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Posted

I know there isn't one answer to this question but I would really appreciate some advice. I need a starting point. What size thread would companies like Hermes, Channel etc generally use for their handbags (purses). I'm about to purchase some thread and before I make that investment, I need some advice.

Thanks!!

Posted
  On 1/14/2022 at 6:14 PM, ThoughtFission said:

I know there isn't one answer to this question but I would really appreciate some advice. I need a starting point. What size thread would companies like Hermes, Channel etc generally use for their handbags (purses). I'm about to purchase some thread and before I make that investment, I need some advice.

Thanks!!

Expand  

I think that before anyone can suggest a thread weight to you, they'd need to know what you're sewing.  I know you said handbags, but the type of material you use, as well as the thickness (not to mention how many layers) all are a factor.  Also the machine you have might be a limiting factor as well.  Thread choice could also be affected by aesthetic concerns... do you want the thread/stitching to be an attractive visual or more unobtrusive.

I doubt there's a right answer to your question without knowing a lot more.

 

Current machines: Janome HD3000 and Skyline S5, Consew 206RB-5, Singer Profinish serger, Techsew 2750 PRO, Sailrite LSZ-1 Premium, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

Posted

Oh, one more thing...

You say you want a starting point for thread weight before you "make that investment"...  I would suggest that thread cost is minuscule in the overall scheme of things for your projects.  The machine, the fabric/leather, needles and other accessories certainly are a bigger investment than a few spools of thread.  I use everything from heavy duty thread (consumer thread) on my home machine, to v69, v92 and v138 threads on my other machines.  Then my choice of which thread to use is based on the material I'm sewing, the strength required and the look I'm after.

Maybe you should start with a bunch of different weights and experiment to see which you like better with your material and machine.

Current machines: Janome HD3000 and Skyline S5, Consew 206RB-5, Singer Profinish serger, Techsew 2750 PRO, Sailrite LSZ-1 Premium, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

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Posted

OP: Are you asking what size holds up over the typical lifespan of a bag/purse or what size looks good?

69 is sufficient for most purses. 92 is sufficient for larger bags. But if you want decorative look then you can go up several notches to 277 or 346 or above.

Machines: Mitsubishi DB-130 single needle, Kansai Special RX-9803/UTC coverstitch, Union Special 56300F chainstitch, Pfaff 335-17 cylinder arm walking foot, Bonis Type A fur machine, Huji 43-6 patcher, Singer 99 hand cranked, Juki DDL-553 single needle (for sale)

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Posted

69 is a good general all rounder for ladies handbags but 92 for heavy veg tan versions

Mi omputer is ot ood at speeling , it's not me

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Posted (edited)
  On 1/14/2022 at 6:54 PM, MtlBiker said:

I think that before anyone can suggest a thread weight to you, they'd need to know what you're sewing.  I know you said handbags, but the type of material you use, as well as the thickness (not to mention how many layers) all are a factor.  Also the machine you have might be a limiting factor as well.  Thread choice could also be affected by aesthetic concerns... do you want the thread/stitching to be an attractive visual or more unobtrusive.

I doubt there's a right answer to your question without knowing a lot more.

 

Expand  

Fair point. Here's a few examples of the type of thing I want to achieve.

https://www.hermes.com/us/en/story/106191-birkin/

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/handbags/_hermes-Gold-Epsom-Constance-To-Go-Wallet-Gold-Hardware-2021

https://www.saksfifthavenue.com/product/tory-burch-ella-nylon-tote-0400013631916.html?dwvar_0400013631916_color=OCEAN SIDE

 

Edited by ThoughtFission
Typo
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Posted
  On 1/14/2022 at 6:59 PM, MtlBiker said:

Oh, one more thing...

You say you want a starting point for thread weight before you "make that investment"...  I would suggest that thread cost is minuscule in the overall scheme of things for your projects.  The machine, the fabric/leather, needles and other accessories certainly are a bigger investment than a few spools of thread.  I use everything from heavy duty thread (consumer thread) on my home machine, to v69, v92 and v138 threads on my other machines.  Then my choice of which thread to use is based on the material I'm sewing, the strength required and the look I'm after.

Maybe you should start with a bunch of different weights and experiment to see which you like better with your material and machine.

Expand  

A valid point. I've already made the investment in all of those things (except the leather,but  I live in Hermes country in France so it's actually quite reasonable). Thread, however, is really quite expensive for the good stuff.

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Posted
  On 1/14/2022 at 9:19 PM, DrmCa said:

OP: Are you asking what size holds up over the typical lifespan of a bag/purse or what size looks good?

69 is sufficient for most purses. 92 is sufficient for larger bags. But if you want decorative look then you can go up several notches to 277 or 346 or above.

Expand  

The latter, what size looks good. Is the 69 you're referring to TEX or Ticket Number or something else altogether? I'm absolutely lost when it comes to thread sizes.

  On 1/14/2022 at 9:22 PM, chrisash said:

69 is a good general all rounder for ladies handbags but 92 for heavy veg tan versions

Expand  

Thanks!

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Posted
  On 1/15/2022 at 12:54 PM, ThoughtFission said:

The latter, what size looks good. Is the 69 you're referring to TEX or Ticket Number or something else altogether? I'm absolutely lost when it comes to thread sizes.

Thanks!

Expand  

I think this is what you meant by 69, correct? Size 69 / Tex 70 / Govt. E

Posted
  On 1/15/2022 at 2:12 PM, ThoughtFission said:

I think this is what you meant by 69, correct? Size 69 / Tex 70 / Govt. E

Expand  

Yes the thread size 69 and 92 refer V69 (Tex 70, Tkt 40) and V92 (Tex 90, Tkt 30. A good reference table for thread sizes / strenght and needles sizing can be found at ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ).

kgg

Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

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Posted

69 appears pretty thin and barely noticable, to the eye. 92 is more prominent, on a product. It's subjective, after all: for some, even 346 is not prominent enough.

Machines: Mitsubishi DB-130 single needle, Kansai Special RX-9803/UTC coverstitch, Union Special 56300F chainstitch, Pfaff 335-17 cylinder arm walking foot, Bonis Type A fur machine, Huji 43-6 patcher, Singer 99 hand cranked, Juki DDL-553 single needle (for sale)

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Posted
  On 1/15/2022 at 2:48 PM, kgg said:

Yes the thread size 69 and 92 refer V69 (Tex 70, Tkt 40) and V92 (Tex 90, Tkt 30. A good reference table for thread sizes / strenght and needles sizing can be found at ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ).

kgg

Expand  

Such a useful chart! Thank you, thank you, thank you!!

  On 1/15/2022 at 4:04 PM, ThoughtFission said:

Such a useful chart! Thank you, thank you, thank you!!

Expand  

And hello to a fellow Canuck :) I'm originally from Toronto.

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Posted (edited)

I don't know what Hermes actually uses, and it probably varies from product to product.  But I know a couple of guys who go for that Hermes look in their bags and they use 0.4 to 0.5mm linen thread, typically fil au chinois.  That is 138 to 207 in machine thread size.    

Edited by Spyros
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Posted (edited)

I just stumbled across this while looking into thread sizes and thought folks here might find it useful. Great conversion chart.

https://www.wawak.com/48d13d/globalassets/catalogs/mlt/thread-size-conversion-chart2

 

Edited by ThoughtFission
Posted

From what I’ve seen, most companies use less than 107, that’s ONE ZERO SEVEN, because they know that they can skip the industry standards and cut corners!

use at least a 135, or heavier 

Doc Reaper

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Posted

When they cut corners, they also use smaller than 69 thread in the bobbin :(

Machines: Mitsubishi DB-130 single needle, Kansai Special RX-9803/UTC coverstitch, Union Special 56300F chainstitch, Pfaff 335-17 cylinder arm walking foot, Bonis Type A fur machine, Huji 43-6 patcher, Singer 99 hand cranked, Juki DDL-553 single needle (for sale)

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Posted

Yea right, they make a few thousand dollar handbag and cut corners on the thread. so that's how they build there brand up as high quality

Mi omputer is ot ood at speeling , it's not me

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