RWB

No. Not normally. There have just been a few occasions that I've had to touch something up after my antique and top coat are dry. Like I said the dye will soak through Neat-lac, but it takes some time. Again, out of curiosity, how do you charge for a redo like that? Is it based solely on time or do you have a set price. Ross

Ain't no flipping glaciers melting today. We haven't see the ground since the first of Dec, here in most of Montana. Those global climate change people crack me up. Ross

The reason I strip the leather before attempting to re-applying dye is that the dye does not absorb as easily into the leather over a finish. Here are some test samples to show you what I mean... Kate Interesting. What do you use for a top coat? I've notice that the alcohol dyes take longer to soak thru Neat-lac or Tan-kote, but I've never had that problem of them barely soaking in. Maybe I put my colors on to heavy. Intriguing. Not that it matters, you have a system that works for you. I was just curious. You do some cool stuff, Kate. Ross

I'm curious what type of dye it is that you use. Why do you have to strip it off before you can re-apply it? Can't you simply go over the top to even it all out? Ross

Thanks I appreciate the comments. Ross

Tim, One thing you should try, before you totally scrap it, would be to re-dye your lettering. Go back over it with a darker color such as Feibing's Mahogany Dye. Not an oil dye just their regular spirit leather dye. I have never had that happen before so its unusual to me to see that happen. That dye should penetrate the Neat-lac, but it will take a little longer than usual. After you have dyed it and let it set for a day or two (just to make sure it's really dry) put a top coat of Tan-coat on it. When that it dry (30 min) apply a LIGHT coat of Neat-lac with a piece of wool skin, and try to rub it in without really scrubbing at it. The Tan-kote should prevent the Neat-lac from stripping the dye off. I have found that dye on top of Neat-lac is easier to strip off than if it's applied directly to the leather. Tell me how that works. Ross Brunk

Have you tried some oxalic acid? That will typically clean most things. Or depending on what exactly it looks like you might be able to sand it out since it is on rough out. Post a picture, that would help. Ross Brunk Northern Range Cowboy Gear

I have on a few occasions removed a spirit dye spot with Neatlac or a similar product. The trick is that you have to move with alomost unhuman light speed. It helps to if you have applied Neat-lac to the piece already. That creates a barrier of sorts that prevents the dye from soaking in as fast. And all I've done is used as much profanity as I can think of, and rub it in really hard with my finger. Sometimes it works, and sometimes it doesn't. If you can invent some new words it might help. Best if you are just carefull and don't slobber it up on top. Ross

It's amazing how people have a tendency of doing that, isn't it Ray? Just when you think a line has been crossed. BAM!! Someone jumps over it. Ross

Wow. Maybe a little more tact next time would be in order. Al Stolman doesn't have the corner market on leather. Ross

Troy and Darcy, I really appreciate the input. That's what I was looking for. When I ask for a critique, I mean it. No holds barred. My skin is about a foot thick. It is also great to hear you guys point out things that I have seen and don't like, because then I know I'm looking at the right things. Like the front jockey, I didn't like how it looked, but until you said what to do with it, Troy, I wasn't sure why I disliked it. So again I appreciate it. The great thing is that this saddle is going to Pennsylvania, and I will hopefully never have to see it again. The guy who is buying will never see the things I do, so it works out. I will work on all those things on the next one coming up here in a bit. Thanks again, Ross Brunk

Thanks guys. I appreciate it. Quick couple questions though, Troy. What would you prefer to see on that back billet? An English point perhaps? Also down in Wichita Falls you said that my skirts and my overall saddle flared out to much. On this saddle I'm having the same problem of getting everything to lay down and still be tight. Even my stirrup leathers and fenders are sticking way out, kinda like wings. Consequently my seat jockeys flare out as well. Any suggestions? Should I stick it on my draw down and crank on it? I hate to do that, but have no other ideas. Thanks, Ross

Pretty cool, Bob. Nice and clean as always. Great color, smooth lines, everything is tight and smooth. Ross Brunk

Thanks for all the kind comments, I appreciate them. Don't be afraid to tell me what you don't like about it. Ross

Here is a saddle that I just finished up. As always my skin is pretty thick, so go ahead and fire away. Again Bob Park, Keith Seidel, or anyone, please tell me how to improve my stamping and construction. I think I have improved my stamping since those taps. But I'm finding that it is tougher for me to cut a circle that flows to the right, like this one does, as opposed to one that flows to the left. I don't know why that is, but my circles aren't as round going to the right. I appreciate it. Thanks Ross Brunk Northern Range Cowboy Gear

Ready Flow Pens. Available thru Ohio Travel Bag. Ross

You can get basically the same type of applicator from Ohio Travel Bag. Their version is called Ready Flow Pens. There a two pens, a large and a small one, that sit in a little plastic container. The lid screws on and off and the pens go thru holes in the top. Fill the container with dye, the pens soak it up, and away you go. All they are, are basically what Troy West described. Plastic tubes with felt applicators on the end. They work great, but after hearing Troy's suggestion I doubt I'll be buying them any more. I might as well make my own. Ross

It is hard to produce quality work without quality tools and materials. Not impossible, but hard none the less. Ross

I have a nice Gomph knife I would be willing to sell. Ross

Big. That is about all you can do is make the leg big. And you will have a lot of slack left over when they get their leg in it. I know that customer hate it when I do this, but I try to talk them out of it. I just tell them the truth. That they are going to have a ton of slack. Another thing that I have done is make them step ins from just above the knee down, and close the rest of the leg with short zippers. And that works pretty good you have enough slack up top in the thigh area to get them on, but they are still fitted. When I go to close the leg I lace them, just like I would a zippered pair only through both sides of the leg. If you need a picture of the lacing let me know. I can post one. Ross

I've built a couple saddles on Bowden Trees. They are a fairly good factory tree for the price, but I'm pretty picky. So the result is that I ended up spending a lot of time cleaning up the lines of my saddles, and hiding the things that the tree factory missed. Things like the rawhide stitching on the back of the cantle isn't very flat so I had to fill in the divets and bring the whole back cantle up to the same level. Also the nails in the gullet aren't flat and create dimples. So I had to fill those. The other problem I had, was on one tree the cantle wasn't square to the bars, so the off side was a 1/4 of an inch forward of the near side. I'm not tryng to scare you off, but just want you to know the problems I had on the two trees I built on. All in all they are probably a pretty good tree, but I don't like to spend the time fixing all of those little things. It is cheaper for me to buy a good handmade tree that doesn't have those problems. If you not wanting to spend $500 on a tree then check out Quality Tree MFG. They make a tree thats nicer than a factory but not as expensive as a totally custom tree. Ross

And that's true that oil and Tan-kote can be applied to chap leather with no ill effects. However I was specifically referring to a "Sheridan Antique", or whatever you want to call it; and when I referred to "antique" I was specifically referring to the paste that Feibings manufactures. But yes, chap leather can be given a more distressed or used appearance. Ross Brunk

Ok, yeah if you are talking about antiquing something that is stamped you have the right proccess. If you can't find any Neat-lac use either Clear-lac or Sheridan Leather Outfitters sells what they call Wyo Sheen. Ross

I have honestly never heard of applying an antique to chap leather. What exactly are you trying to accomplish? The way that chap leather is tanned, and what you use it for is not really conducive to antiquing. If you apply oil, neat-lac, antique, and Tan-kote to chap leather you will most likely ruin your leather. So let me know what you are wanting to do. What the look is that you are trying to acheive. Ross Brunk

Thanks Steve, I appreciate the compliment. I guess I've just looked at them for to long to like them. That is my pattern. The pictures make it look a little funny. When you tie them down to the stirrups they look better. I run strings thu two rosettes in the front of them and suck them down to the stirrup so that they aren't so flat faced. They have more of a snout when it is all said and done. Here is a rough-out pair that are the same pattern. Keith, I would be very appreciative of an critique that you can give me. Ross Brunk www.nrcowboygear.com