jonlrussell Report post Posted October 29, 2021 So I'm still in the very early planning stage of making a scabbard for my sword. The core will be wood with a leather outer. I'm still very new to leather working but I do know that using a chrome tan with a sword is a bad idea and using veg tan is really the way to go. But, I was wondering if using an oil tan would work. I didn't know if the oils would protect the steel from the salts in the leather, or if maybe the wood core would be enough to protect it.. I'm mainly asking because I have some nice oil tan I'd like to use for it, but if veg tan is really the only way to go that's what I'll do. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tsunkasapa Report post Posted October 29, 2021 Most oil tans are chrome tanned. And if the scabbard is wood and just covered with leather, then it won't matter what tannage you use. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hardrada Report post Posted October 29, 2021 What tsunkasapa said, only adding that veg tan is the way to go if you're doing decorative moulding; if you're not, it doesn't really matter, you can even use chrome tan if you want, which has the advantage of being more resistant to the elements. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted October 31, 2021 (edited) If you use 4 layers of veg tan . . . say 10 oz . . . 2 of them put together with Weldwood contact cement for the front and 2 for the back . . . you can put neatsfoot oil on the two interior layers to keep your sword from rusting. The contact cement will keep it inside the leather. Make sure to put a welt all around the outside of the sheath . . . and cut it so it fits within 1 1/16th of an inch of your blade. The welt should be 8 oz or so. Contact cement that welt to the back slde of the sheath. Next . . . mold the leather to your sword . . . by wrapping your sword in 8 or 10 mill plastic sheeting (two wraps is plenty) . . . and wet mold the two halves to your sword. Lay down a very smooth 1 x 4 board . . . cover it with parchment paper (your wife has it in the kitchen if she bakes). Lay down the back side . . . insert the sword . . . put on the front, carefully aligning the edges all the way around . . . more parchment paper . . . and another very smooth 1 x 4. Add several wood clamps the length of your sword and tighten them uniformly up and down the sword . . . not super tight . . . just enough to get the mold of the sword impressed into the center two pieces of leather. Leave it for an hour or so. Put the sword and leather parts in a cardboard box with a couple of 100 watt lightbulbs at the bottom . . . put a thermometer in there and keep an eye on it . . . don't let the box get above 145 farenheight . . . but you do want it to get up to 130 degrees. In at least 3 places . . . wrap plastic . . . then masking tape . . . to keep the pieces lined up while they dry When it is fully dry . . . it will be really hard . . . you can probably knock someone out with the scabbard alone. Oil the inside two halves of the scabbard . . . SPARINGLY . . . and if you want to do any stamping on the outside . . . put the sword back in . . . lay the bottom (keep it dry) on a couple of towels . . . and gently dampen the top outside layer with a sponge . . . and stamp your leather. Put it back in the box to dry. Contact cement the top to the bottom . . . sand the edges smooth . . . bevel . . . sew it and finish the edges . . . and you will have probably the best scabbard in your knights group or whoever you are "swording" with. You can from time to time oil your blade . . . just be careful about getting the inside of the sheath super wet with oil. That was the process I had devised for my own sword (see pictures below) as one of my alter egos is Centurion Salvatorus Antonio, the Centurion of Capernaum. I got behind in my schedule . . . and just ordered my scabbard . . . and it turns out it is leather made in a similar fashion as I explained. I would never hesitate to use that scabbard as a weapon itself if it was all I had. I think I could knock out a prize fighter with that thing. May God bless, Dwight Edited October 31, 2021 by Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Frodo Report post Posted November 16, 2021 On 10/29/2021 at 1:18 PM, Hardrada said: What tsunkasapa said, only adding that veg tan is the way to go if you're doing decorative moulding; if you're not, it doesn't really matter, you can even use chrome tan if you want, which has the advantage of being more resistant to the elements. All chrome tanned leathers retain chemical salts from the tanning process. Those salts will, with long-term exposure, have an effect on finished steel. Not only will it cause corrosion on blued steel, I have seen it cause what I call "freckling" on stainless steel guns. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hardrada Report post Posted November 16, 2021 51 minutes ago, Frodo said: All chrome tanned leathers retain chemical salts from the tanning process. Those salts will, with long-term exposure, have an effect on finished steel. Not only will it cause corrosion on blued steel, I have seen it cause what I call "freckling" on stainless steel guns. Acknowledged. But, will those salts permeate through the wood to the steel? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Frodo Report post Posted November 17, 2021 (edited) 13 hours ago, Hardrada said: Acknowledged. But, will those salts permeate through the wood to the steel? I would not think so. Only area to be of a concern is the top where the hilt will rest on the edge of the wood and leather. Edited November 17, 2021 by Frodo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
