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bj139

Juki 1541S or Thor 1541S

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I have been looking at a 1541 type machine for a few months.  The price of the head only, which is all I want,  appears to be the same for the Juki or the Thor.  Which one should I get?  I thought I should get the version with the safety clutch on the hook shaft.  Is this a good idea?

Edited by bj139

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1 hour ago, bj139 said:

I thought I should get the version with the safety clutch on the hook shaft.  Is this a good idea?

I think having a safety clutch is essential on any machine. The extra $100 could save you a lot of dollars and frustration should you jam up the machine.

2 hours ago, bj139 said:

Which one should I get? 

If money is not the main factor always buy a brand name machine like Juki. When you eventually decide to replace the machine it will be easier to sell and will have a higher resale value then that of similar clone machine.

Buy Once, Cry Once

kgg

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2 hours ago, kgg said:

I think having a safety clutch is essential on any machine. The extra $100 could save you a lot of dollars and frustration should you jam up the machine.

If money is not the main factor always buy a brand name machine like Juki. When you eventually decide to replace the machine it will be easier to sell and will have a higher resale value then that of similar clone machine.

Buy Once, Cry Once

kgg

The beauty of this is they are the same price.  The Thor has the extra tension assembly and the easy walking foot height adjustment.

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Still the Juki better, the original rather than the clone, but nothing to stop you telling the Juki salesman/ woman you are comparing the two and have been offered extras on the Thor (whoever they are, never heard of them whilst Juke is the worlds first maker of sewing machines)

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1 hour ago, bj139 said:

The beauty of this is they are the same price.

For me that would be an easy decision. Juki, as their 1541S model is still made in Japan. Why buy a forgery from an unknown manufacturer with unknown parts that will have less value later on. Remember that the "Name" on the clone machines are not that of the manufacturer and quality can vary greatly.

kgg

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18 hours ago, kgg said:

For me that would be an easy decision. Juki, as their 1541S model is still made in Japan. Why buy a forgery from an unknown manufacturer with unknown parts that will have less value later on. Remember that the "Name" on the clone machines are not that of the manufacturer and quality can vary greatly.

kgg

Thanks, kgg.  I have a feeling most people here would have the same advice.  The resale part seems important as well as parts availability.  Are all Juki dnu-1541s made in Japan?

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3 hours ago, bj139 said:

Are all Juki dnu-1541s made in Japan?

When I contact Juki about another model about a year ago I did ask if the 1541S was still being made in Japan. At that time they were but had moved production of some models to the China and I think Vietnam. Will the quality remain the same, only time will tell. But their warranty is the same no matter where they are made. The best thing to do would be to drop them a email to be sure or a dealer as the box will say where it is made.

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56 minutes ago, kgg said:

When I contact Juki about another model about a year ago I did ask if the 1541S was still being made in Japan. At that time they were but had moved production of some models to the China and I think Vietnam. Will the quality remain the same, only time will tell. But their warranty is the same no matter where they are made. The best thing to do would be to drop them a email to be sure or a dealer as the box will say where it is made.

I will call before I order to verify.

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A company like Juki will have inhouse Quality Control to the highest standard wherever the machine is made at every step of manufacture

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I waited and a Singer 111W155 showed up.  I bought it for $175.  Can this sew 1/2 inch?  This one feels pretty tight.  It was used in a one person shop to do upholstery.

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May just fit but a tight squeeze and at its limits same with 207 if your lucky but normally 138 max

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On 9/25/2021 at 10:30 AM, bj139 said:

I waited and a Singer 111W155 showed up.  I bought it for $175.  Can this sew 1/2 inch?  This one feels pretty tight.  It was used in a one person shop to do upholstery.

No,usually 20oz (5/16")is max it will sew with the standard needle that comes with it,go any thicker & the needlebar will hit the top of the foot.

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18 hours ago, CowboyBob said:

No,usually 20oz (5/16")is max it will sew with the standard needle that comes with it,go any thicker & the needlebar will hit the top of the foot.

Can a longer needle be used and the needle bar moved up to re-time?

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3 hours ago, bj139 said:

Can a longer needle be used and the needle bar moved up to re-time?

You might gain 1/8 inch more capacity by using a System 190 needle. Nonetheless, the interconnected inner and outer foot bar cranks will probably max out at 3/8 inch working height.

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1 hour ago, Wizcrafts said:

You might gain 1/8 inch more capacity by using a System 190 needle. Nonetheless, the interconnected inner and outer foot bar cranks will probably max out at 3/8 inch working height.

Why do the Singer specs say 1/2" presser foot lift?  Is this just lift and not working height?

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On 9/25/2021 at 2:30 PM, bj139 said:

I waited and a Singer 111W155 showed up.  I bought it for $175.  Can this sew 1/2 inch? 

I think, if you are going to be sewing 1/2 " constantly you probably should be looking at a different machine. Yes, you may on occasion push your machine to do more then it was designed to do. But you run the risk of damaging other internal components.  If the 1/2" is going to be a regular occurrence or just a would like then you need a machine that can do 1/2" plus at least a 1/8" for your safety margin. It is better to run a machine designed to handle slightly over your needs then running a machine at it's design max and is definitely better then running a machine beyond it's design max. That then probably means looking at cylinder bed machine as they would probably be more cost effective then a flatbed capable of sewing 7/8" thick items.

kgg

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1 minute ago, bj139 said:

Why do the Singer specs say 1/2" presser foot lift?  Is this just lift and not working height?

My take on pressor foot lift is just the clearance from the bed to the bottom of the pressor foot for ease of getting items under and out from the needle. It would be nice if the manufacturers came out with a spec that said " the max sewing thickness is XX mm " just like they do for thread.

kgg

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17 minutes ago, kgg said:

I think, if you are going to be sewing 1/2 " constantly you probably should be looking at a different machine. Yes, you may on occasion push your machine to do more then it was designed to do. But you run the risk of damaging other internal components.  If the 1/2" is going to be a regular occurrence or just a would like then you need a machine that can do 1/2" plus at least a 1/8" for your safety margin. It is better to run a machine designed to handle slightly over your needs then running a machine at it's design max and is definitely better then running a machine beyond it's design max. That then probably means looking at cylinder bed machine as they would probably be more cost effective then a flatbed capable of sewing 7/8" thick items.

kgg

I have just one application where I am trying to sew a layer of nylon seat belt webbing to 3 other layers of webbing that are 3/8" thick.  The total might be 7/16" so I might be able to turn the handwheel by hand and sew it.  For most other things I have been sewing 3/8" should be more than enough.

Edited by bj139

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12 minutes ago, bj139 said:

The total might be 7/16" so I might be able to turn the handwheel by hand and sew it. 

Yes, I think all of us have had to hand wheel at some time or other. Remember to back off your pressor foot tension. The main pain is growing that third arm. One arm to guide the material, second to hold the top and bottom thread on starting the seam and a third to hand wheel. Oh, I forgot one to hold the reverse level down to reverse and lock the stitches.

Best of luck,

kgg

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22 minutes ago, bj139 said:

I have just one application where I am trying to sew a layer of nylon seat belt webbing to 3 other layers of webbing that are 3/8" thick.  The total might be 7/16" so I might be able to turn the handwheel by hand and sew it.  For most other things I have been sewing 3/8" should be more than enough.

A System 190 needle is about 3/16 inch longer than a System 135x16. That is total length. The distance from the top or bottom of the eye to the bottom of the needle might not give exactly 3/16 inch gain if raised all the way up. Your needle bar may still hit the top on the inside and/or outside foot. Moving parts inside the head might bind up at that height.

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1 minute ago, kgg said:

Yes, I think all of us have had to hand wheel at some time or other. Remember to back off your pressor foot tension. The main pain is growing that third arm. One arm to guide the material, second to hold the top and bottom thread on starting the seam and a third to hand wheel. Oh, I forgot one to hold the reverse level down to reverse and lock the stitches.

Best of luck,

kgg

Thanks.  One thing I don't have to worry about on the 111w155 is reverse.  One good thing is stitch lengths are the same in forward and reverse once I turn the material.  :)

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If the bottom of the needle bar hits the raising inside or outside foot, reduce the walking foot ratio to the absolute minimum lift. The lower the lift, the thicker you can sew with any needle system.

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1 minute ago, Wizcrafts said:

A System 190 needle is about 3/16 inch longer than a System 135x16. That is total length. The distance from the top or bottom of the eye to the bottom of the needle might not give exactly 3/16 inch gain if raised all the way up. Your needle bar may still hit the top on the inside and/or outside foot. Moving parts inside the head might bind up at that height.

Thanks.  I may try to get some system 190 needles and try it when I get time.

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