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I would; use a coin or something, draw round it for the curve, in ink. Then cut using scissors or shears on the drawn line. I find cutting out-side curves easier with scissors

I have a set of nail files for sanding snd i got a coin for the edges

I use a utility knife and this gets me pretty good results. I sharpen mine with 1000 and 2000 grit and then strop. Draw your radius using an awl and something of the radius you want. Bottle top or coin work good. Do it in multiple cuts and concentrate on keeping the knife perpendicular I make the first cut light and focus on following the line. I like to slowly rotate the leather as I move along On straight cuts use a ruler You can touch it up with a little sandpaper if needed. This will help if it isn't perpendicular.

Not exactly. A Swedish noseband lies in the same place as a regular cavesson or English noseband — on the nasal bone, about two fingers below the zygomatic arch — and it is closed under the chin. The concern comes from how this design is often used: to create more control by applying strong pressure. The nasal bone gets thinner towards the end, and with this type of fastening mechanism it is possible to cause real damage — in extreme cases even a fracture — if the noseband is tightened too much. It can also interfere with the horse’s breathing. The nasal septum lies just beneath the noseband, and restricting the nostrils prevents them from flaring properly. If you watch eventing or racehorses at full speed, you’ll notice how much their nostrils expand to take in air. Limiting that ability puts unnecessary stress on the horse. Hope my explanation helped a bit.

Ideally the crank, like any noseband, simply helps to keep the bridle in place. However, it can be (over)tightened to prevent the horse from opening its jaw and evading the bit. I am less familiar with how curb straps are used.

I'm not sure what you mean by hits the hook washer. Perhaps you can include some close-up photographs? On my Jianglong 341 I had to slide the feed eccentric farther down the hook driving shaft before I could move the hook close enough to touch the needle.

More specifically, what do you want to make out of the ballistic nylon and harness leather? What is the maximum total thickness (folds included) that you want to be able to stitch? The Pfaff 145 is a flatbed machine which is fine for upholstery jobs. Cylinder bed machines are more versatile for making three-dimensional objects, like sewing gussets on bags. Wiz' famous topic is worth a gander:

Hi, thanks. Pretty easy. I used fashion leather (round about 1mm) with the newspaper print. First I glued it to a 3.5mm thick strap of vachetta that was already cut to size, trimmed it to the edges, sealed the edges with black edge dye and finished it off with a saddle stitch and some Tokonole. On a note, the stitchmarks needed to be pricked quite deep, as they were otherwise really hard to spot.

Those look great. The last one, what's the lettering? How is that done

So is this nose band essentially like what a curb strap does, adding extra pressure around the muzzle instead of chin for better control?

Thank you kgg for your response. I want to sew through ballistic nylon and harness leather and it appears that this model will do the job. Because it was used by the grandfather of a 30 something year old I think it’s pretty old. I had not thought about replacement parts, so thanks for pointing that out. Again, I really appreciate your thoughts on this.

You're welcome. Have you checked HS Sprenger? I don't know where you can get them in the US, but here in Germany they are amongst THE suppliers for hardware for saddlers. You can only get it with a registered business as far as I know - maybe that's different in the US. I think they might have what you are searching for as they are more specialised in english tack.

Interesting use of your laser.

Hi Diane, Sounds like a complex operation. How about posting several pictures of the parts you bought and the machine it's going into?

Very nice!

Use a dime or coin as a guide and take small straight cuts.

So I am very new to leather crafting u have a set of basic tools from Amazon I am cutting out leather neckercheif slides for scouts tonight i made one for myself here it is having s hard time cutting the round coners using an exacto knife.

Coincidentally, I had a customer come to my shop yesterday with a dozen webbing straps that I had to sew together in pairs, at the loose ends, with a 3" overlap. I chose #138 yellow bonded polyester thread and used a #23 round point needle. I had to retime/advance the hook to avoid skipped stitches in reverse, and adjust the check spring throw, in addition to increasing the bobbin and decreasing the top tension. All of the tension changes will have to be undone when I have to sew a holster or sheath.

Thank you, @Tove09Tilda for your kind words. Welcome to the forum. Hope to see your work here. For the dee rings, these are a bit heavier than needed and I welcome ideas about different designs to pad them. I have seen a crank using a small ring with a tab that was buried between the end of the strap and the padding. It appeared that the tab had a slot and the stitching was placed into the slot to secure the ring. The underlying padding extended past the ring, similar to what you described, but it was a short overhang that looked tidy. I haven't found this type of ring/tab/slot at my usual hardware suppliers.

I'll definitely get some pictures. I'm not relying on memory to reassemble, although I've grouped related parts together in containers as I go. I've got a copy of a US Army technical manual with some nice exploded diagrams of all the parts, plus a US Navy guide with pretty detailed disassembly/reassembly instructions.

Hi all it’s been a while, I bought a front hub ,shaft , gear from a place in England . The gear hole is .003 smaller than shaft , is it a shrink fit ?, there is no set screw on gear . Any advice on installing this and the front balance wheel would be appreciated thanks

I bought these many years ago and never got around to using them. The large one is Back Cut Python and is 8 feet long and approximately 9.5 inches wide at my hand span. The smaller Tandy skin is probably 2 feet or so. The product number is no longer listed in Tandy's ever-changing catalog. But a fellow user ID'd it as probably Whip Snake, or similar. $180 for both, (+shipping) Shipping will be at my actual cost.

These look nice! And welcome from SE Wyoming!

And welcome from SE Wyoming, USA!

Would enjoy seeing pictures of the machine in its disassembled state, as well as how you've got the parts laid out for remembering how they go back together. The most I've removed on the singer 144 is removing the needle bar rock frame so I could grind a passage into it for a screwdriver to access the needle bar pinch screws. Everything else I fixed in-place.