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I went through this a couple of years back. Just a seeming few dollars more gets you a little more capability. Then, if you're at that level anyway, why not a little more money..? Such a slippery slope. Be interesting to find out where you land. 😃

Thank you.

Best use a roller buckle as those are easier to tighten and something that has some strength (chrome or nickle-plated steel or stainless; zinc die-cast may be ok, but check breaking load in the spec). Otherwise go for what you like best. Roller buckles are available in all kinds of finishes and widths. Lockable buckles exist too, but those are usually limited in width. Note that for lockable buckles you need an oblong punch for the holes instead of a round one and you can't use eyelets.

My first attempt at a Ranger belt for a mates brother... Roger

I looked for one, I couldn't find one on eBay.

You have failed to meet the requirements for placing an ad in the marketplace. If you don't remedy the problems with your ad within 2 Days I will lock and archive this ad.

Consew 226r has reverse Juki LU-562 with reverse Juki LU-563 with reverse(Same as the LU-562, but with a larger capacity bobbin) Singer 144w205 has reverse My pick would be the Juki LU-563 because of bobbin size, plus a great machine. The 144w205 will sew .750" of material and has an even larger bobbin than the Juki LU-563, plus a 20" throat. This would be the ultimate machine of the bunch. I absolutely have only needed reverse for nylon horse halters, I do not back stitch with a leather needle because it cuts the thread. You should be able to find a, ready to sew, Singer 111w155 for half your budget, but has no reverse.

Thank you so much, Wiz! I was actually just looking at the CB2500 when I figured I'd check notifications. Some time in February I'll call Bob and ask if they have a used one in stock. I mostly make cowboy style wallets and knife cases, but I have a couple belts I'd like to sew a liner onto and I simply don't have the time to hand sew everything.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/122464314844

Singer Part# 227561

By the way those excenter screws, assuming there is nothing pinning it in place you can see which side is the high vs low side by turning them in-place. Maybe the washer already fell out, either for you or for a previous owner?

@japty I moved you over to the Wanted section. i'd suggest starting with Toldedo Industrial. They're an advertiser here and enjoy an excellent reputation. 866-362-7397

Hi, Looking for legitimate dealers that sell used Juki and Adler industrial sewing machines. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thank you, Jim

maybe this helps: TORO3000_3200_4000seriesOperatorsManualVerSeptember2014.pdf

THANKS

I recently had the opposite issue - in reverse, I got horrible looping on the bobbin side. I was told to my needle was too small. A larger needle corrected the issue. Perhaps in your case try going to a smaller needle and see how this affects your stitch.

After several weeks and trips, I thought I would give an update. So far, the edges are holding up nicely. the “ antiquing” was also done with the acrylic paint, though it did leave a faint shmear, its not really noticeable. Richard

Yes new acquisition. I am no sure i was just trying to set the feeddog and seen the play

I'm needing a lift lever spring for a Seiko TE-5. It's more or less a clone of the Old Singer 17. I can't seem to find one for a Seiko or Singer (in stock anyway). Curious if any other machines used the same spring? I'd like to find one on eBay/etc for a few bucks rather than full fledged Seiko pricing. Looks like such:

Try the "tension release disc" from the old tensioner (the one with he small bar across the center hole) - just a guess. Looks like this one: https://armastore.eu/32572-singer-tension-release-disk

yeah thats the plan. open it up and see where it goes wrong. get some good lighting going and see whats what

@J Kellar There is another class of heavy duty sewing machine that can handle thick and dense leather, large thread and big needles. I refer to these machines as the 45 Class because they are based on the ancient Singer model 45. That machine was available with a fixed flat foot and with a flip up roller foot and had bottom feed only. I had one for a while when I first got into sewing heavy leather. It could handle #346 bonded thread with a #26 needle The maximum thickness was about 3/8 inch, although it could sew 7/16 in less dense leather. The modern equivalent would be the Cowboy CB2500, shown on this web page. You can read the full description there. It is a less expensive option if you don't expect to sew stacks of leather over 7/16 inch, or if tooth marks on the bottom and foot tracks on the top won't be a problem. Those marks can be pounded or rubbed out to a large extent. The main difference between a 45 class and a 441 class machine is that the 441s have triple feed that can walk up and down different layers without difficulty. The flat or roller foot would need you to lift the foot with the foot or hand lifter to climb up onto new layers. It would certainly handle knife sheathes and pancake holsters that only have two pieces being sewn together. Having had a Singer 45 and now having a Cowboy CB4500 gives me a good reference about the differences between these classes of machine. The only way I'd acquire another 45 machine was if I was going to be sewing tow straps or something else made of heavy webbing. You also asked about the best thread size for securing two layers of 10-11 ounce skirting. You'll definitely want to use #277 on the top and bottom. This calls for a #25 leather point needle and a lot of foot pressure.

I have heard folks on various machines say the tension is different in forward vs reverse. One option is to turn the material around instead of using the reverse feed.

You could ease into the machine sewing world with something cheaper and more common like the pfaff 545. That would at least get your wallet party going.

I can't always tell which parts on sewing machines can be bent. I've guessed wrong a couple times 💔