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if it is not necessary to remove the shaft better leave it where it is. such actions sometime cause more damage on parts that most likely are no longer available. My 2 cents.

Looking a photo 1 again I see what appears to be a pin on the left, notice the circular dissimilar coloration on the shaft.

Plate 467, part# 15152 singer 27-1, 2, 3. 4 parts.pdf

I would have expected something like this, or a tapered pin in the same place.

It does look that way in the photo, but I've checked and those holes go all the way to the shaft. (A bit of lint in the bottom of the holes casting shadows). Are there parts manuals for these old machines? All I've seen is the user manual: https://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/manuals/singer-model-27-number-2-vibrating-shuttle-sewing-machine-manual.pdf which does have somewhat of a drawing

Yeah, she was only 18 months old. Was fine one day and the next she was real lethargic and not herself. Ended up being kidney failure and they had no warning or signs there was a problem. It was only 3 days from noticing she wasn't well to having to put her down.

Practically everything is. Real EU made parts are EXPENSIVE. Chinese made parts are priced better. You get what you pay for though. Used price? 3500 and up.

Nicely done and a nice gesture !! Putting them is a hard thing .

@friquant In the first picture there appears to be screw slots inside the holes, maybe screws in there?

Thank You

How to remove the arm shaft from a Singer 27 ? Normally, I repair machines leaving them mostly assembled. To step outside of my comfort zone I decided to take one apart. I'm already dreaming of how clean I'll be able to get all the pieces ✨ But it's not clear to me how this arm shaft comes off. In the picture on the left, those two holes go all the way to the shaft. (Oil holes, I presume) 27-arm-shaft.mp4 There are few things inside that have to come loose also, but I'd like to get the arm shaft on its way out first: I think the arm shaft comes out the front of the machine. I removed the set screw just to the left of center in this photo: Inside the nose, with needle bar and presser bar removed: A couple interesting things about this machine, is it has a cam for the takeup lever, and a shuttle for the bobbin:

Artisan Toro 3000 heavy duty stitcher, 9" long cylinder bed, compound needle feed, walking foot, lockstitch sewing machine, complete with ArtisanESM-4002 Electronic DC Servo Motor, Sr-2 speed controller, EP adjustable pedestal, Lamp. extra needles, bobbins, bobbin winder, screw drivers, wrenches, oil and manual and work plate. Runs as good as the day I bought it.. Has been kept clean and oiled. Purchased new in 2005. Weighs 150 lbs, so it must be picked up. Located in Floresville, Texas. Price: $950.00 CASH

@KloverI found the thread where this was discussed. This link should take you to the page where the hammers are shown:

Thank you for the input! I'll definitely check out those images/videos. And thank you for mentioning the thread slippage. I hadn't even thought about that, but I will keep it in mind!

I made one a couple years back . . . he wanted the hammer and trigger fairly well covered He also wanted to wear it around his waist May God bless, Dwight

@Rick JorgensonThat is a nice rig, well done!

A single point sling has several advantages . . . the biggest of which allows you to pass the caretaking of the firearm to either arm effortlessly and quickly. Makes for entering or leaving a doorway very easy . . . as well as meandering thru bushes . . . or trails where overgrowth can get in the way. Allows one to reach down and pick up something on the ground or a table . . . without the possibility of stubbing the muzzle in the mud. I put a ring on the left side of my M1A just below the rear sight . . . and I love my single point sling when I'm carrying the rifle . . . the weight around the neck does not bother me as much as trying to carry it on a shoulder. it is also MUCH MUCH quicker to put into action than any other sling I've ever tried to use. May God bless, Dwight

Those are quite heavy duty, nice work!

@RockyAussie << @Klovermade some tests and posted images/video where he tested the tension for both the top and bottom thread when his machine was in balance. I seem to recall that the bottom was 1lb and the top 3lb. That being said, the thread path plays an important role as well. My preference, based on my experience, is to make sure that the top thread is wound 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 times around the tensioner on the left side of the machine. Thread slippage needs to be minimal here, wheel needs to rotate, or I get inconsistent stitch tension. There is no standard or correct one side fits all on these machines. Thread types and thickness change how you set up as well. Good luck with your new machine.

My friend had to put his dog down so I made this as a little memento, figure carving and coloring are 2 areas i feel i need work in, so at least its good practice.

These are awesome!!

Hello! My Cobra Class 4 just arrived. First machine, and I'm trying to get the tension right. Will usually be sewing 5-6 oz - 10-12 oz, so I'm hoping to hit the right tension that can be used for most of my projects so that I don't have to mess with it too much. Will probably stick to 277 bonded nylon thread. The top stitch looks okay for the moemnt, but the bottom stitch looks whacky. Should I loosen the bobbin/bottom tension a little bit? All I've done so far is loosen the top tension about 1 full turn (achieved through small increments). I turned both top tension knobs.

Hi trying to find approximate price range for an adler 205-370 made in germany? Also are parts available for this 15 year old machine?

Ruger LC9 Ruger LCP (1st. Gen) Taurus PT 709 Slim Taurus TCP Diamondback DB9 Diamondback DB 380 I have several of each (dozens of some of them) They were stored in the back room of a local shooting range. The range had a "Summer Cleaning Sale" and brought out boxes of items they had stored in back for years. I was told that when Laserlyte closed shop (or was sold?) that they brought cases of these to the range along with other stock that they needed to liqudate. They are definitely not the most popular models today Years ago when I started building Holsters I was using an old BB gun, a water squirt gun, anything I could practice with! lol! Official Rings Blue Guns were out of my price range to acquire ($35.00 to $40.00 each at that time) Now over $50.00! $7.00 each + actual USPS shipping cost (I will email an invoice for your to securely pay from) The range found another box they are saving for me to pick up. They said it has Taurus Judge Revolvers in it. I will post those once I see them and can be sure what model Judge they are. If you have any questions contact me... rick@desertgunleather.com Thanks for looking!