Adler 169-73 Binding kit

[Michiel]

Thread size 20 shouldnot be a problem for your machine

make some stitches by hand on a smal strip of leather without the lid right of the neelde (so you can see the upperthread pass the bobin)

my gues is ther is too less  space for the tread to pass the underside of the needle plate

maybe the bobbincase lifter is not adjusted for bigger thead (or it is missing at all)

 

[Michiel]

Or post a picture of your hook/bobbin

[Freerite]

Hello guys!

@nylonRigging 

Those are some serious skills that I can only admire to!  Thank you for the thorough explanation of the process and those little tricks that you suggested. I actually managed to get some inside curves while I still had the binding attachment attached to the machine but never managed to get is as clean as you have showed in the example. I think it's mainly because of too many layers that I have, even when sticked together I found it quite hard to make the material and binding work together well. (thickness of everything is around 6.5-7 mm. /1/4"/) That's why I decided to leave the binder for now and do the 'binding' manually in two steps. It takes more time for sure but I find it a bit easier and also manageable for me and my skills so far. Those inside turns that I showed earlier in the thread are done the second method but I found my mistakes and have improved ( a bit) although I have not taken photos.

@Michiel 
Thank you for the suggestions! I redid the timing of the machine and also rethreaded the machine. Thread 20 worked like butter even with Needle 120! (I also bought 140 because I thought that's the issue before)
I'll leave some photos of some example pieces. 

[nylonRigging]

23 hours ago, Freerite said:

@nylonRigging 

Those are some serious skills that I can only admire to!  Thank you for the thorough explanation of the process and those little tricks that you suggested. I actually managed to get some inside curves while I still had the binding attachment attached to the machine but never managed to get is as clean as you have showed in the example. I think it's mainly because of too many layers that I have, even when sticked together I found it quite hard to make the material and binding work together well. (thickness of everything is around 6.5-7 mm. /1/4"/) That's why I decided to leave the binder for now and do the 'binding' manually in two steps. It takes more time for sure but I find it a bit easier and also manageable for me and my skills so far. Those inside turns that I showed earlier in the thread are done the second method but I found my mistakes and have improved ( a bit) although I have not taken photos.

Don't know if I have any ..." skills " ??? .  I will Seem-Bind objects that I have made more than a 1-k + of same thing . I will still screw-up something Binding them that I don't like, and then pick stitches and do all over again ....LOL
I only know about, what i do a lot, and the more repetition you do with an item your making/selling, the better you will get seam-binding those one types/shapes of objects .

Seam Bind is definitely not an easy discipline to just jump into . There just are are SOooo many ways of seam binding to learn with,  flat-beds, cylinder-beds, needle-feed, compound-feed, single-needle, double-needle . Then the types of different machine Binders setups with strait or 90 deg . then there a truckload of different types of binding materials also with naturals and synthetics, all with there own problems of feeding . It's a rare guy, who even has seam-bind hands-on knowledge with even 2 or 3 of the different numerous sew trade disciplines in sewing that involve Seam Bind .
.