What size thread do designers typically use in handbags?

[ThoughtFission]

I know there isn't one answer to this question but I would really appreciate some advice. I need a starting point. What size thread would companies like Hermes, Channel etc generally use for their handbags (purses). I'm about to purchase some thread and before I make that investment, I need some advice.

Thanks!!

[MtlBiker]

36 minutes ago, ThoughtFission said:

I know there isn't one answer to this question but I would really appreciate some advice. I need a starting point. What size thread would companies like Hermes, Channel etc generally use for their handbags (purses). I'm about to purchase some thread and before I make that investment, I need some advice.

Thanks!!

I think that before anyone can suggest a thread weight to you, they'd need to know what you're sewing.  I know you said handbags, but the type of material you use, as well as the thickness (not to mention how many layers) all are a factor.  Also the machine you have might be a limiting factor as well.  Thread choice could also be affected by aesthetic concerns... do you want the thread/stitching to be an attractive visual or more unobtrusive.

I doubt there's a right answer to your question without knowing a lot more.

 

[MtlBiker]

Oh, one more thing...

You say you want a starting point for thread weight before you "make that investment"...  I would suggest that thread cost is minuscule in the overall scheme of things for your projects.  The machine, the fabric/leather, needles and other accessories certainly are a bigger investment than a few spools of thread.  I use everything from heavy duty thread (consumer thread) on my home machine, to v69, v92 and v138 threads on my other machines.  Then my choice of which thread to use is based on the material I'm sewing, the strength required and the look I'm after.

Maybe you should start with a bunch of different weights and experiment to see which you like better with your material and machine.

[DrmCa]

OP: Are you asking what size holds up over the typical lifespan of a bag/purse or what size looks good?

69 is sufficient for most purses. 92 is sufficient for larger bags. But if you want decorative look then you can go up several notches to 277 or 346 or above.

[chrisash]

69 is a good general all rounder for ladies handbags but 92 for heavy veg tan versions

[ThoughtFission]

19 hours ago, MtlBiker said:

I think that before anyone can suggest a thread weight to you, they'd need to know what you're sewing.  I know you said handbags, but the type of material you use, as well as the thickness (not to mention how many layers) all are a factor.  Also the machine you have might be a limiting factor as well.  Thread choice could also be affected by aesthetic concerns... do you want the thread/stitching to be an attractive visual or more unobtrusive.

I doubt there's a right answer to your question without knowing a lot more.

 

Fair point. Here's a few examples of the type of thing I want to achieve.

https://www.hermes.com/us/en/story/106191-birkin/

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/handbags/_hermes-Gold-Epsom-Constance-To-Go-Wallet-Gold-Hardware-2021

https://www.saksfifthavenue.com/product/tory-burch-ella-nylon-tote-0400013631916.html?dwvar_0400013631916_color=OCEAN SIDE

 

Edited January 15, 2022 by ThoughtFission
Typo

[ThoughtFission]

17 hours ago, MtlBiker said:

Oh, one more thing...

You say you want a starting point for thread weight before you "make that investment"...  I would suggest that thread cost is minuscule in the overall scheme of things for your projects.  The machine, the fabric/leather, needles and other accessories certainly are a bigger investment than a few spools of thread.  I use everything from heavy duty thread (consumer thread) on my home machine, to v69, v92 and v138 threads on my other machines.  Then my choice of which thread to use is based on the material I'm sewing, the strength required and the look I'm after.

Maybe you should start with a bunch of different weights and experiment to see which you like better with your material and machine.

A valid point. I've already made the investment in all of those things (except the leather,but  I live in Hermes country in France so it's actually quite reasonable). Thread, however, is really quite expensive for the good stuff.

[ThoughtFission]

15 hours ago, DrmCa said:

OP: Are you asking what size holds up over the typical lifespan of a bag/purse or what size looks good?

69 is sufficient for most purses. 92 is sufficient for larger bags. But if you want decorative look then you can go up several notches to 277 or 346 or above.

The latter, what size looks good. Is the 69 you're referring to TEX or Ticket Number or something else altogether? I'm absolutely lost when it comes to thread sizes.

15 hours ago, chrisash said:

69 is a good general all rounder for ladies handbags but 92 for heavy veg tan versions

Thanks!

[ThoughtFission]

1 hour ago, ThoughtFission said:

The latter, what size looks good. Is the 69 you're referring to TEX or Ticket Number or something else altogether? I'm absolutely lost when it comes to thread sizes.

Thanks!

I think this is what you meant by 69, correct? Size 69 / Tex 70 / Govt. E

[kgg]

31 minutes ago, ThoughtFission said:

I think this is what you meant by 69, correct? Size 69 / Tex 70 / Govt. E

Yes the thread size 69 and 92 refer V69 (Tex 70, Tkt 40) and V92 (Tex 90, Tkt 30. A good reference table for thread sizes / strenght and needles sizing can be found at ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ).

kgg

[DrmCa]

69 appears pretty thin and barely noticable, to the eye. 92 is more prominent, on a product. It's subjective, after all: for some, even 346 is not prominent enough.

[ThoughtFission]

1 hour ago, kgg said:

Yes the thread size 69 and 92 refer V69 (Tex 70, Tkt 40) and V92 (Tex 90, Tkt 30. A good reference table for thread sizes / strenght and needles sizing can be found at ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ).

kgg

Such a useful chart! Thank you, thank you, thank you!!

Just now, ThoughtFission said:

Such a useful chart! Thank you, thank you, thank you!!

And hello to a fellow Canuck I'm originally from Toronto.

[Spyros]

I don't know what Hermes actually uses, and it probably varies from product to product.  But I know a couple of guys who go for that Hermes look in their bags and they use 0.4 to 0.5mm linen thread, typically fil au chinois.  That is 138 to 207 in machine thread size.    

Edited January 15, 2022 by Spyros

[ThoughtFission]

I just stumbled across this while looking into thread sizes and thought folks here might find it useful. Great conversion chart.

https://www.wawak.com/48d13d/globalassets/catalogs/mlt/thread-size-conversion-chart2

 

Edited January 15, 2022 by ThoughtFission

[Doc Reaper]

From what I’ve seen, most companies use less than 107, that’s ONE ZERO SEVEN, because they know that they can skip the industry standards and cut corners!

use at least a 135, or heavier 

[DrmCa]

When they cut corners, they also use smaller than 69 thread in the bobbin

[chrisash]

Yea right, they make a few thousand dollar handbag and cut corners on the thread. so that's how they build there brand up as high quality