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Posted

Taper loc pulley sets  ain’t cheap. Also you can’t get as much speed reduction that way. Going from a 4 inch to an 8 inch handwheel only gives a 2-1 reduction, while the commercial speed reducers are something like 3-1. 

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Posted
7 minutes ago, 327fed said:

the commercial speed reducers are something like 3-1.

Exactly! That's the ratio when the motor feeds the large reducer pulley and the small reducer pulley feeds the machine. My Family Sew motors have very small 45 or 50 mm pulleys (~2 inches). The total reduction from the motor to the balance wheel on my cb4500 is 9:1. AT the slowest motor speed setting, with my foot feathering the pedal, I can watch grass grow as it sews.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

Posted

I'm really not understanding the pushback here. Did no one read my previous post?

I'll post the two relevant parts again.

Here's the cost for everything except the 40mm motor pulley.More torque at the machine. An hour to fit. What's the reduction for a 250mm and a 40mm Wiz?

 

IMG_20201016_002924.jpg

 

 

Posted
2 hours ago, toxo said:

I'm really not understanding the pushback here. Did no one read my previous post?

I don't think of it as so much as pushback but on this side of the pond, at least where I am, the cost of those items would be much greater then the £30 ($50 CAD) you paid. The taper bearing alone would be probably be £30 ($50 CAD) or more depending on the size and to get a decent pulley the cost would be £60 ($100) or more. Not everyone feels comfortable in modifying their machine so for a little more money it is easier just to order a speed reducer setup and belt that is mounted under the table mount. 

If the machine is used and or the motor is older I would recommend replacing the motor with a newer servo motor. Then if the speed still needs to be further reduced add a under-the-table speed reducer setup.

kgg

Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

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Posted

I think the pulley change is great if it works for you. In my case (Consew) I could not find machine shaft size without pulling off. I figure metric on a Japanese machine. Lots of SAE pulleys here, metric not so much.   I could not figure how to release handwheel. I guess they have setscrews I could not find. I figured I needed to use a pulley puller which might damage handwheel. I have no idea where I would get handwheel replacement if damaged. I made my own reducer and someone here said I should have bought a factory one. Everyone here has a different situation. Shop skills and tool availability, access to commercial sewing machine dealers, hobby or sewing commercially, international access to parts and supplies, broke or not. I applaud your resourcefulness just maybe not for everyone. 

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Posted

I once had a pressed sheet steel pulley w/bolt in hub from a hay bailer on a perforating machine I modified.  Probably a 24" dia pulley.  I eventually took it off and added a speed reducer.  I did it as I found it unhandy to grasp when I needed to turn here and there by hand.    Still have another pressed steel pulley on a modified Champion stitcher.

 No push back really Toxo.  Your only flaw seems to be that you don't realize you're more mechanically inclined than most that frequent here.

  • Moderator
Posted
7 hours ago, toxo said:

What's the reduction for a 250mm and a 40mm Wiz?

6.25:1

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

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Posted

The point I tried to make, and I am sure the original poster of this thread  is not needing all this, is what change in speed would you get for the same machine from original setup with 3/1 speed reducer VS changing the original handwheel to the larger pulley setup? Not sure what the machine in question had for handwheel diameter to start out. 

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Posted
39 minutes ago, 327fed said:

The point I tried to make, and I am sure the original poster of this thread  is not needing all this, is what change in speed would you get for the same machine from original setup with 3/1 speed reducer VS changing the original handwheel to the larger pulley setup? Not sure what the machine in question had for handwheel diameter to start out. 

I have learned over the years of doing this that some people have to learn lessons the hard way. People keep reinventing the wheel!

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

  • CFM
Posted
17 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

I have learned over the years of doing this that some people have to learn lessons the hard way. People keep reinventing the wheel!

could you explain also for the sake of the thread and reinvention lol. If this reducer would or wouldn't work on a sewing machine. I love mechanical things, theories and problems and this stuff is quite interesting.https://www.amazon.com/MLCS-9410-20-Amp-Router-Control/dp/B001NIK6PC

Worked in a prison for 30 years if I aint shiny every time I comment its no big deal, I just don't wave pompoms.

“I won’t be wronged, I won’t be insulted, and I won’t be laid a hand on. I don’t do these things to other people, and I require the same from them.” THE DUKE!

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