New part of leatherwork

[Davm]

I've always used stamps since I figured that carving was beyond my skill level but now I want to give it a try.  I need a pastime that doesn't cost a lot. With leather carving I can spend a lot of time on a small piece of leather. I make knife sheaths and handgun holsters so that is my focus.  What are the easiest for beginners/ Floral? Leaves/acorns? Thanks for any help.

[battlemunky]

For me, none of it is easy! I struggle with every piece but I see improvement every once in a while. Start small and practice on a piece that uses a lot of the basics.

Edited September 15, 2021 by battlemunky

[tsunkasapa]

I have always been partial to oak leaves and basket weave. If you do oak leaves with pointy ends they are easier than rounded ends.

[billybopp]

I'd suggest start with some of the simpler Tandy Craftaids.  Craftaids take out the variable of tracing patterns.  I'd suggest one of the simpler flower templates and some celtic knots.  Celtic knots are deceptive!  They look simple, but the long smooth curves are good for learning to control your swivel knife and also for learning to bevel where one line dives under another to get you thinking about beveling.  

I'd also suggest using some scrap for some exercises - Just make some lines - learn how to ease your swivel into and out of lines - trailing off pressure.  Make some circles, make some S curves, then mirror them.  All good for learning control.   Just like practicing scales in music, or practicing your basic swing in golf.

Hope that helps!

- Bill

[PastorBob]

Joe Meling has some excellent carving practice videos with exercises you can do.  Also, Bruce Cheney as well as Springfield Leather.  

[Davm]

Thanks everyone

 

[Klara]

I'm at the same point in my leatherworking journey and I've rather enjoyed the videos by Jim Linnell on YouTube (he made some for Tandy). While there I discovered he has a website, a downloadable free video about the basics (pretty much the same as YouTube, but without the ads) https://elktracksstudio.com/collections/videos and a huge amount of videos for sale.

Some of them are currently on sale at half the price - I'm especially curious about the simple figure carving one where the only tools used are swivel knife and modeling spoon.

As for what to start with - I'd say something you really want to do. Personally, I don't care how many people say to start out with simple flowers - I couldn't care less about flowers (don't even like them in vases) and have zero interest in ever getting them on leather. I like @billybob's Celtic knot idea, though! And a nice big dog silhouette should be doable, too, I hope.

[battlemunky]

4 hours ago, Klara said:

Personally, I don't care how many people say to start out with simple flowers - I couldn't care less about flowers (don't even like them in vases) and have zero interest in ever getting them on leather. I like @billybob's Celtic knot idea, though! And a nice big dog silhouette should be doable, too, I hope.

I couldn't agree more aside from all of the different skills you have to employ to make the flowers as opposed to the Celtic knots. There are just a lot more chances to learn other than straight line cuts and beveling doing flowers. Once you nail them down never do them again unless someone wants to trade you some money for them ;) but take the skills learned while making them and apply them as you desire. Same with other Sheridan style stuff...I don't care for the motif but I'm trying to learn the styling so I can employ those techniques when making stuff I actually want to make.

By all means though, as Klara suggests, do what YOU want to do but there are skills to pick up from some of the other techniques out there.

[Davm]

Okay, took the plunge and made the square that is in Tandy's leathercraft manual.  It actually came out a lot better than I thought it would. On the shade/pearing- I need to get that deeper and on the beveling- better at that. The swivel knife cuts to start and the decorative cuts at the end- those went pretty good, as did the stamp work. I've done a lot of border stamp work etc.  In any event, I think I'll keep making the exact same pattern from the Tandy book until I get it right.  I really enjoyed it.

[PastorBob]

36 minutes ago, Davm said:

Okay, took the plunge and made the square that is in Tandy's leathercraft manual.  It actually came out a lot better than I thought it would. On the shade/pearing- I need to get that deeper and on the beveling- better at that. The swivel knife cuts to start and the decorative cuts at the end- those went pretty good, as did the stamp work. I've done a lot of border stamp work etc.  In any event, I think I'll keep making the exact same pattern from the Tandy book until I get it right.  I really enjoyed it.

pics please.  It will continue to get more fluid as you go.  proper casing of the leather will lend to the pear shading and beveling.  Also, I find that the better pieces of leather, like Hermann Oak, really make a difference vs. the import stuff with regard to crispness and clarity of stamping impressions.

[Davm]

On the pear shaping and beveling.  First the pear.  Do you stamp each depression? I saw a video that looks like the person was dragging by hand. I assume the idea is to bring out the edge. If you use the camouflage stamp first it seems some of the marks will get blotted out.  Now, the beveling. You are working with a V formed from the swivel knife.  Do you only bevel the outside?  How far away from the cut do you bevel? The angle of the tool itself?

[battlemunky]

Those are a lot of great questions @Davm! The answer to most of them are "it depends".

As you do more you will learn how much pear shading you need to do for a given spot but in general, unless its a very tight spot or you are using the pear shader a bit outside of what they are used for, you should walk it. Whether you use a mallet or are able to press hard enough is up to you and the application.

Again, usually, the camouflage tool gets used afterward to hide the edge of the work, camouflaging it up to the border.

Beveling is still a bit tricky for me and I don't rightly know all the answers. Sometimes you bevel both sides of the "V" but most times you need to look at the work and think about the depth and then decide which side should be dipping under the other and then bevel accordingly. Remember, it's all about establishing the depth so whatever needs to be brought forward should be beveled to look that way. As far as how far away from the cut goes, you want the toe of the beveler in the cut. Regarding angle, in most circumstances you want the tool as perpendicular to the surface as you can keep it. As you gain more experience you'll know when you can and should get away with angling the beveler to suit the application.

If you haven't seen @immiketoo's video on beveling on YT, you need to. Search for "cut less, bevel more" and you will get some wisdom.

[Davm]

Thanks. I've heard the "walking" before, what exactly do you do? Drag the pear along the surface of the leather? or, move the pear 1/16" stop and tap with mallet?  Or some of both?

[immiketoo]

This may help

https://youtu.be/LZp_ZI2XnzM