RWB

Yep, one at a time. I timed it out and it took me about 45 min a leg. I don't know if that's slow or fast ,but it seemed like eternity to me. Thanks Steve and Ben I appreciate it. Ross

Here is a pair of chinks that I just finished up. The lady that I built them for, picked really good colors I thought. Critique and criticize away, you can't hurt my feelings with an axe. Ross

Post a picture. I use HO and would be interested in what it looks like. I can see that happening on the riggings were you stirrup leathers rub, but on the fender were your leg would ride seems odd. Ross

Johanna, I guess I don't see the side bar. I see that the logos are greyed out, but am still trying to find the "topics I'm watching" and "posts I'm watching". I'm probably just blind, but some guidance would be great. Thanks, Ross P.S. the new site looks great and is moving much faster. Ilike it.

Mike, That's kinda odd that you had to work at getting those edges slicked. We use that method here in the shop on all our harness because it is fast and effective. And I mean fast. We can slick a pair of reins in I think we have it down to like 4 min a pair. And it gets them really smooth It works well for us on latigo and bridle leather as well. Sorry it didn't work as well for you. What kind of harness leather are you using?. I generally use Thoroughbred. Ross

Mike, Use regular Feibings yellow or white saddle soap. Dip your leather in water and then really slick them with a piece of coarse canvas that has some of that soap on it. Harness leather slicks up pretty well with that treatment. Then generally I put Tan-kote on my reins to give them a nice shop shine. Ross

In what respects. I personally feel like Hermann Oak is the best leather out there to stamp and mold.But I also use Thoroughbred and Wickett and Craig on occasion. I'm sure others on this forum have their own personal favorites. It depends on what your looking for the leather to do. Ross

I've never had that problem on anything I've ever antiqued, and use that as a finish on pretty much everything I stamp. But thats not to say it can't happen. Ross

Clear-lac gives a very nice satin top finish as well. Its what I've started to use now that I can't get Neat-lac anymore. Ross

Tan-kote will water spot. Use Neat-lac (if you can find any), or Clearlac as your to coat. If rubbed in well when applied they both give a very nice satin top finish. Ross

Sal, I generally don't stitch anything until all of my finishing is done and dry. It keeps you stitches white and just looks better. But don't be afraid to put a coat of Tan-kote, Neatlac, or Clearlac over those stitches, that won't affect to look or hurt them at all. I generally put an antique finish on all of my stuff , and don't like for that antique paste to get down in my stitches and gunk them up. Some guys do and are fine with it but I like my sticthes white. Ross

Jared, The retention is great. The leather has been molded to every curve and bulge of your gun. I do this with a Horn or similar tool to mold it around the object. I fold my leather over, mold it, glue it and then let it dry completely before I sew it together. Really the only reason I mentioned the Masters glue was because Bingo mentioned that the glue he was using was waterproof; so is the Masters Cement. If you are worried about the holster not being tight enough then, after you form and before you glue it down, fudge a little and subtract about a 1/16 or an 1/8 of an inch. Or just make a mental note to sew it in further, again about a 1/16 or an1/8 of an inch, and then trim were you want your edge. Another thing to think about is that most of the stuff I make is stamped. Either set stamped or flower stamped. You can't stitch that holster or knife sheath together and then stamp it. You have to stamp it as is drying out and flat on your bench. I also like to put a antique finish on my stuff and keep my stitches white. The only way to do that is to put a finish on it before I sew it, other wise the stitches gunk up with antique. And I can't put the finish on wet leather. But like John said ten different people are going to do it ten different ways. So whatever works for you. If any of this didn't make sense fire away with the questions. Ross P.S. Bingo, I glue up to the edge of the gun. As far in as I can glue. I also generally put a spacer or a plug in were I sew, so that there is 3 pieces of leather that I'm stitching together. A bottom, middle and top piece. That spacer will help to fit the gun better. If I'm not making sense just let me know.

I would suggest that you get you leather wet and form it to the gun before you sew it. This way you can let you leather dry out completely before you stitch it. Use Masters Leather Cement and you won't have any trouble with the glue not holding. If you sew you holster closed before you form it, then you are only guessing at how much leather you need to fold over. It in my experiece it far easier to make a holster or a knife sheathe to fit well if you know exactly where you need to be. Sure you can force something down in it, if you have enough stretch in you leather. But what if you don't? Leather will only stretch so far. Form it before you sew it. Another suggestion is to use an awl to hand stitch it together if you don't have a sewing machine. Drilling those holes out doesn't allow the holes to close up around the thread like awl holes will. Thats my 2 cents worth. Ross Brunk www.nrcowboygear.com

Frank, When I lace or buck stitch something I use an awl. You could go and get one of those lacing chisels from Tandy, it might be a little easier to run for a beginner. I personally don't like to use them but just cause it doesn't work for me doesn't mean it won't for you. The problem I run into is that those chisels have 3 or 4 prongs on one tool. So you punch a good straight set of 3 holes, move on down the line and the next 3 will be crooked. With an awl you just mark your line with a groover or set of dividers in your case, mark your holes with a stitch marker, stick it in your stitchin horse, and put that awl were you want it every time. If one hole is a little off, fix it on the next one. And try different things, see what works for you. Don't get frustrated if it doesn't go together like you have it envisioned in you head. Someone once told me to make everything a practice peice for the next project. Just practice on some peice of scrap and then do your project when you feel like you have it down fairly well. Strive for perfection but don't be disapionted when you never get there. Tell me if any of the instuctions about lacing help. I don't mean to just give a pep talk. Thats no good if you don't learn anything. Ross www.nrcowboygear.com

Frank, What kind of leather is it? Is it a chap or upholstery leather? If it is then no you don't need to groove it. In all reality you can't groove it. Handsewing shouldn't be bad for it just time consuming for you, and that should work for some pouches and such. I I were you I would get a stitch marker (some people call it an over stitch wheel) and mark were I wanted those holes to go so that I could sew a straight line. Another thing you thing you could do is get some lace and buck stitch or lace the edges together. Here is a picture of some lacing and buck stitching. Tell me if that helps. Ross www.nrcowboygear.com

DJ, Another option is to go get some Thoroughbred tanned harness leather. Cut you rens with the tail from the neck and the bit end from the butt. Thoroughbred makes I think it's a 15/17 oz harness. They will be plenty heavy for anybody. Those Thoroughbred sides tend to be really long to so I can generally get reins to be in between 8 and 9 foot long. And that's a pretty harness leather just used water and Feibings Yellow Paste Saddle Soap and it slicks edges up real nice. 5/8" reins are my most popular size. Hope thats helps. Ross www.nrcowboygear.com

Frank, I would suggest going and getting a stitch groover. You can take a swivel knife and lightly score the leather where you want to stitch, but it never looks good. That score line is hard to hit in the center with a sewing machine and just doesn't look right. Another problem with doing that is you can't keep the same depth constantly and probably weaken the leather significantly along that line. I you don't what to spend to much money, Tandy and Osbourne both sell a pretty cheap model. It's a pretty critical tool to do things well and right. Ross www.nrcowboygear.com

Andy, You need to put a top finish, or sealer over dye. Dye your product, (I just regular Feibings leather dye or the oil dye is good to) then put a light coat of pure neastfoot oil over the top of it. Let it set over night and then put a top finish on it. I used to use Neat-lac but you can't get that anymore. Clear-lac is an optionl product but it tends to strip dye worse than Neatlac did, so what I do is put a coat of Feibings Tan-kote on, let it dry and then use the Clear-lac over that. You can put one or two coats on ,with a peice of wool skin is the best way, and make sure you really rub it in to the leather. Two light coats rubbed in is better than on heavy coat. With the Tan-kote on first the Clear-lac shouldn't strip that dye off. Rubbing it forces it into the leather, prevents it from streaking and give a great satin finish. Make sure to do this to you edges after you have slicked and burnished them to. Hope that helps. Ross www.nrcowboygear.com

I'm not sure about where is Texas, but several wholesalers and retailers in the US sell Herman Oak Leather. Go to www.hermannoakleather.com, click on the distributors link on the left, and find the one closest to you. You looking for their Old World Harness leather. Another suggestion is to get some Thoroughbred harness. It comes in longer sides that are great for reins, and its a little more affordable for small things like that. Its great harness leahter in my opinion. Here is there web site http://www.thoroughbredleather.com/home.html Ross www.nrcowboygear.com

Tom, Take some barge thinner and see if it pulls some of it up. And if that won't work try some oxalic acid. It come in a crystal form at the drug store. Use about a tablespoon in a quart of water and rub it over the entire product. If that won't take it out then I'm lost for anything thing else to tell you. This is all assuming that you haven't put a finish or sealer on the leather. Ross www.nrcowboygear.com

It wont break if you drop it o the concrete, that's for sure. If it works and works well use it. Ross www.nrcowboygear.com

Larry, The reason for tempering you leather is to take the stretch out of it. By rubbing it on both sides when its wet it will compress the fibers down and compact them. You will typically temper stirrup leathers on a saddle. Why? Well becasue they are going to carry some of you weight, and if you don't they will have a tendency to stretch out on their own. Tooled belts that are single ply are good to temper as well, since when you stamp them the will have a tendency to stetch. Not only in lenght but also out of shape. And it does seem to give stamping a crisper appearance, but theres a lot of stuff out there that doen't get tempered that looks great. So some of that comes down to preference. Ross, www.nrcowboygear.com

Dustin, If you are going to stamp you wallet, get it wet, throw it in a garbage sack and let it set overnight to case it. Then rubber cement it down to a piece of plexi-glass, and let it dry out to proper moisture content and stamp it. Glueing it down to the plexi-glass will prevent it from shrinking, and it will prevent the leather from stretching when you tool it. Most of the time you are making a wallet or something similar you are working with lighter weight leather and need to do something to prevent the shrink and stretch. I found that this method works the best for me. Carboard wouldn't be a good choice. You would get a lot of bounce out of it when you went to stamp you leather. Hope that helps and answers your question. Ross www.nrcowboygear.com

A chunk of hardwood works well to. Something really hard like cocobolla or ebony wood. Just make it wedge shape and polish it smooth. Something that hard won't need a lacquer or finish of any kind on it. That's what I use in my shop. Then just temper out your leather with the moisture content that Bruce talked about. I like to do it several times until it's dry. Ross www.nrcowboygear.com

Ceder, If I were you, I would avoid putting two individual bevels to my knife. I prefer my knives to be one long taper from handle to cutting edge. Fairly thin is good but don't go to thin or that edge will roll easily. I use mostly antique blades, your W. Rose Knives, Gomph, and Theo Harrington are my favorites. The Rose knives were made to heavy in the blade, so whenever I get one I tend to take alot of material off with a power sander and like 80 grit paper. After that I continue to work it with finer and finer sand paper till its polished, always keeping that taper the same degree from handle to edge. After its polished the way I like then I take it to a stone and thats when I will put a second bevel on it. But its a very fine one. You have to remember that with a Round knife there is no tool to maintain that same exact degree when you sharpen it. With a pocket knife or kitchen knife there are a multitude of tools to sharpen them with, by hand or even a machine. But with a round knife you are pretty well stuck with by hand. I know that this may not sound very scientific but when I sharpen a knife, I guess at the degree of that edge that is being sharpened on the stone. I could send you a picture of a good knife to show you thickness of blade as well as the straight bevel that I'm talking about. Like I said I'm not very scientific, but I have gotten to were I can put an edge on one of my knives that I can shave with in about 10 minutes. And with good steel my knives hold that edge for a long time. Another thing one you get that edge on there and you knife is sharp, buff the snot out of it. If its good steel, you will get them scary sharp. Let me know if that helps and if you want some photos or not. Ross nrcowboygear.com