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Singer 307G2 Zigzag informations

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I want to give some valuable informations about the Singer 307G2 ZigZag sewing machine in this post. This is for helping sewing enthousiast that are trying to find informations, adjust, buy or repair  this kind of sewing machine.



First, i’m not a qualified technician by any mean. So if you find informations in my post that is not accurate, please share it with me. I will update my post.

The Singer 307G2 is a 6mm Zigag sewing machine. It has 3/8 of foot lift. Can handle easily V69 Nylon thread and use 135 X 17 needle system and 11 to 19 size needles.

The bobbin diameter measures 1" (25mm) and about 9/32" (7mm) thick. It’s the same the Singer 107W use. This is the same hook and bobbin case too.( Bobbin#210530)

I found the take up spring is the same that the Juki lu-563 Juki Part # : B3128-051-000 (B3128051000)

The tension spring of the Juki Lu-1508 fit perfect and it's stiffer ( Part: B3129-526-000)


Presser feet are the normal Singer/Juki Industrial

A little bit of informations about my personnal Singer 307G2. My machine was made in 1954. I buy it used. The bed was already repaint by a previous owner in gray. The machine need some work to make it sew perfectly. The spool pin on top of the machine is missing and the thumb screw on the stitch selector is broken.

The first problem was a broken thumb screw on the stitch selector. Unfortunatly, to this date I cannot find a replacement screw. When tightening this screw, the stitch selector cannot move and holding the stitch lenght. I found a simple rubber band work to leave the selector in place. Not esthetic, but fonctionnal!

Second problem was in straight stitch, the machine got a little zig zag. I found there is two way to adress this problem.

Let see how the mecanism is assemble to understand how to fix the problem. I have written letters and number on pictures to help identification of parts.

To remove any movement on the mecanism the easiest way is to remove the stitch lever by unscrewing screw number 5 and 6. With your fingers, move the shaft where the lever was mount. Move just a little bit the shaft (clockwise  or counterclockwise)and after that, rotate the hand wheel. Look if there is any movement. (see picture)


Take a closer look to this part:


Once you have found the sweet spot, where there is no movement, reinstall the stitch lever carefully. You shall not move the shaft! Retight the screw number 5 and 6 on the lever. If there is a very little zig zag, it can be compensate by tightening screw ''E'' just a little bit.Do it half turn at a time. See photo:



If you're not lucky there is another way. Remove screw number 1 to 6 and the thumb screw ''G'' ''H'' ''J'' . After that you can remove the black plate. The cover can be remove with a screwdriver. apply pressure near the ''J'' selector to push the cover out.





I remove the black stop block lever but it's not necessary. This was to picture a side view and the adjustement screw.

It's possible to find the sweet spot with zero motion by unscrewing letter ''L'' and ''K''. The ''K'' screw is a real pain in the a** to remove. I hade to cut the tip of a flat screw driver and hold it in a long nose vise grip to access the screw. Its near impossible to reach! After you have compensate a little bit, retight all screws and reassemble. Don't forget to adjust stich lever position using the easiest method.


Adjusting the left/center/right lever position can be done. Set the lever to the right position. If the needle is to close to the side of the needle plate, tightening the screw ''A''.

For adjusting the right position use the opposite screw ''B''

I hope this will help someone!!

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I have my 307G2 for some years already but it is the only machine that never required any major adjustments. So you really dived into it and explained it very well.

Thanks a lot for sharing this!!!

Maybe a moderator can upload the pictures directly into the above thread so they are safe for the future ;)

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I want to thank you @Constabulary, without your help, advice and tips, I would not have buy this machine! Feel free to add informations to this topic! It would be nice to add a lot of tips. It's a really capable machine!


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How to get maximum of the knee lift on the 307G2.


On my machine there was a difference of foot lift between the knee lift and the take up lever at the back of the machine. I found two ways to resolve this problem. It's possible to get the same lift from the lever and the knee lift. I found it annoying that the knee lift do not lift enought to release the thread tensionner.

First method is to take the maximum of lift in the linkage that goes from under the machine to the head. On my machine I was able to gain lift of 2-3mm because there was a little bit of play.

Tilt the machine back and locate the lift mecanism. There's a connecting rod that goes to the top of the machine. The tip of the rod can be adjust. First we need to release the rod from the mecanism that is operate when moving the knee lift.


Remove the cutter pin and set aside. Remove screw number 1 and 2. Set the mecanism aside. At the back of the machine there is an access door that is hold with two screws. Remove them and open the door.


The connecting rod can be adjust to be longer or shorter. I need to get it longer. First release the lock nut on the tip of the rod. Unscrew the rod to get it longer in the direction of the bed. Retight the lock nut. Reinstall the mecanism under the machine using screw number 1 and 2. Dont forget the cutter pin. Now the knee lift as gain some height.

Method number two  is to gain lift from the other end of the knee lift near the foot:

There is a collar on the presser bar that connect to the feet of the machine. First I mark with a sharpie on the presser bar. It's easier with a mark to see how much we move the collar. (Don't use anything that can damage the presser bar.)  The collar need to be lower to gain 1-3mm of lift. But, we cannot take much more than that. There is a risk that the feet will not reach the lower point and do not contact with the feet dog.


There is a hole at the back of the machine to access the screw on the collar.  Push up the take up lever and put something under the presser foot. The hole is now align with the collar so its possible to loosen it. Lower just a little bit the collar. Try not to turn the presser bar as it will turn the presser foot. Keep it align.


Retight the screw on the collar and put the foot of the machine down to make sure it contact the feed dog. Make sure the feet is align in straight position. Check how much gain you have when using the knee lift. It is possible to have the same lift from knee and from take up lever.


How to align the needle in the center of the feed dog.

On my machine when I set the needle in the middle position with the adjusting lever (Left, center, Right) the needle is not in the center of the hole. It is possible to adjust that.


There is a screw to loosen on the needle bar to be able to adjust the needle to the center.


After the first screw is loosen there is another screw for moving the needle. I tighten the screw to move the needle to the center.


When the needle is in the correct position retight the first screw to lock the mecanism.



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10 hours ago, Doxnet said:

On my machine there was a difference of foot lift between the knee lift and the take up lever at the back of the machine. I found two ways to resolve this problem. It's possible to get the same lift from the lever and the knee lift. I found it annoying that the knee lift do not lift enought to release the thread tensionner.

Clearly, your machine was messed up, when you got it. It has to be the other way around: less lift from the hand throw lever than from the foot/knee lift.

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Yes you're right @DrmCa the machine need a little bit of work. It's better now!

Today I open the gear box and notice the grease was old and dirty.


I clean the whole thing with Q-tips, Old t-shirt rag and brake cleaner. After that, I put new grease inside the gear box.


If you look carefully there is flat head screw on each gear. Those screws need to be loosen if the timing of the machine is not perfect. I'm not going into detail, the machine is sewing correctly for now.

Clean the needle plate is another thing that needed to be done. There is a lot of coat of old sewing machine oil on those plates.


I use a product that I normaly use on my barbecue grill. It's called bar keepers friend. It works really fast and easy. Took me 2 minutes per plate to scrub the old oil.


This is the final product. I also use it on the 307G2 plate. The previous owner did a bad paint job on the bed and spray the badge. It works great and it's gentle.






Edited by Doxnet

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Install a new stitch selector lock.

As I said in previous post, I have no screw to lock the stitch selector on my machine. So I try to find a solution...that not involve using a rubber band.

I put a plate at the back of the stitch selector. I had to grind the plate to fit and drill holes to be able to screw the plate. I tap the holes to fit screw 6/32. The idea was to have a plate to screw against.


There is not much place to drill holes so I choose small screw.


The hole will be cover by the black plate so I don't worry.


I have drill the selector and tap (1/4''). I choose a eye bolt at my local renovation store. I have to admit it's not the prettiest thing...



Now I can turn the eye bolt until it hit the plate. It hold the selector in place. No more need of a rubber band.




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I order a spool pin to replace the one that was missing. Can't find a direct fit so I order one that supposed to be fitting Singer 16, 16U and Consew 118.


In fact the pin was a little to big. I put it on a drill like it was a drill bit. I rub against the spool pin a file while spinning with the drill to make the pin smaller. The spool pin is now a perfect fit!






Edited by Doxnet

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Under the machine, the gearbox that drive the hook as 4 screws. Unfortunatly 2 of them was missing. I try to find new one on internet using the part list but I didnt find a direct fit. Part are hard to find sometimes with vintage machine.


I have as a main machine a Juki Lu-563 that needed a new needle screw. When I look at the part list I find that was the same thread screw that the screws missing on the 307G2. I test fit and it was true! The only thing is that a needle screw is in fact shorter, but long enough to be use.


I order a pack of 10 screws and install 2 of them. Here are the result! The plate is tight and the grease inside the gear box cannot escape and drip away.


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Buy a thread gauge. Once you know the thread pattern you can order cheap generic screws.

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If you have one correct screw you can borrow out of the machine most parts stores and old timey hardware stores have a tread gauge or a screw gauge to thread them into and get the size. Probably metric. 

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Great thread, I did own a Singer 307G2. It was a beautiful machine and I am now sorry I sold it. But I got what I paid for it, so no $ lost.

Anyhow, nice to see you showing others how to make it work. The part I could not figure out was how to thread the bobbin. :( So I couldn't use it. Just took up space. Now there is a good youtube video on how to thread one, wish I was able to find something on it back when I owned one. But hey, I have a Pfaff 138-6 now and I love that machine!

(44) Threading bobbin singer 307g2, 307 g2, 307 g 2, and other industrial sewing machines - YouTube

Edited by suzelle

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Threading the bobbin case is mentioned in the manual (not super clear pics though)


Other than that the hook is the same as on 107w and 143w so their manuals work in that regard as well.


Edited by Constabulary

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