Various Types Of Sealer That Won't Rub Off On Flesh/clothes

[Casm]

So, I've recently found myself in a dilemma. I make gauntlets and got commissioned for a set that I had to dye and paint (fiebings hi-lite dye and paint on both) and now I'm left concerned that, though it doesn't appear to have any problem with water or rub-off now, that it might down the road.

The fiebings sealers I've come across seem to leave a very glossy finish, which I would like to avoid. So what's a sealer that can not only take being rubbed on itself (the gauntlets have jointed fingers that'll rub on each other) but can also take rubbing on skin and being wet really well without rubbing off on clothes or skin?

I've tried searching a bit and it looks like fiebings snow proof paste sealer is suggested fairly often. Are there others? Will this keep the dye in without rubbing off? Do I have to worry about the sealer rubbing off on clothes? Etc

[Glendon]

I'm still pretty new to finishes, and still learning, so take this with a grain of salt. That being said. there are three basic types of finishes as far as I can tell. You have oils, waxes, and acrylics. Oils are, Neatsfoot, the Mop & Glo trick, ect. For waxes, you have beeswax, Carnauba Cream, Gum Trag, and the like. In your case, Acrylics are of course your super sheen, Wyosheen, Saddle Lac (technically a lacquer but same effect basically), all that stuff.

Because you are making something that will have dyes touching skin for extended periods, you will probobly want to go with an acrylic. The first thing that comes to mind for this application would be Satin Sheen. It's not near as glossy as the other "sheens", but still pretty liquid repellant. It still might be too glossy for you, but that's the first thing I'd try.

[HellfireJack]

FYI: Mop -n- Glo is actually an acrylic. Gum tragicanth is a gum used for slicking not finishing. I wouldn't use plain oil a finish really. They're mostly for conditioning leather. Hope that helps you both.

In order of effectiveness against moisture I would say beeswax then acrylic then lacquer. It's all going to rub off eventually though.

I would use a mix of 50/50 beeswax/neatsfoot oil by weight. It's on the forum here over and over again. If I didn't have that then probably a few very thin coats of 50/50 resolene/water and If I didn't have that either I would go with a few very thin coats of wyosheen.

Edited September 10, 2012 by HellfireJack

[weaselrunner]

ok what is the ""mop-n-glo trick """"" dumb question time I know :>(

[Bob Blea]

ok what is the ""mop-n-glo trick """"" dumb question time I know :>(

Not a dumb question at all. Mop n glo turns out to be an acrylic sealer and some members here use it as a final seal (in place of resolene I think.) I have never used it myself but it's cheaper than resolene. I don't remember if it needs to be cut with water or if you use it full strength, but if you search around in the finish forum you will probably find references to it. I tried searching for the term 'mop-n-glo' but couldn't find posts on it. You might try searching on acrylic finishes and see what comes up.

Hope this helps,

Bob

[Northmount]

1347279638[/url]' post='263804']

ok what is the ""mop-n-glo trick """"" dumb question time I know :>(

50/50

CTG

[Bob Blea]

50/50

CTG

Thanks, I thought it was cut with water but couldn't remember and could find a link to the original post. I'm playing with finishes too right now so this helps.

Bob

[Tree Reaper]

I can't keep lacquer on anything.

It sticks to itself and that's it, everything I've used it on peels like a snake skin.

I don't have much use for it at this time.

[DoubleC]

I've had pretty good luck with resolene mixed 50/50 or the same would go with mop-n-glo. I haven't used it simply because I can't remember to put it on my store list but can remember the resolene when I order every month. I've not used waxes or lacquer. I do use bag balm to condition everything after the project is all finished. It would equate I guess to the waxes. I'm still learning, mostly by trial and error and error:-)

[Spinner]

Keep in mind, that while considered an acrylic finish, Resolene has a slightly aggressive additive in it (I believe it's a hardener/dryer) that will mess with acrylic paints, especially if you wipe it on. For acrylics in high moisture applications, I recommend using a matte varnish medium available from most any hobby/art supply store as a sealer coat for the paints and then apply your actual finish over the whole piece. The varnish will keep the finish from affecting the acrylics in a negative way and will give an extra layer of environmental protection. As for abrasion, rub any two pieces together long enough/enough times and you'll burn through the dye/acrylics eventually, there's just no way around it. It may take years in some cases but it's inevitable.

Cheers,

Chris