Drawing A Straight Line For My Pricking Iron

[AzShooter]

I've made a number of holsters and always leave enough room for me to sand and get a decent edge.  I use edge cote and my friends and customers have been happy with the systems I've made for them.

I decided to branch out a little and make some wallets.  What a learning curve.  My biggest problem is stitching a straight line.  I use an edger to create a channel for the Pricking Iron but  with the leather I'm using for the interior I get no like and my edger gets filled with the leather.  I'm open to any suggestions to fix this.

I've ruined 2 Ostridge skins so far by having the lines not be 90 degrees through the entire stitch.  I think I now have it on my latest creation but I still need to lay out the design onto the back piece of leather.  I went very slow and just used a straight edge instead of edging tool to get my line.

First wallet came out O.K. from a pattern by Maker's Supply.  It's a tri-fold and everything comes out to scale.  My new venture is with Ostridge and that's been a bear.  I line the holster with pig skin but it doesn't want to take a sharp edge.  Perhaps  I need something stronger?

Left is deer skin, right is Python.  

[Wizcrafts]

I moved this question to the How Do I Do That section where you will get more answers. The Help Wanted section requires every post and reply to await approval from a moderator before they become visible. Further, Help Wanted is actually for people looking for help making things, as in subcontracted work.

[AzShooter]

Thank you.

 

[Hardrada]

Deerskin is not really something to use for wallets. It's too stretchy and even getting a clean, straight cut on it will be a chore, let alone get a line traced on it with dividers.

The way I do wallets is to use firm leather, cut a clean and straight edge, and then use wing dividers to trace a line for the chisels. I don't recommend using an edger to create a channel—why, I don't recommend creating a channel in the first place. Wallets being small items, you need to use thin thread, say Tiger 0.6 mm, which will lay flat and flush once you hammer it: you don't need a channel.

Edited July 4, 2021 by Hardrada

[fredk]

On a wallet, my first ever so far,  I

1. put the parts together using double sided tape

2. trimmed all the edges neat

3. used a Tandy  pen marker to mark a line where I wanted the stitching to be

4.  using that line as a guide I ran the wallet thru one of my sewing machines

4a The sewing machine is manual

4b I used a magnetic sewing guide to run the edge of the wallet against for consistent line to edge distance

4c. The sewing machine was set to about 8 stitches per inch

4d. I used a leather needle but no thread in the machine. It was only to make the holes

5. I then saddle stitched the wallet together using a very fine thread

[Handstitched]

G'Day, I mostly use kangaroo hide for wallets  , not sure if its available where you are?

I've also used a 1.2- 1.5 mm veg tan on the outside,so I can stamp a pattern ,  and roo skin for the inner. 

Have to admit I haven't tried snake skin or Emu skin. I have a few fish skins, and Cane toad skins , I could  try those I guess. 

HS

[Rahere]

While agreeing with @Hardrada on wallet leather being too thin to use an edger on, there's another issue to help on. Yes, keep it clear with a needle, but even more, keep it polished. Get some thick stiff leather, and cut a straight channel in it, quite deep. This matches the profile, so if you add polishing rouge to the groove and push the cutter in the opposite direction to normal, it'll polish and sharpen the edge.

[mike02130]

A wing divider will allow a nicer stitch  when doing a saddle stitch.  A channel keeps it from being slanted.  I cut one piece to size and I cut any overlapping pieces slightly bigger then glue and trim to size.  I find this results in a straight edge that needs very little sanding. I use goat leather which is difficult to mark,  I will run my wing dividers around the perimeter then I often have to do it again, an inch or so at a time then prick, then again and so on.  Often I will plant the first tooth on the line then lower the last tooth and press gently leaving a slight tooth depression to make sure I'm lined up.  A  rotary cutter works better on thin stretchy leather than a knife.  I make my pattern out of thick cardstock then use double-sided tape to stick it down and use that as my guide for the rotary cutter.

[Jholden0]

For wallets and smaller goods like watch straps, it may be hard to even use a wing divider.  Maybe not for everyone, but it was for me.  There is a tool called a castroviejo caliper.  It is a mini wing divider with a very fine tip.  For me, it has made a huge difference when trying to get straight lines on a wallet.  Also, try using very thin leather like a 2 oz for each layer.  The thicker the leather, the harder it is to punch an even stitching hole through each layer evenly.  The layers tend to shift.  If you prefer thicker leather, skive the areas where you will be stitching, down to a 2 oz or so.  This will help immensely.  

[AzShooter]

That's why I come here.  Great ideas all and I will incorporate them in my next wallets.

I made this one today out of Ostridge.  It was inexpensive, only $8 so I thought I'd give it a try.  I need to change the interior from pig skin to something that's not so flimsy.  

I was able to get a straighter stitch line by lining up a see-through ruler and using an awl to scratch the line.  I'll try a wing divider next.

Thanks for the advice.

Here's today's work.

this part really needs work.  Lines are straighter than the picture shows but the leather is too thin to work with and was a bear.

Edited July 4, 2021 by AzShooter

[Hardrada]

Are you gluing the pieces together before tracing the line and stitching?

[Rahere]

17 minutes ago, Hardrada said:

Are you gluing the pieces together before tracing the line and stitching?

I don't recall anyone taking a wider sewing allowance to glue in, then sew, and cut the SA away. That way you get the best of both worlds.

[AzShooter]

58 minutes ago, Hardrada said:

Are you gluing the pieces together before tracing the line and stitching?

Yes, after everything is glued I draw the line and then stitch.  I may be wrong but I like glue instead of double sided tape.  I don't think the tape holds down the edges as well.

 

[mike02130]

3 hours ago, AzShooter said:

Yes, after everything is glued I draw the line and then stitch.  I may be wrong but I like glue instead of double sided tape.  I don't think the tape holds down the edges as well.

 

The tape will gum-up the needles.  Glue is better.  Do you have any lining to keep the cards in place in those tranche (slit) pockets?

Edited July 5, 2021 by mike02130
added info

[AzShooter]

2 hours ago, mike02130 said:

The tape will gum-up the needles.  Glue is better.  Do you have any lining to keep the cards in place in those tranche (slit) pockets?

I put a lining on the back and front plus the card slots all have Tyvex  to keep the cards centered.  The wallets also have RFID to protect them from electronic scanning. 

 

Edited July 5, 2021 by AzShooter

[Jholden0]

It looks like you may be starting out with leather pieces that are uneven.to begin with.  Try using a square to cut.  Use a very sharp box knife or razor of some sort.  Leave a trim allowance.  Then mark your lines with a wing divider of some type.  

[jcuk]

This maybe of help.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=haQSsoYZ3_I

Hope this helps

JCUK

[AzShooter]

Thanks again. All of this is helping me.  I appreciate it.