Wizcrafts said:

Please let us know how this works out regarding a custom binder for a 441 clone.

I did get a quote from them, but the cost right now for me was on the higher end. Maybe down the road. They definitely knew what they were doing just by the specific questions they asked. Will consider them for future purchases. 

[JollyDodgerCanvas]

I bought this binding attachment and it's working well for straight runs but I'm having trouble getting it to go around curved material without bunching up the fabric and sewing off the edge of the binding. I made my own bias cut binding out of 10oz canvas and am also using webbing, same issues with not being able to turn a corner with a less than 3" radius, sill learning how to use it.

I need to bind a piece for a bag with a 1" radius and also tried to use a needle plate binder attachment for my P1206rb and had the same issues of not being able to turn a corner tight enough.

[RockyAussie]

9 hours ago, JollyDodgerCanvas said:

I bought this binding attachment and it's working well for straight runs but I'm having trouble getting it to go around curved material without bunching up the fabric and sewing off the edge of the binding. I made my own bias cut binding out of 10oz canvas and am also using webbing, same issues with not being able to turn a corner with a less than 3" radius, sill learning how to use it.

I need to bind a piece for a bag with a 1" radius and also tried to use a needle plate binder attachment for my P1206rb and had the same issues of not being able to turn a corner tight enough.

The binding tape type can make a world of difference here. Weave that goes straight across and looks like gross grain will work better. Try some leather instead as you may find it better.

[nylonRigging]

11 hours ago, JollyDodgerCanvas said:

I bought this binding attachment and it's working well for straight runs but I'm having trouble getting it to go around curved material without bunching up the fabric and sewing off the edge of the binding. I made my own bias cut binding out of 10oz canvas and am also using webbing, same issues with not being able to turn a corner with a less than 3" radius, sill learning how to use it.

I need to bind a piece for a bag with a 1" radius and also tried to use a needle plate binder attachment for my P1206rb and had the same issues of not being able to turn a corner tight enough.

You say your doing/Binding Canvas fabric . What is the thickness of the material you are feeding into that 441 Binder  ?
also what size thread you using on that canvas ?
Can you post a Pic, of the 'bunching' problem you get ? .

did you buy the feet offered/supplied by KH on their 441 setup ? . or, did you cut/trim your own for the Binder ?
the feet set-up is a fine point to complement the binder system and end result, also the angle that your feeding the material through the binders throat will change your results .
Also for your learning technique with a synchronized binder and compound feed and feed/turn rhythm . slow the machine down on the radius and make a conscience effort to only feed-turn the material, on the needles down stroke, when the needles foot is down, with the outer feet off .

That KH 441 machine and binder set-up is a brute for Binding, and you maybe able to get far better results with a smaller/lighter cylinder bed or flat-bed machine and binder set-up .
for me sewing.. ( example Fabric ) .. On that 441 Binder set-up . I have a couple small outside corners on a closing flap of a bag that I regularly do .
that is 'smallest ' I do on that machine and binder for ( thickness ) of material when Binding around radius lid and closing flap .. 
Is binding threw ..  2-sides of 1" type-ll nylon binding . 1 piece of webbing . 3 pieces of 1-k denier . and 3/8" foam . I have the machine dumb down with nylon #138 .
That is NOT Even Close to workload that size of machine and binder can do and handle . It's nature is big tension, thick thread cord, big needle and thick material .
.
working with Good quality Binding tape material is a must , but I got to take a different view of binding material than RockAussie . Not that you can not turn a nice radius with gross grain , but I find that I prefer binding with a bias and herringbone weave over the gross grain when turning tighter radius.
.

 

[kgg]

16 hours ago, JollyDodgerCanvas said:

I need to bind a piece for a bag with a 1" radius and also tried to use a needle plate binder attachment for my P1206rb and had the same issues of not being able to turn a corner tight enough.

I only use your standard bed mounted inline binder attachments on my machines whether they are on my portable walking foot, flatbed or cylinder bed. The main reasons for me using this style of binder attachment are they more cost effective cheaper ($20 vs $200), gives me more flexibility of tightening / closing the exiting gap of the binder for the tape and the ability of using the same binder attachments on all my machines. I find the run off which sometimes happens is mostly cause by my inattention of keeping the material tightly in the binder attachment as I fed the turn, sewing speed, the thickness of the materials edge, the type of binding tape, the thickness of the binding tape and whether it is raw edge or double folded binding tape. I find the bias tape is more forgiving then nylon or poly tapes but is much weaker. Also bunching can be cause by your binder attachment having to large an exiting opening for the thickness of the binding tape so it doesn't give a nice tight wrap.

Doing corners particularly tight corners in thicker materials or with thicker / stiffer binding tape I would suggest adjusting the binding attachment a little closer to the needle so the seam is farther in from the edge. I would also suggest doing some test runs with a different size radius's so you can see how you need to adjust the distance from the needle and the best way to feed the item through the binding attachment to get a good result.

kgg

[Wizcrafts]

Decades ago I was the sewer for a one man industrialist. We needed to edge bind honeycomb material road worker vests, having inside curves at the armholes, and, after trying commercially available units, I ended up having a custom right angle binder made. My deduction is that 1, you need a right angle binder to sew inside curves and 2, it may need to be built for the job at hand.

[shoepatcher]

On 4/14/2021 at 11:36 AM, Runzeigrun said:

Thank you very much!!!! I will reach out to them!

Will not be cheap

glenn

[JollyDodgerCanvas]

On 6/4/2022 at 11:30 PM, nylonRigging said:

You say your doing/Binding Canvas fabric . What is the thickness of the material you are feeding into that 441 Binder  ?
also what size thread you using on that canvas ?
Can you post a Pic, of the 'bunching' problem you get ? .

did you buy the feet offered/supplied by KH on their 441 setup ? . or, did you cut/trim your own for the Binder ?
the feet set-up is a fine point to complement the binder system and end result, also the angle that your feeding the material through the binders throat will change your results .
Also for your learning technique with a synchronized binder and compound feed and feed/turn rhythm . slow the machine down on the radius and make a conscience effort to only feed-turn the material, on the needles down stroke, when the needles foot is down, with the outer feet off .

That KH 441 machine and binder set-up is a brute for Binding, and you maybe able to get far better results with a smaller/lighter cylinder bed or flat-bed machine and binder set-up .
for me sewing.. ( example Fabric ) .. On that 441 Binder set-up . I have a couple small outside corners on a closing flap of a bag that I regularly do .
that is 'smallest ' I do on that machine and binder for ( thickness ) of material when Binding around radius lid and closing flap .. 
Is binding threw ..  2-sides of 1" type-ll nylon binding . 1 piece of webbing . 3 pieces of 1-k denier . and 3/8" foam . I have the machine dumb down with nylon #138 .
That is NOT Even Close to workload that size of machine and binder can do and handle . It's nature is big tension, thick thread cord, big needle and thick material .
.
working with Good quality Binding tape material is a must , but I got to take a different view of binding material than RockAussie . Not that you can not turn a nice radius with gross grain , but I find that I prefer binding with a bias and herringbone weave over the gross grain when turning tighter radius.
.

 

Using V138 bonded polyester thread, the attachments are from KH, using the 25mm one now. I bought a "bias binding folder" to make my own binding material out of 10 oz canvas, cut on the bias. I also bought cotton webbing in three different thicknesses and had luck with the thicker material, keeping the needle down when turning is a good tip! I have had to use my awl a lot to keep the material from walking away from the edge. The fabric I'm binding is a composite of 24oz canvas, thick interfacing and 10 oz canvas liner. I found sewing the edge on my flatbed machine first helps keep everything together. I have used standard straight binders in the past to good effect, but I'm just learning how to use the right angle binder and will admit the CB4500 is a beast and I may have been better off with the next size machine down, but that's what I have now and will eventually get it to work. I have used the CB4500 for top-stitching with heavy thread, v277 and it's been great for that. I"ll add a post later with photos, thanks for the tips!

[nylonRigging]

11 hours ago, JollyDodgerCanvas said:

Using V138 bonded polyester thread, the attachments are from KH, using the 25mm one now. I bought a "bias binding folder" to make my own binding material out of 10 oz canvas, cut on the bias. I also bought cotton webbing in three different thicknesses and had luck with the thicker material, keeping the needle down when turning is a good tip! I have had to use my awl a lot to keep the material from walking away from the edge. The fabric I'm binding is a composite of 24oz canvas, thick interfacing and 10 oz canvas liner. I found sewing the edge on my flatbed machine first helps keep everything together. I have used standard straight binders in the past to good effect, but I'm just learning how to use the right angle binder and will admit the CB4500 is a beast and I may have been better off with the next size machine down, but that's what I have now and will eventually get it to work. I have used the CB4500 for top-stitching with heavy thread, v277 and it's been great for that. I"ll add a post later with photos, thanks for the tips!

This particular 441 KH Binder that I set-up . I only have run about 250 yard of binding threw it so far, but overall I am pretty pleased with their hardware design .

Setting up Binders is always a small pain in ass and eats up many hours of your time till you get it all smooth and GTG . Every guy out there that been sewing for years has their own techniques for Binder set-up and personal built techniques for Binding.
Ok lets start here .
how did you set-up your binder and swing arm ? , your binder set-up is going to make or break the finished outcome. also synchronized binder is not as easy as ( for example )  a Needle-feed . Unison Feed, you need to witness the feet movement with the swing-arm, but try to get the binder head slotted-in as close as you can .

here a pic of what I usually do .. trim feet to get binder head in . I found their Foot in the set-up was really not what I prefer, so just grid/trimmed and Modified a stock Foot .
& Also DON'T Ask ??? why . .. but this model KH binder set-up has NO push-bar at exit of the throat . it's pretty ridiculous that they did not, as you Very Much Need tracking of the binding material exiting the throat of held firm as you feed materials against it .
..but for the Good price of the whole set-up they offer .. I DID NOT Bitch to much about the it at all....LOL

So I, Drill & Tap a small piece of angle then trimmed to work with the synchronized movement . I put a Red Arrow to show the piece of material push bar .
-

-

and this, the 1st Item tried binding on the new Binder Set-Up .

-

Edited June 15, 2022 by nylonRigging

[TonyGreen3455]

gents, reading your conversation and the first and only Q coming - is it worth it?
I'm trying to find a solution to bend a leather tape over the canvas or thing leather. genuine leather 0.5-1mm, not fabric tape. 
my inner designer and marketing director calling "Yes, we need it!" but my inner technician crying reading about all these possible troubles.
designer telling - "the real leather tape only, let's keep our level up!", but the technician does not understand how to bend it and pull it out through the binder to get a pro result.
KH mailing to me "90° binder is better for binding material with turns", but my common sense disagrees - "no, smaller angle better, keep it straight as possible due to leather friction" 
and BTW his KHF2 Raw Edge Binder can be fitted at 90° only.

so, custom-made binder - the only solution?
my inner bookkeeper has tensed up...

advice and suggestions you could give would be much appreciated

ps
my machine is DA669 and I'm in UK

[kgg]

36 minutes ago, TonyGreen3455 said:

my inner designer and marketing director calling "Yes, we need it!" but my inner technician crying reading about all these possible troubles.
designer telling - "the real leather tape only, let's keep our level up!", but the technician does not understand how to bend it and pull it out through the binder to get a pro result.
KH mailing to me "90° binder is better for binding material with turns", but my common sense disagrees - "no, smaller angle better, keep it straight as possible due to leather friction" 

Sounds like most of us when thinking about trying something new particularly when it could be expensive. The cheapskate in me always gets first priority until proven wrong.

i) The 90 degree binders I have measured have about 1.25 mm space so accommodating .5 - 1.0mm thick material through the binder itself shouldn't give much of a problem but bending the thicker / stiffer tape 90 degrees probably will be a chore. That is where a custom binder will or should solve that problem. To mount the 90 degree binder to the machine will also require a specific type of mounting frame. The bookkeeper ain't going to be happy with a that purchase.

ii) The standard inline binders I have measured have about 1.75 mm so accommodating .5 - 1.0mm thick material through the binder itself shouldn't be much of a problem. This style of binder can be gently pried to 2+mm. The bookkeeper would be happy. The downfall is you will need some sort of flatbed attachment to mount this type of binder attachment to cylinder bed machines. I have one for my LS 1341 clone.

iii) Some people have difficulty with binding irregardless of the style of binder attachment or binding material they use. To get acceptable results it is more then likely it isn't going to be a simple bolt on affair. It is probably going to require a bit of practice til you are satisfied with the end result.

Is there a chance you could post a photo of what you are planning on binding maybe someone can suggest a different solution.

kgg

[TonyGreen3455]

8 hours ago, kgg said:

Sounds like most of us when thinking about trying something new particularly when it could be expensive. The cheapskate in me always gets first priority until proven wrong.

i) The 90 degree binders I have measured have about 1.25 mm space so accommodating .5 - 1.0mm thick material through the binder itself shouldn't give much of a problem but bending the thicker / stiffer tape 90 degrees probably will be a chore. That is where a custom binder will or should solve that problem. To mount the 90 degree binder to the machine will also require a specific type of mounting frame. The bookkeeper ain't going to be happy with a that purchase.

looks like all I need - to disassemble common KH binder and put some wedge between a binder body and fitting bracket. it what my inner mechanic telling me. will it help?

ii) The standard inline binders I have measured have about 1.75 mm so accommodating .5 - 1.0mm thick material through the binder itself shouldn't be much of a problem. This style of binder can be gently pried to 2+mm. The bookkeeper would be happy. The downfall is you will need some sort of flatbed attachment to mount this type of binder attachment to cylinder bed machines. I have one for my LS 1341 clone.

can you show it - will try to find smth similar suitable in my case

iii) Some people have difficulty with binding irregardless of the style of binder attachment or binding material they use. To get acceptable results it is more then likely it isn't going to be a simple bolt on affair. It is probably going to require a bit of practice til you are satisfied with the end result.

Is there a chance you could post a photo of what you are planning on binding maybe someone can suggest a different solution.

sure - pls see a picture attached

kgg

 

[kgg]

Really nice edging in your photo's.

This was my solution for my KOBE LS-1341. This was done with no changes to the feed dog or presser feet. The binder was an inexpensive in line using a swing away binder bracket. This may spark your inner mechanic.

kgg

[TonyGreen3455]

1 hour ago, kgg said:

Really nice edging in your photo's.

This was my solution for my KOBE LS-1341. This was done with no changes to the feed dog or presser feet. The binder was an inexpensive in line using a swing away binder bracket. This may spark your inner mechanic.

kgg

that's it! 
it's wat I need to be done first - put a binder in-line
many thanks for sharing, inner mechanic got a point )

[kgg]

1 hour ago, TonyGreen3455 said:

that's it! 
it's wat I need to be done first - put a binder in-line
many thanks for sharing, inner mechanic got a point

Let us know what the inner mechanic comes up with. The Adler 669 looks like it got a lot of potential attachment points to mount things to.

kgg

[JollyDodgerCanvas]

On 6/14/2022 at 10:03 PM, nylonRigging said:

This particular 441 KH Binder that I set-up . I only have run about 250 yard of binding threw it so far, but overall I am pretty pleased with their hardware design .

Setting up Binders is always a small pain in ass and eats up many hours of your time till you get it all smooth and GTG . Every guy out there that been sewing for years has their own techniques for Binder set-up and personal built techniques for Binding.
Ok lets start here .
how did you set-up your binder and swing arm ? , your binder set-up is going to make or break the finished outcome. also synchronized binder is not as easy as ( for example )  a Needle-feed . Unison Feed, you need to witness the feet movement with the swing-arm, but try to get the binder head slotted-in as close as you can .

here a pic of what I usually do .. trim feet to get binder head in . I found their Foot in the set-up was really not what I prefer, so just grid/trimmed and Modified a stock Foot .
& Also DON'T Ask ??? why . .. but this model KH binder set-up has NO push-bar at exit of the throat . it's pretty ridiculous that they did not, as you Very Much Need tracking of the binding material exiting the throat of held firm as you feed materials against it .
..but for the Good price of the whole set-up they offer .. I DID NOT Bitch to much about the it at all....LOL

So I, Drill & Tap a small piece of angle then trimmed to work with the synchronized movement . I put a Red Arrow to show the piece of material push bar .
-

-

and this, the 1st Item tried binding on the new Binder Set-Up .

-

I took a look at some of my other binders and they do have that "tab" running past the edge of the binder outfeed. Strange how KH didn't include that. I'm using the KH binding feet, they seem to get the back of the binder touching the center foot so seem OK. Is that outfeed tab what would enable me to do curved work easier?

[nylonRigging]

10 hours ago, kgg said:

Really nice edging in your photo's.

This was my solution for my KOBE LS-1341. This was done with no changes to the feed dog or presser feet. The binder was an inexpensive in line using a swing away binder bracket. This may spark your inner mechanic.

kgg

 

-

Did you prefab. that plastic routing for the binding material  ? that looks pretty slick and clean .

.

 

 

[nylonRigging]

5 hours ago, JollyDodgerCanvas said:

I took a look at some of my other binders and they do have that "tab" running past the edge of the binder outfeed. Strange how KH didn't include that. I'm using the KH binding feet, they seem to get the back of the binder touching the center foot so seem OK. Is that outfeed tab what would enable me to do curved work easier?

Yes, for feeding materials it helps make sure that the binding's inside-outer edge is always consistently full and flush with the materials you feeding into it . It just one of those things that helps . ( my opinion ) you want push-tab to be at least as long, so matching where the machines Needle plunging stroke is .

.

[kgg]

3 hours ago, nylonRigging said:

Did you prefab. that plastic routing for the binding material  ? that looks pretty slick and clean .

Thank you. All my gadgets (Warlock Designs) are 3D printed and I only utilize the existing factory screw / bolt hole locations. The routing of the binding material has since been refined since that photo to accommodate those small runs of left over binding material material or homemade binding material where you only need / have about 30' feet of binding tape.

The newer version is basically a bobbin cup with an outside guide that can be used for binding material coming off large spools, small lengths and can also be table mounted for use with either domestic or industrial tables. The cup will hold binding tape up to about 2 1/2" wide. The revised version allows me to wind the binding bobbin which sits inside the cup from any winder (domestic or industrial) and I am able to use it on any of my machines (LSZ, 1181n, 1541,1341). The photo is of the bobbin cup being used in a table top arrangement on a little table for a portable walking foot machine that also has a drop down roller edge guide. I think that portable walking foot machine is the only one that has that type of guide.

The head attachment is also pretty versatile as it will accept other attachments like a long straight guides, folders, etc.