Sailrite Leatherwork Machine

[usmc0341]

I just got mine two weeks ago and couldn't be happier.  I have a Consew 255-RB2 that I could not keep consistent enough to finish a project.  It seemed like every time I would get one thing adjusted something else would go out of whack.  I was beyond frustrated with the Consew, so I bought the Sailrite and it is such a simple machine to make adjustments with.  I know people say there are so many better options out there, but I love mine.

[MtlBiker]

I have a Sailrite Ultrafeed LSZ-1 (Premium) machine and I love it.  I really didn't think I'd have much need of a zig-zag machine, but I'm surprised at how useful that feature actually is... Even if I'm not making zig-zag stitches, being able to move the needle position left, center or right within the presser foot is a great feature.  It makes it really easy to sew zippers (without changing the foot) and using the presser foot as a guide, just by the needle position I can get my 1/8", 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" seam allowances without any other guide.  I did change from the rather aggressive sawtooth presser foot and feed dog to their "knurled" set and for leather that's much better.  I generally use v92 thread but Matt Grant (of Sailrite) assured me that the machine would have no problem with v138 thread (top and bottom) as well.  But I haven't yet tried that.  With the current motor, I have no problem sewing through three layers of 7-8 oz veg tan leather with the v92 thread.

With the addition of their new WorkerB servo motor system and speed control the machine will have even more punching power and be even easier to control at slow speed.  I'm in line for one of their earliest shipments of the WorkerB upgrade.

My only nit with the machine is the rather small domestic size bobbin.  I wish it had a bigger bobbin.

And Sailrite's service and support, both pre and post sale are outstanding!  And their tutorial videos are super helpful and very well done.

Oh, a couple of months after buying the LSZ-1, I added the portable folding table they sell for the machine.  I love the combination!

 

[PlanoMike]

I received my machine, Sailrite Leatherworker w/ Workhorse servo and speed reducer, last Monday. Got it together in three hours and started practicing. The first thing I did was get a stitch length forward and backward set. I set it for 6 SPI which fits the vast majority of my work. After practicing for a few hours and getting use to its operation, I started sewing a satchel bag. The slow speed is real slow, easy to move along the edges sewing the gussets. Flat sewing is a dream, but the gussets weren’t as tough as I thought.

This is my first machine, and is perfect for me. A Semi-pro hobbyist. Easy to set-up, easy to use and maintain. Glad I bought it.

Edited September 26, 2021 by PlanoMike
And the price was very reasonable at $1,299.

[MtlBiker]

13 hours ago, PlanoMike said:

I received my machine, Sailrite Leatherworker w/ Workhorse servo and speed reducer, last Monday. Got it together in three hours and started practicing. The first thing I did was get a stitch length forward and backward set. I set it for 6 SPI which fits the vast majority of my work. After practicing for a few hours and getting use to its operation, I started sewing a satchel bag. The slow speed is real slow, easy to move along the edges sewing the gussets. Flat sewing is a dream, but the gussets weren’t as tough as I thought.

This is my first machine, and is perfect for me. A Semi-pro hobbyist. Easy to set-up, easy to use and maintain. Glad I bought it.

Congratulations!  That seems like a terrific machine!  If you like it anywhere near as much as I like my Ultrafeed LSZ-1, you will love it!

We’d love to see a photo of your satchel when you finish it. 
 

[Campleathergoods]

I have owned the Sailrite LS-1 and currently use the Sailrite Fabricator. I am a fan of both machines. I would say if you are going to stick with bags and smaller items you will be more than happy with this machine, but if you think you will stick with it, I would consider the Fabricator because of its larger working space for bigger items. The fabricator package is only $200 more than the leather machine and gives you much more workspace with all the power and slow control. 

[Campleathergoods]

On 9/14/2021 at 3:39 PM, kgg said:

If I am not mistaken the Tandy Pro Master is the Sailrite with a Tandy Label on it. I think you may find using a top thread of V138 and also V138 in the bobbin is going to be difficult. You may have better success using V138 top and V92 in the bottom but this all depends on what type of leather and how thick. The machine will max out on a # 22 needle which is the min. size needed to sew with V138 in soft material. For tough or thick material you need to go up at least a needle size to give a little space so the thread can form a loop properly or you get skipped stitches. It really comes down to what you would like to sew.

If you are liking the Sailrite line of machines I think their Fabricator would be a more overall robust machine. If availability of parts, accessories and build quality are the deciding factors by a Juki.

Buy Once, Cry Once.

kgg

 

Correct, the Tandy Pro Master is made by Sailrite, a lot of folks confuse this thinking that one is a copy of another. They are sailrite machines that they made specifically for Tandy.

[PlanoMike]

I am several weeks into my new Sailrite Leatherwork machine. I am glad I got it. I’ve also received the left and right zipper feet which I immediately file the saw teeth on the bottoms low and round. Tested on some dark brown 6oz oil tan. Left very light marks that were easily rubbed out. Also, I have very little pressure set on the presser feet. 
I’m using the left only foot with gives me the 3mm space to the right edge of the leather.  This is the typical stitch spacing for wallers. I can put an edge guide tight up where I want it. 
I take off the left foot and use the right foot when I’m stitching guessets. Let’s me get get up very close. 
Additional good news…I have been successfully using #138 bonded nylon tread in both the top and bottom together. On western goods, I like the thicker thread. 
My only complaint is setting the stitch length. I like to use several different lengths depending on the project. I have some marks on the controller, but I still have to play around with it to get it where I want.  
I highly recommend this machine if you on a budget. If money is no object, get the Cobra Class 26.

Edited October 8, 2021 by PlanoMike
Wasn’t finished

[kgg]

2 hours ago, PlanoMike said:

My only complaint is setting the stitch length. I like to use several different lengths depending on the project. I have some marks on the controller, but I still have to play around with it to get it where I want.  

I am glad you are enjoying your new machine. Something to keep in mind with the stitch length is it will change slightly (more stitches per inch) as the thickness of material increases.

kgg

[PlanoMike]

On 10/8/2021 at 7:14 PM, kgg said:

I am glad you are enjoying your new machine. Something to keep in mind with the stitch length is it will change slightly (more stitches per inch) as the thickness of material increases.

kgg

thanks for the tip. I would have never guessed that.

[Wizcrafts]

On 10/8/2021 at 7:14 PM, kgg said:

Something to keep in mind with the stitch length is it will change slightly (more stitches per inch) as the thickness of material increases.

6 hours ago, PlanoMike said:

thanks for the tip. I would have never guessed that.

The reason the stitch length gets shorter as the thickness increases is because of the pendulum effect of the top pivoting needle bar. The swing is always longest at the bottom of a pendulum and decreases as you move up towards the pivot point. Think of the throat plate height as the bottom. As you reach the limit of thickness a machine can negotiate, the needle enters higher up, closer to the pivot point, causing shorter stitches.