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Oh, yeah, I remember this from the stitching question. Very nice. I thought that belt loop was odd but didn't make the connection. No, I've been spending my time tearing servo motors apart. We're also on the tail end of a heat wave and no a/c in my craft room. I definitely need to pick a gun and get on this. Maybe my PK380 would be a good candidate.

Very classy, I can see a lot of work (and leather!) went into it.

AIZilla... Did you ever work up your BTB? This is what I came up with. Works great for me. Very comfortable and concealable.

Man, you have you a massive amount of work into this. The challenge is that we normally want prices but this is kind a different situation. Let's tag the BossLady in here and see what she thinks, I'm sure it's happened before. @Johanna?

Here's a manual that says the foot rises 3/8" of an inch, so less then that: https://leatherworker.net/forum/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=149218

Hey everyone, I'm selling a bunch of vintage and antique leathercraft and cobbler tools that belonged to my dad. I put together a full numbered list of the items, and matched each one with a picture in this Imgur album: https://imgur.com/a/AjGKXD3 Each photo has a number in the description so it's easy to reference. The images are in the same order as the list. My dad bought a cobbler/leather shop in the 90s from a guy who had it since the 50s, and he had bought it from someone who started it in the 30s. So some of these tools are seriously old. One of them dates back about 165 years. A lot of them haven’t even been used in 30+ years. My dad’s close to retiring and I really don’t want to get stuck with all this stuff, so I’m trying to sell it now. I’m not in the trade myself, and I don’t have prices set so feel free to send me an offer for anything you’re interested in, whether it’s just one tool, a small bundle, or even the whole collection. Just keep in mind shipping is extra. It already took a ton of time just to identify and photograph everything, so figuring out prices on top of that was a bit much. If you want more pics or have questions about a specific tool, just ask me. I’ll help however I can. I'm in Montreal, Canada. I can ship almost everything — the only stuff I’d rather not ship are the bigger machines like the Singer 29K60. But if you’re seriously interested, we can see if there’s a way to make it work. I broke the list down into four parts: items in good/new condition with known brand/size items in good condition without brand/size info items in bad condition items I couldn’t identify (some might not even be for leatherwork) Here’s the full list: Mitutoyo 141-133 IMS-12" Inside Micrometer Rod Set, Not Complete Durex industrial 27-piece letter ⅛” letter stamps square (“J” missing) Pincers Cutter tool 10” Lasting Pliers with hammer tool Pincers Cutter tool 8” (3) Pincers Cutter tool 7” Cantle Pliers Pliers Cumbrian Made in England Cutting Nipper Eyelet Leather Punch/Driver Wiss Inlaid No. 20 Scissors Jeweler or Machinist Hammer with screwdriver C.S Osborne Draw Gauge Stitching Awl Wood Chisel Fuller (2) Singer 29K60 Singer 291U3 Landis Shoe Finisher Landis 5 in 1 Antique F.H. Smith MFG CO The Universal Press Punch Eyelet Hole Punch Machine Press (2) Shoemaker's Anvil Bench Vice Auto Soler Heel Wheel C.S OSBORNE #0150 ⅝ Strap End Punch (English Point) Kraeuter #27 11/16 Arch Punch Tool Kraeuter #27 ½ Arch Punch Tool C.S OSBORNE #500 3A Grommet Hole Cutter Kraeuter #27 ⅝ Arch Punch Tool C.S OSBORNE ½ Round Punch Tool C.S OSBORNE #245 3/16 Belt Punch Tool Kraeuter #350 Size 4 Rivet Setters C.S OSBORNE #151 1 ¼ Bag or Oblong Punch Tool Rare W.M DODD C.S OSBORNE #151 1 ⅛ Bag or Oblong Punch Tool Made between 1856 - 1861 C.S OSBORNE #216-3 Plain Grommet Inserting Dies C.S OSBORNE #216-2 Plain Grommet Inserting Dies Split-Head Magnetic Tack Hammer Singer C312 Scissors Set-Square Revolving 6-Hole Leather Punch (2) Maun Industries Spring Punch C.S OSBORNE #21 Size 5 Creaser Large C.S OSBORNE #21 Size 1 Creaser Large C.S OSBORNE #21 Size 3 Creaser Large C.S OSBORNE #21 Size 5 Creaser Small C.S OSBORNE #21 Size 3 Creaser Small C.S OSBORNE Double Line Creaser Size 2 C.S OSBORNE Double Line Creaser Size 3 C.S OSBORNE Double Line Creaser Size 4 Gomph Space Marker Size 8 Gomph Space Marker Size 5 Gomph Space Marker Sizer 7 Cat’s paws Rubber Heel 15-16 Twin Grip Brand New (2) Cat’s paws Rubber Heel 12-13 Twin Grip Brand New (2) The following items have no brand and/or size on them 55. Belt Punch Tool 56. Belt Punch Size 10 Tool 57. Oval Drive Punch 58. Knife 59. Digit “1” Stamp 60. C.S OSBORNE #21 Size ? Creaser Large The following items are in bad condition 61. Arch Punch ¼ 61. C.S OSBORNE #151 ¾ Bag or Oblong Punch Tool 63. C.S OSBORNE #245 5/16 Belt Punch Tool 64. C.S Osborne #147 Size 2 (⅛) Round Punch Tool 65. Priory Size 4 Belt Punch Tool Made in England 66. Belt Punch Tool Made in Japan No Size or Brand 67. C.S OSBORNE #147 3/16 Round Punch Tool 68. Priory Size 5 Belt Punch Tool Made in England 69. C.S OSBORNE #245 3/16 Belt Punch Tool 70. C.S OSBORNE Chisel The following items I don't know what they are. Some may not even be related to leather. See the images on imgur

This is the only machine that has this spring loaded shuttle race. Unless Adler's new one, 969 I think, does.

Not that I can find. Found one on setting neesle bar height bit not on turning shuttle timing. I figured it out and it's sewing but don't know what I don't know.

Hi everyone, I’m selling a SINGER 29K71 on behalf of a retired cobbler. I’m a shoemaker in Australia and I only have used my 29K71 for leather used in shoemaking, probably maximum 3mm thick. A person wants to buy it but they’re asking about the maximum thickness that this machine can stitch. The information I found on the net says 8mm. I tried to stitch two pieces of veg tan leather together (8mm) total and the leather doesn’t even move. The needle is going into the same position all the time. The machine stitches nicely on a lighter weight leather (2mm) but not with 8mm. Can someone’s share their experiences please?

Weaver has a good video on Youtube for timing your 205.

Here's how to replace the bearing on the gearbox end of the motor shaft. There is a big circlip on the motor side of the gearbox. (There will be a photo later) Make sure you remove that before you do any pounding This first image shows the gearbox after you remove the four cap bolts and pull the cap off. This model has two dimples in the shaft to mushroom it out to keep it on. I moved the dimples back inline with the shaft using punch, then used a 1/4 inch drive socket extension and a sledgehammer to drive the shaft out. Here is the bearing that needed replacement the most. Note the large circlip behind it---that's the one you have to remove before you do any pounding. Now that the bearing is out of the gearbox, I used a 3-jaw puller. By the way, notice the paint on this one is white. This is a second gearmotor (same make and model) from the same ebay seller. This time better paint, but still needed a new bearing. I replaced both bearings on the motor shaft, both are size 6203. I did not replace any bearings at the gearbox output shaft. They turn smoothly already, and they get a lot less revolutions than the motor bearings! Good news is, this motor runs semi-quietly with the new bearings. (Makes an oompah sound like you might imagine used as a movie sound effect in an eerie movie) I'll be replacing the motor shaft bearings on the other motor soon.

Nice work! I aspire to own a machine like this someday, so tucking these notes away for future me 😀

You should look at some of this guys posts. He's an experienced leather crafter who has recently done some projects with minimal tools. I don't know that he's created a list but I think a person could extrapolate a list from his projects. Click on his user name to get to his profile page from which you can see his posts. I'm no good at making lists like this. EDIT: here's the post I was looking for. He basically started from scratch:

Nice!

Hi all, I have been making salmon leather (russia leather style) for a few years now as well as some conditioner and wax all based off birch tar. They have become pretty popular in the area and I have people asking me if I can create some items like wallets and gunslings and use the salmon leather as inlay. There are no leather workers anywhere in this area that I am aware of. All things leather has my interest and so I would like to start learning, I have made a basic list to get started, if I am m issing something or you have any recommendations please do! - Utility knife / Xacto knife - Metal ruler + metal square - Japanese skiving knife - Hole punch - Stitching chisels (high quality) - Awls - Strap cutter - Stitching pony - Self healing cutting mat / board How does that look for starting?

Thank you, I'm currently taking the whole machine apart, cleaning it and putting it back together 😂

I have a large laptop with a 17" Screen so I decided to make a bag to fit it. The bag 17"X 11.5"X 4" I used 10oz vegtan for the front and back panels as well as the shoulder strap, 5oz for the center divider. I played around a bit with the shoulder strap attachment points and came up with a different design than what I've seen before.

Hi Romana, What material are you sewing? Does the machine make good stitches? Presser Foot Pressure On my machines I typically reduce the force of the presser foot because it's uncomfortable to lift the presser foot otherwise. But I'm stitching lightweight materials predominantly. @Wizcrafts is often reminding us that the presser foot must not lift off the table when the thread take up lever tugs on the top thread to complete the stitch. In some cases (stitching on corrugated plastic signs when i do not want to crush the signs) I remove the main pressure spring altogether. But for thinner material I have to put the spring back in or the feet don't contact the cylinder bed well enough. Lubrication In the case of the Pfaff 545, I needed to add a healthy dose of grease to the plates on the back of the machine where the knee lift connects---otherwise it was noisy and hard to move the knee lift. Comfort Grips Also in the case of the Pfaff 545, the hand lever for lifting the presser feet is so tiny and awkward that I wrapped some foam around it and held it in place with duct tape. This made it somewhat more comfortable to lift by hand. (The knee lift was much better after greasing)

Thanks for the reply friquant. I originally suspected the plates as well and really oiled it but like you said, I may not be able to really get the oil where it needs to be without taking it apart. I'll check that out this week and report back.

@larry1096 I see your loop design. it looks more maneuverable than mine. Its narrower at the fold so you can move the "ears" out of the way. Ill have to tweak my pattern to reflect that. Looks good

Hello, does anyone have instructions on how to adjust the back of the machine? It's a Pfaff 335 clone. It's hard to lift the presser foot.

Yup, it looks comfortable but I havent tried it on yet. Shame on me haha. If I wasn't in arizona (where wearing long garments is much frowned upon) I'd consider it for daily carry. I still could, AZ is open carry too. But I dont much care for broadcasting like that. Just me I suppose

I've found you can make your life easier (i.e., get some breathing room around the stitching) by being sure to run the rear flap straight down the body of the holster; requires tweaking where it folds, of course, but it's doable. Larry

Nice work!! high and tight holster.

Thanks, it is interesting and fun to make