RWB

I guess I am slightly confused...... Why did you decide to get that machine straight from China? On the Cobra website that same machine is priced out at $2500. That come with everything, stand, head, motor, and it is pre-tuned with all the bugs worked out. Not to mention that you get all the service that Cobra offers. I'm not trying to be critical, just curious. Is shipping from the US to NZ more than $500? I don't own a Cobra so this isn't a sales pitch for them, again I'm just curious. Ross Brunk

I just sent you a Paypal money request, so as soon as I get it back I will ship it out. Thanks forth the smooth transaction. Ross Knife is sold.

Paypal works great for me. If you like, I can send you an invoice. Thanks, Ross

I have a very nice Theo Harrington round knife for sale. I have had it for a few years, and like it, I just don't need it anymore. It takes and keeps an edge very well. There are no pits or major rust just a nice patina to the blade. It is 4 5/8 inches tip to tip and 2 inches from the top of the brass bolster to the edge of the blade. It is stamped right on the blade Theo Harrington Southbridge, Mass. I am asking $125 obo. And it comes sharp. Thanks, Ross

That is pretty cool! I don't have that kind of imagination. Ross Brunk

So post some pictures already. I want to see what my competition is going to be like next year! The worst that can happen is you lose. Been there done that many times. Slap some photos up, I wanna see 'em. Ross

I appreciate that. It's just going to be hard to beat Don period. I don't have that kind of experience. He has a particular flair to his stamping that just makes it really pop. And the color. He had great color on that saddle. I haven't figured out what I'm doing wrong there, but his color was superb. I tend to get a real orange pumpkin color. Like on the saddle here, and I'm not a big fan of it. The cantle is just glued in. I was going to stitch that line, but figured glue would hold it. That Masters Cement holds like grim death. It's funny you mention that horn wrap. I was going to fix it it, but at that point after looking at that saddle for about a full year I didn't care. I know that is a really bad adittude, but I came at it the same way you did, and just said "Well it will burn off." Ross

Honestly I have no idea how long it took me. I pecked away at if for about a year. I made it for myself so it really didn't matter how much time i had into it. I appreciate you comments. Ross

Bruce, How are you sharpening your knives? I have a couple Rose knives that I used to really like, but they won't hold the edge that they used to. I can still get them scary sharp, but they will roll that edge pretty easy anymore. Almost like the temper got taken out of them, but I know I haven't. Just curious what your method is. Thanks, Ross Brunk

Thanks for the comments, guys. I appreciate them. I hope I didn't sound like I was disgruntled about the results of the show, Butler deserved to win and I didn't. Like Randy commented, Don is hard to beat. And I have seen first hand why, he is just really good. Bob, you have a pretty sharp eye, those skirts are off center. About 1/8th of an inch in fact. It was either that or my housings wouldn't fit tight against my back cantle on the off side. I was pretty pissed when I got to that stage and the were gapping a little bit. I can't figure if I fit them wrong or they moved and stretched on me when I stamped them. Maybe a little bit of both, I suspect I wish that I could get my lighting right to take more detailed photos of my stamping. Any tips or tricks? Maybe I need to use a different bulb. Ross Brunk www.nrcowboygear.com

Pretty cool, Bob. Clean and smooth as always. I guess I need to get out to my shop and practice more. Ross Brunk

I haven't seen many saddle pics up lately, and thought I would contribute. I took this saddle to Sheridan this year and was soundly beaten by my old boss, Don Butler, and a couple other guys. Oh well, as usual my skin is about a foot thick, so tell me what I did wrong. Keith Seidel was very helpful at the show and maybe some of the other guys here can point some things that he didn't. Thanks, Ross Brunk www.nrcowboygear.com

Sorry, all the stamps are sold. I had someone PM me, wanting all of them before you posted. I never thought they would go this fast.. Thanks, Ross

I have a few Barry Kings tools that I am selling. There is nothing wrong with them I just don't use them much anymore. I will combine shipping if you buy more than one, and will cut you a break on the price if you want all of them. I have tried to price them reasonable. See list and picture below. #1 Heart Border Stamp #3 Seven Seed Border stamp #2 Block Basket Stamp #3 Bar Basket Stamp #3 Eight Seed Flower Center #2 Eight Seed Flower Center #2 Barbwire Stamp this is a set of two stamps sold as a set #3 Horizontal Thumbprint Thank, Ross Brunk Northern Range Cowboy Gear www.nrcowboygear.com

Tree is sold.

I got this tree for a myself last year, and have decided that I don't really need it. It was custom made by Ben Swanke here in Billings. A really nice clean tree, measurements are listed below. Give me a call or shoot me an e-mail if you are interested. I paid $425 for it and I would like to get that out of it. Fork: 12" Buster Welch 3 1/2" Front to Back Horn: Texas Dally 3" Tall 1 3/4" Cap Cantle: 3 1/2 Tall 12 1/2" Wide Gullet 6 1/2" Front 4 1/2" Back 7 1/2" Tall 93 Degrees on Cutter Bars Thanks, Ross Brunk ross@nrcowboygear.com 406-672-1398 www.nrcowboygear.com

Please excuse me for being to simplistic, but I really don't understand the entire controversy of "saddle fit". Don't get me wrong I want to fit horses well just as much as the next guy, but when you get right down to brass tacks the fact is that we are STRAPPING and inanimate object to a moving animal and then sitting on top of him and asking him to do all sorts of maneuvers. With all of that going on, I think that is is inevitable that we are at some point going to sore horses. Again I understand that the comfort of the horse as well as the position of the rider is what we are trying to acheive, however there are always going to be horses that will never be comfortable under saddle, and there will always be people who can't ride for beans. We have become to obsesed with making "saddle fit" a science and not understanding that more of what is at stake is sheer practicality. People have become to concerned with how their saddle "fits" horses. They think about it to much and fail to understand that their pleasure horse is far more resilient to ill fitting saddles than they are. I can't tell you how many times I've had someone tell me "This saddle fits everything" and it turns out to be the cheapest factory saddle money can buy. But it fits in their brain and that's all that counts. Again don't take this the wrong way, I want to fit horses as good as we can, but there comes a point were to much thinking isn't helpful. In fact it more of a hindrance. I wish more people would just cinch their horse up and ride him instead of worrying about whether or not they will sore him. I wish that I could tell some of my customers that they never ride enough to sore a horse. Horses have put up with all kinds of ill fitting harness and saddle since the beginning of time. Ross Brunk

I just wanted to say thanks again. Keith, that was very helpful. I answered most of my questions. Now I just need to go out into the shop and apply it on the next one. Maybe one of these days I will be able to get away from the shop and come down to Cody and just stop and visit. It's always cool to visit your store. JW again always appreciate the input. Try dyeing some more edges, it gets addicting. Try some British Tan , it's not as stark of a contrast. Darcy, I appreciate the comments. I'll have to digest them and see how I change things on the next one. Again Thanks Troy again, thank you. It's always a pleasure to have you criticize something. Have a great day. Ross

Hi Troy, Thanks, not only for the compliments but the critique as well. Like I told Keith I appreciate it when someone is willing to help. As far as your opinion goes, your right some peoples opinions aren't any good, but I asked for yours because I value it. You have always been helpful and you do good work. As far as the cantle binding goes I think your right. I didn't like it when I got done with it either. How far off of my seat should I start my stitches? I did notice were my back jockeys come up a bit, but I had a hard time sucking them down tight without them. They had a lot of snap to them when I got done, but I think I need to compesate and cut them a little lower in the future. Again I appeciate it. Ross

Hi Everybody, I appreciate all the kind words. It helps to have other eyes on stuff to help a guy out. JW, I'm glad you saw that line running uphill. It seems like I always struggle with that line. I don't know why I have so much trouble with it. As far as the dyed edges go I pretty much dye all my edges except when it is a contract saddle or the customer doesn't want it. I just like the look of it personally. I think it gives a nice finished look to a saddle. Chas Weldon told me here recently that he didn't like the "painted" look that it gave a saddle, but I guess it is just a difference of opinion. Tell me what you think. Keith, I appreciate the critique. It was just what I was looking for. I would like to ask you a few question about your comments, and please don't think that I am questioning your judgment. I would just like to understand what you are saying better. So for starters my first question is about the front of my skirts. Why would I want to have a straighter line at the front of my skirts? Don't I want to match the full round look that the back of my skirts have? Question #2 What is to deep for the rigging to be? I as a standard I put the bottom of my rigging plate at 6 3/4 inches off the lowest part of my front bar pad. Should I be at 6 1/4"-6 1/2 inches? Question #3 Why is my front seat jockey to narrow? I can see where I need to lower it to match my back jockeys. I obviously failed to get those lines to match. But why do I need to raise it higher on my swell? Question #4 Why is my welt to high? Looking at my questions I guess I sound like a child. Why? Why? Why? Again I appreciate all your help. I hope that I am not a nuisance, and if I am just tell me. I'm glad that you had some good conversations with Dad. He is a pretty handy guy. Art, wood, sculpting, and pretty much anything else he puts his mind to he can do. And he does it well. Of course I am biased, but in spite of that I know he is good. Thanks again, Ross Brunk

Here is a Modified Association that I just finished.The customer wanted the fork pretty wide so I had the fork widened to 4 1/2 inch stock. A full inch wider from front to back than what Bill Bean normally makes them. The swells are only 4 inches of that there is a 1/2 inch lip on the front of it. It was pretty heavy and stout, but I kinda like the look of it. It has 14 inch swells. Tell me what you don't like about it. I always like the criticism. I tried to round that front jockey out a bit more. Tell me what you think, Troy and Darcy. I know both of you guys thought that on previous saddles that I didn't get it round enough. I guess I'm still working out what you mean by that. I'd like to ask for your critique as well, Keith. Anyway anything negative is welcome. For that matter anything positive is welcome to. I've got to find a better way to take photos. Thanks, Ross

What was wrong with the HO you got? Now I'm paranoid. Ross

Thoroughbred has decent skirting leather. I don't know what you typically use, but I use Hermann Oak on a regular basis. I used to use Thoroughbred a lot in the past, but hardly use it at all lately for several reasons. Like I said it is decent, but I had trouble with certain things, like it drops off really fast from the butt to the back. It will be a good 14 oz side in the butt and drop off to 9-10 in the back. The sides are also very long and narrow, great for reins but tough to get what you need out of them for saddles. I like to antique pretty much everything I stamp, but the Thoroughbred doesn't seem to take a good color. You have to oil the piss out of it for it to take any color. If you are using the walnut color that may not be an issue. It is also harder to cut with a swivel knife and tougher to bevel smoothly than HO. I also made a saddle for myself here last year that was just a plain roughout out of Thoroughbred, and after riding for a about six months the leather doesn't seem to have the same body that HO would still have after so little use. It is good leather. I don't mean to sound like I hate it, but I can now get a Midgrade HO side for the same price as the Thoroughbred. So I opt for what I prefer to use. Hope that helps Ross

Cool saddle, JW. Your saddles always have a clean look. They look ranchy to. I like 'em. Ross

Thanks I appreciate what you guys have to say. Bob, I just use Neat-Lac. I went out and bought a bunch when they said they were not going to make it anymore. I've used that Clear Lac, but I'm not real hot on it. I know that it is supposed to be the same formula, but I'm not convinced. I strips dye easier than Neat-Lac. I haven't tried that Wyo-Sheen that Sheridan Leather is selling. Clear Lac works fine and makes a great top coat. I'm just to picky I guess. I'll have to think about that front jockey. I just have a hard time not putting a straight line there. I like that flow that is has thru the seat jockey to match up with the back housings. I don't know, I'll have to study on that. Ross