Made in the last few days

[Grunt]

Very nice!! Well done!

[Rocksnake]

On 8/14/2021 at 10:01 PM, Minnesota said:

I really want to try that diamond pattern with the shading. Where do I start with that? Do you lay out the diamonds first or the central image first then lay in the diamond pattern around it? 

You can think of this diagram as a plane. Of course, it is also a plane. If you don't make the flowers inside and only make diamonds, here are the steps
1. Calculate the area you need to make, and then draw the diamond on the computer.
2. Extend the drawn diamond onto the leather.
3. Cut the line with a rotary knife.
4. Knock with the edge knocking tool, and pay attention to their relationship here.
5. Use the vertical grain tool to deepen the shadow.
6 cut out long and short lines with a rotary knife to make it look more natural.

[YinTx]

5 hours ago, Rocksnake said:

3. Cut the line with a rotary knife.

Swivel knife maybe?  Rotary knife would generally be used to cut all the way through the leather, not for carving...  Really nice looking result, either way!

YinTx

[Klara]

Actually, would a swivel knife be necessary for long straight lines?  I am asking as somebody who hasn't done any tooling. But from what I've read the swivel knife is necessary for small cuts, curves, precision work? 

I don't have one and am trying to not buy any tools for a while. But I could cut with a kitchen knife and bevel with a screwdriver, maybe?

[YinTx]

1 minute ago, Klara said:

Actually, would a swivel knife be necessary for long straight lines?  I am asking as somebody who hasn't done any tooling. But from what I've read the swivel knife is necessary for small cuts, curves, precision work? 

I don't have one and am trying to not buy any tools for a while. But I could cut with a kitchen knife and bevel with a screwdriver, maybe?

I don't think a kitchen knife would be the best, but a sharp scalpel can work if used carefully enough.  Swivel knives can be pretty cheap, $10 plus shipping if you are really going to get into it well worth it.  The older Tandy knives are actually pretty decent once you get them sharpened up and oil the swivel bearing section.  Make a beveler out of a large nail, cut the ends off, file one side to the shape you need, voila.  If you don't have a mallet, make a whacky stick from a piece of wood.  This doesn't have to be an expensive hobby, but it certainly can be.

YinTx

[Rocksnake]

7 hours ago, YinTx said:

Swivel knife maybe?  Rotary knife would generally be used to cut all the way through the leather, not for carving...  Really nice looking result, either way!

YinTx

Sorry, I just checked the translation of this tool. It should be this“Swivel knife”

Edited August 16, 2021 by Rocksnake

[JayEhl]

Amazing work, to be sure.    I took the liberty of saving the image as my computer background.   That way I can study it more often.    

 

 

 

[Sheilajeanne]

On 8/10/2021 at 6:22 AM, Rocksnake said:

 

I'm not sure what your work looks like, could you please show me, so that I can help you

Okay,  FINALLY got around to taking photos! The change purse and wallet are projects I had stashed away in a box because I was unhappy with the way they turned out. The tote bag is waiting for me to add a lining to it.

The wallet is about the way most of my projects turn out if I antique them. There is some contrast, but not nearly enough. I applied two coats of either Super Sheen or Satin Sheen to it before antiquing. I honestly can't recall if I applied the resist to the whole project or just the area I wanted to protect. It was a long time ago!

I know one of the problems with the change purse was the texture of the leather. It would have turned out better if the leather had been smooth veg tan. Also, the tooling could have been deeper, but again, I think that had a lot to do with the temper of the leather.

The Molly tote bag was resisted with Resolene. As you will see from the picture of the panels before I assembled it, the finish turned out blotchy, even though I left it to dry for more than a day. I had this happen with a dog collar I did, too, only MUCH worse. It looked so bad I tossed it. And this was with me diluting the Resolene 50/50 with water. 

I've been so disappointed with the way the Tandy antiques turn out I bought some Fiebing's antique, but the results with it were no better. I can't remember which one I used on the tote bag. The other two were definitely Tandy.

 

 

What I've done lately is gotten a dark background by painting it with dye and a small brush, as I did with the front of this messenger bag:

 

Edited August 23, 2021 by Sheilajeanne

[Sheilajeanne]

Here's a better picture of the change purse:

 

[Rocksnake]

On 8/24/2021 at 1:19 AM, Sheilajeanne said:

Okay,  FINALLY got around to taking photos! The change purse and wallet are projects I had stashed away in a box because I was unhappy with the way they turned out. The tote bag is waiting for me to add a lining to it.

The wallet is about the way most of my projects turn out if I antique them. There is some contrast, but not nearly enough. I applied two coats of either Super Sheen or Satin Sheen to it before antiquing. I honestly can't recall if I applied the resist to the whole project or just the area I wanted to protect. It was a long time ago!

I know one of the problems with the change purse was the texture of the leather. It would have turned out better if the leather had been smooth veg tan. Also, the tooling could have been deeper, but again, I think that had a lot to do with the temper of the leather.

The Molly tote bag was resisted with Resolene. As you will see from the picture of the panels before I assembled it, the finish turned out blotchy, even though I left it to dry for more than a day. I had this happen with a dog collar I did, too, only MUCH worse. It looked so bad I tossed it. And this was with me diluting the Resolene 50/50 with water. 

I've been so disappointed with the way the Tandy antiques turn out I bought some Fiebing's antique, but the results with it were no better. I can't remember which one I used on the tote bag. The other two were definitely Tandy.

 

 

What I've done lately is gotten a dark background by painting it with dye and a small brush, as I did with the front of this messenger bag:

 

你的作品看起来还不错！
Your work looks good!
下面这些是我染出杂志封面的效果用到的所有东西，当然你可以在你当地买到可以替代的液体及染料，我会在后面给你备注出来。
These are all the things I used to dye the cover of the magazine. Of course, you can buy alternative liquids and dyes in your local area. I will note them for you in the back.

 

文字有点长，请耐心看，我会备注中文，如果翻译不准确的话，你自己翻译出来
The text is a little long, please read it patiently, I will note Chinese, if the translation is not accurate, you can translate it by yourself
雕刻会使皮革有高低差，低的地方其实就是用来附着复古染料的，所以，雕刻时近可能的加大高低差，这个非常重要！
Carving can make leather has high and low difference, low place is actually used to adhere to dye restoring ancient ways, so, when carving near possible increase high and low difference, this is very important!
1.我使用盐基染料把背景颜色涂了.（如果你要整体皮革都要染色，请在雕刻完就开始，如果到了下面的步骤后面的话，颜色是进不到皮革里面的）
1. I used the base dye to dye the background color (if you want to dye the whole leather, please do it after carving, the color will not get into the leather after the next step)
2.将棉布裹紧实后蘸取“Craft”《水性仕上剂》涂抹皮革高处，我会涂抹2次，如果没有经验的话，你可以看皮革，第一次皮革会有潮湿的印记，第二次就不会有了，如果还有潮湿的印记的话，可以继续涂，这个液体的作用是在皮革上附着一层膜，
2. Will dip in with cotton cloth wrapped tight after take "Craft" "agent on water shi" daub leather high, I will apply 2 times, if there is no experience, you can see the leather, leather will be wet mark for the first time, second there would be no, if I have some wet stamp, can continue to, the function of the liquid is attached to a membrane on the leather,
颜色是进不去的。
Color doesn't go in.
（下面的图是皮革切面，红色地方是涂抹“Craft”《水性仕上剂》的地方）
(The figure below is the cut surface of the leather, and the red area is where "Craft" is applied)

 

 

2.等待20分钟，让“Craft”《水性仕上剂》干燥，然后用牙刷蘸取“复古染料”开始染色
2. Let Craft dry for 20 minutes, then dip your toothbrush into the "vintage dye" and start dyeing
3.用毛巾把附着在高处的复古染料搽去
3. Use a towel to rub away the retro dye from the high spots
OK，下面是我的液体可以替换的
OK, here's what my liquid can be replaced
1，“Craft”盐基染料======》 Fiebing's<Leather Dye> 
1, "Craft" base dyes ====== Fiebing's<Leather Dye> 
Leather Dye&gt;
Leather Dye&gt;
2，“Craft”《水性仕上剂》=======》 Fiebing's<Leather Sheen> 
2, "Craft"《水性仕上剂》 ======= Fiebing's<Leather Sheen> 

Edited August 25, 2021 by Rocksnake

[Sheilajeanne]

Okay, have finally had the time to sit down and figure out just what you are talking about. The translation leaves a bit to be desired, but with the help of the English labels that are on the bottles, which you showed me in your private message, I now know what you were trying to say!

Please let me know if I've got this right:

First you apply a water based leather dye to the background areas, using a small paint brush (red bottle). 

Next, you apply an acrylic resist coat, what the translator calls the 'craft agent' (green and white bottle). This is the equivalent of Resolene or Tandy Super-Sheen/Satin Sheen. You apply this only to the high areas of the tooling, as you showed with the diagram with the red markings. You apply 2 coats of this, using a cotton cloth. You let it dry between coats.

Third step, you apply the Fiebing's antique (vintage dye, also translates as retro dye) using a toothbrush. You use a cloth to wipe the antique away from the high spots of the carving. 

I think the toothbrush will be a great help in getting the antique to fill in all the carved/stamped areas. You can see I didn't do a good job of that with the tote bag!

Thank you for sharing this, and thank you for your kind words about my leather work!

 

Edited August 26, 2021 by Sheilajeanne

[Rocksnake]

1 hour ago, Sheilajeanne said:

Okay, have finally had the time to sit down and figure out just what you are talking about. The translation leaves a bit to be desired, but with the help of the English labels that are on the bottles, which you showed me in your private message, I now know what you were trying to say!

Please let me know if I've got this right:

First you apply a water based leather dye to the background areas, using a small paint brush (red bottle). 

Next, you apply an acrylic resist coat, what the translator calls the 'craft agent' (green and white bottle). This is the equivalent of Resolene or Tandy Super-Sheen/Satin Sheen. You apply this only to the high areas of the tooling, as you showed with the diagram with the red markings. You apply 2 coats of this, using a cotton cloth. You let it dry between coats.

Third step, you apply the Fiebing's antique (vintage dye, also translates as retro dye) using a toothbrush. You use a cloth to wipe the antique away from the high spots of the carving. 

I think the toothbrush will be a great help in getting the antique to fill in all the carved/stamped areas. You can see I didn't do a good job of that with the tote bag!

Thank you for sharing this, and thank you for your kind words about my leather work!

 

Yeah, that's right. Good luck