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  • Members
Posted

A solid base will also increase efficiency. I've given up trying to set rivets on my work table, which started life as a computer desk and is just too flexible for hammering on.

Btw, you can do leather work without stamping... ;)

  • Members
Posted

my tools for stitching are the mallet and chisel 

  • Members
Posted

The awl is silent and the gentle tap for just marking the stitches shouldn't carry through walls either. 

  • Contributing Member
Posted

and these are even quieter ~

Stitching pliers, 01s.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

until you nip your fingers with them!

  • Contributing Member
Posted

That is a 4-prong/tooth set of stitching hole pliers. I have these 4 prong and set with 2 prongs. You can go around a project and punch stitching holes in it very quickly and very quietly

Limits to them are; you can't go any further in tan about 20mm and the hole size and distance gap is set

 

You can also get ones with a larger prong for making lacing holes

  • 1 month later...
  • Members
Posted

A good way to get a marble or granite slab is from a kitchen countertop company.  They have many cut-out pieces that are waste.  They would rather give it away than spend $40 per ton to dispose of it in a landfill.  They will cut it to the size you want for a reasonable price.  Two-inch thick is better than a thinner piece.  Three-inches is probably not necessary.

Broken slate pool tables are good.

How to make sound deadening panels, cheap:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqodnHxRJ7c&t=1654s

DIY Active Noise Cancellation: 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqodnHxRJ7c&t=1654s

At Google Shopping, search for Sound Deadening Material.  Look for a high NRC (Noise Reduction Constant), the percentage of sound that is absorbed by the material.  The first link above details how to make panels from 2" thick rock wool, which has a NRC of near 100%.  Other material less than 1/2" thick has a NRC around 60% and multiple layers can be used.

  • 1 month later...
  • Members
Posted

so i am finally using a "mallet" and a weaver Diamond chisel to punch holes all the way through. the leather im using is cheap thin scraps. but for w.e reason i feel like im putting in much more effort and swings to get the chisel all the way though. some youtube videos ive seen people giving two light/ moderate taps. 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I6MZ576/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 this is the hammer im using.

 

is it normal to need a lot of force and maybe 5-7 swings to get a 6 tooth diamond chisel all the way through. 

  • Contributing Member
Posted

No, its not normal. Unless you are trying to go through very thick leather

Have you sharpened and polished the chisel teeth?

  • Members
Posted

no i have not polished or sharped, this is the first time using them since purchase. am i supposed to sharpen new diamond chisel out of the box?

  • Members
Posted

plastic cutting board from ikea which is on top of hard kitchen counter top not sure what material the kitchen top is but like a granit 

  • CFM
Posted
  On 9/3/2022 at 9:24 PM, StickHer said:

plastic cutting board from ikea which is on top of hard kitchen counter top not sure what material the kitchen top is but like a granit 

Expand  

Then I can think of no reason that you would have to pound it as you described. Unless the tool is THAT dull.

  • Members
Posted

i dont have the tools to sharpen it atm, idk if weaver sends out dull chisels. any recommendations on sharpening sets/tools

  • CFM
Posted

600/800 wet or dry sandpaper wrapped around a popsicle stick. Might go as fine as 1200. Crocus cloth will give it a nice polish.

  • Contributing Member
Posted
  On 9/3/2022 at 11:28 PM, StickHer said:

i dont have the tools to sharpen it atm, idk if weaver sends out dull chisels. any recommendations on sharpening sets/tools

Expand  

We don't know your location so we don't know what terminology you'll understand best. But I think you may be in UK or Europe?

Get some different grades of 'wet & dry' abrasive paper, available from a car accessory/parts shop, eg Halfords, costs about 60p/£1 per sheet. Get 320, 600, 800, 1200

Glue strips of these to lolly sticks (available The Works for about £1 per packet)

use these on the bevels of the chisel teeth/prongs, working from 320 to 1200. But also do all four of the sides of the teeth/prongs. Spend time doing this. A couple of hours or less, not just a minute or two

You should be able to get the chisels really sharp, sharp enough that with a very light pressure they will cut slots into a sheet of writhing paper

and, a personal thing to me; I don't like that sort of mallet. I gave mine away. I prefer a similar one but it has an 'ordinary' shape with flat round faces. Like this one; https://www.amazon.com/Leather-Carving-Hammer-Leathercraft-Cowhide/dp/B07H8BH9JR/ref=pd_rhf_d_dp_s_pd_sbs_rvi_sccl_2_13/143-2905049-6470749?pd_rd_w=VK8cg&content-id=amzn1.sym.a089f039-4dde-401a-9041-8b534ae99e65&pf_rd_p=a089f039-4dde-401a-9041-8b534ae99e65&pf_rd_r=ZGVW9JPVPPPCMSQJG7YJ&pd_rd_wg=Vg0YA&pd_rd_r=c2c5f3fb-02a8-4177-8940-f75a10c8369e&pd_rd_i=B07H8BH9JR&psc=1

I find I can give a better whack with it than the other

  • Members
Posted

thank you for the responses. will go to harbor freight to pick up sand paper and potentially a crocus cloth.   should i also invest in some sort of creams , gels, oils, wax, etc ?

  • Members
Posted (edited)

StickHer,

I like to use a Stanley or box cutter knife with premium blades. I strop the blade often on a strop made from a wooden paint can stir stick. Always strop the blade and you won't have to change it often. I use the Harbor Freight Green Compound stick on my strop....it's good and inexpensive at HF. Also, pick up a poly hammer with the screw in heads at HF. Good tools to start with. 

Oh, don't buy sand paper from HF. It is pure junk. Get good 3M sandpaper. 

-JOE

Edited by AlamoJoe2002
Harbor Freight Sand Paper Sucks

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