Sewing next to a lump

[LePoisson]

Still very new to this forum and to leatherwork in general so please forgive my ignorance.

I have a sewing machine (Pfaff 545, walking foot) and I have some projects in mind for it, but I really have no clue what I'm doing. Most of the projects I work on involve either strapwork and hardware (BDSM stuff - so many rings and buckles) or wet-formed leather (folding knife sheaths). Can you sew these with a machine? Currently I just rivet everything together or hand-stitch but I'd like to play with contrasting threads, and I've been asked to make some machine-washable (webbing) items - the queue of small projects seems good as learning exercises on the machine. Everything I make involves sewing next to a ridge of some sort though... I can't see feeding it into the walking foot. Is there a way?

[TomE]

If you search the leather sewing machines forum for "inline presser foot" and "paddle foot." you'll see some options for sewing next to a raised piece.  I don't know the available options for your machine.  I use the inline presser foot for the Cowboy 4500 on my Cobra Class 4 machine.  It requires about 3/16" of edge allowance to operate.  If you have the option you can trim the edge after sewing.  In tighter spaces I sew by hand.

[Northmount]

@LePoisson This seems more of a machine question, so I have moved it to Leather Sewing Machines.

[RockyAussie]

The paddle foot @TomE mentioned can be seen in this thread on page 2.

 

[Wizcrafts]

The O.P. has a Pfaff 545, not a CB4500. The inline and paddle feet don't apply to him. Instead, he can look for a single right toe presser foot and a narrow inside foot that will get very close to hardware and raised shapes on the left.

[tsunkasapa]

41 minutes ago, Northmount said:

@LePoisson This seems more of a machine question, so I have moved it to Leather Sewing Machines.

Not totally true. MY lump sleeps in a bed under the stitching horse. And growls every time I hit the foot lock. 

Edited February 1, 2022 by tsunkasapa

[LePoisson]

4 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

The O.P. has a Pfaff 545, not a CB4500. The inline and paddle feet don't apply to him. Instead, he can look for a single right toe presser foot and a narrow inside foot that will get very close to hardware and raised shapes on the left.

Perfect Wiz - I'll have to order one of those and see if it works for me!

[Northmount]

15 hours ago, tsunkasapa said:

Not totally true. MY lump sleeps in a bed under the stitching horse. And growls every time I hit the foot lock. 

LOL!

 

[LePoisson]

Taking my thread sideways here - sorry for the poor netiquette.

So... Rifling through the drawer and I may have found a "Single Toe" similar to what Wiz mentioned. Or at least a part of one. I think I will still order a new one just to be sure it's all there. 

There was also a Schmetz needle pack which I believe will work for the stuff I'm sewing - reading the needles and threads thread, I think I want Bonded Nylon #69-#92 thread. These needles are Nm:130, which I believe are a little big, but passable for practice projects at least. The code at teh bottom of the pack for tip type is SY 7225. I think we are supposed to DP. What is SY? 

There was also a little pill bottle filled with needles in 2 different lengths. Is there any way to identify what all these needles are (size/tip)? Is there anything to beware of with the different lengths if I try using them? Should I just assume that these are old, dull needles and toss them?

[Wizcrafts]

I used to have a Pfaff walking foot machine (1980s). I believe it took System 134-35 needles. These are slightly shorter than the System 135x16 used in Singer 111 and clone walking foot machines. System 135x16 needles are about 1 3/4 inches from stem to stern.

[Matt S]

15 hours ago, LePoisson said:

There was also a little pill bottle filled with needles in 2 different lengths. Is there any way to identify what all these needles are (size/tip)?

Size is sometimes laser etched on, but you need keen eyes or magnification to see it. Class is rarely noted on the needle. If you're really keen you can measure it and compare it with manufacturers' drawings to make an educated guess. Tip is simply a visual check, most common are round blunt, round sharp, ball point for knit fabrics, LR/RR slanted cutting for leather etc, straight cutting for leather etc, and a few other odd shapes like triangle cutting. Run the tip down a piece of leather. If it cuts rather than scores or dents the surface it'll probably work to sew leather though it might not give you the look you're after.
 

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Is there anything to beware of with the different lengths if I try using them?

Yes, if you have the wrong class of needle your machine will not work. Too short and your hook won't form a loop, or maybe the needle won't even reach the leather. Too long and you'll get needle strikes, which can damage the machine or send bits of needle in a random direction. If you want to try a needle turn the machine over by hand a few times before switching on the motor!

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Should I just assume that these are old, dull needles and toss them?

Probably. Quality industrial needles of this common sort are £5 per pack of 10. Wrong/worn/damaged/rusted needles can cause a lot more than £5 of damage to your machine, work, person or sanity.