aluminum horn repair

[JanetNorris]

a customer brought in an older production saddle with a horn issue.  His horse spooked under a tree and the horn hit a limb and partially ripped off.  It looks like a cast aluminum horn.  There are no "legs" with screws in them, just a rounded mass of metal on top of the wood fork, with some fiberglas remnants.   It appears that the horn was held on by two screws up through the fork. into the horn base.

The fork cover is under the in- skirt rigging, and the nails holding the seat seem to be ring shanks.  I am having a bunch of trouble getting this thing torn down, and I really don't know if/how it can be repaired even if I get the fork cover off.  The intended use is trail riding.  Any ideas or suggestions out there?  Thank you in advance.-Janet

[rktaylor]

Janet,

Please consider that I am novice at this stuff, but from my perspective it would have to be a pretty good customer or friend, before I would consider the project. I will start by assuming you don't want to tear it down completely and send the tree for repair. If so, I would want to remove the swell cover and get at the heart of the matter. It looks like the metal fractured at the front of the horn, so that could create problems. I believe you can reattach the horn and fiberglass the swells around it. That would give it strength for trail riding, but I would be concerned that someone might try to rope in it. Maybe that's just the people I hang out with.   The swell cover also looks damaged, but if you get the horn repaired you can hide that by wrapping the horn with latigo or mule hide. I would also caution that you need to be confident in the repair (even with caveats to the customer) because it is leaving your shop as a repaired saddle. The bottom line is that I would have more time in the saddle than it's likely worth. That's why it would have to be a good friend or customer. Good Luck,

Randy

[BigSiouxSaddlery]

I don't have much to add to what Randy said.  I'd refuse to do the repair, and offer to help them find something better.  I'd have way more time in it than the saddle is worth, and still have a cheapish saddle.

[bruce johnson]

Janet, Three strikes in a row here. I wouldn't do it. I'd tell them to be happy it got them this far but anymore money into this one would be better spent towards another saddle.

- Bruce 

[JanetNorris]

Thank you RK and Big Sioux, that is about where I am at.  I have done a few repairs for this family in the past and would like to help them but the amount of work seems excessive and yes, not worth doing.  It is a Circle Y, which was a fair saddle back in my riding days but judging from the materials and fiberglas I am thinking this is not worth fixing.  The only alternative I can think of is remove the horn entirely and patch over the hole, and make it hornless.  I will share your opinions if you don't mind, so he won't think I am just being a wimp.  thanks again for taking the time to reply.

 

Oh thanks Bruce for chiming in just now.

Edited April 20, 2021 by JanetNorris
add reply to Bruce

[Ken Nelson]

Are you sure the tree is not broken?  

[JanetNorris]

Re the tree, there is no visible cracking, and a horn to cantle, and bar to bar squeeze has not discernable flexing or audible creaking.  

Edited April 20, 2021 by JanetNorris
clarity

[Goldshot Ron]

I was going to agree with the other comments until you said it was Circle Y.  They aren't my favorite saddle, but, it may be worth fixin'.  Their trees are decent, and their construction is pretty straight forward.  The swell cover will probably come off easily (well with some cussin'), but it is probably held on with just staples.  Does it have in-skirt rigging?  If it does, remove the skirts and what you need to repair should be easy to access.  The gullet cover will probably come off easily also.  Like Randy said,  this will let you see what needs to be repaired.  If it looks like a tosser, at least you have learned a lot about Circle Y's.  

If you continue exploring with the repair, keep us informed.  I would like to know what you find.

Ron

[JanetNorris]

Thanks Ron, 

The rest of the saddle is in pretty good shape so I do hate to call it trash.  It sounds like you have worked on a few.  Any hints on how to get the ring shanks out of the front seat button area, without ripping through the leather or cracking the front edge of the tree bars with my nail puller?  They are stuck down tight enough I can't get nippers under the nailheads to cut them off.

[oltoot]

Take pics and use them to remind yourself why to never use ringshanks when making anything. Remember that you might be the one who has to repair whatever it is that you make

[Northmount]

This may or may not work for you.  Centre punch the head of the nails, then drill until you go just through the head.  Pull the leather parts off, then cut the nails off flush with the tree or what ever layer you are going down to. 

I'm not a saddler, but that would be my approach.  Works for me on other leather projects and on woodwork repairs and projects.

[JanetNorris]

Thanks Northmount, I will try that when i get some time free again.  And i will post any progress made.

[tsunkasapa]

A Dremel with a fine grind stone may be an option.

[Goldshot Ron]

On ringshank nails I start with a nail/tack puller just enough lift the nail to expose the head, then with a set of nail pliers pry the nails out slowly using leverage.  Place a scrap piece of leather under the head of the pliers and rock the nail out.  Worst case scenario you clip off the head.  Then the leather lifts up and out of the way.  Now you can use the pliers to grab more of the nail and rock it out.  This way you don't rip the leather because you are finessing the nail out.  I do not recommend you a Dremel tool because it will heat up the nail and burn the leather.  Also, more chances of scaring the leather with the cutting head (been there, done that).  Like Oltoot said, don't replace the nails with new ones, "you may have to repair it" some day.