Trox

Please post a picture of the machine head and places of adjustments. Thanks Tor

Hi Walter, About the splitting machine that looks like a # 86, its do not have a brass bar for material (or it might have that too). However, it is a part of the cast iron frame that goes higher than the roll. I cannot find a picture of it, and I do not remember who had one. Maybe it was Ralph ( my friend the Leather Guru). He has allot of big powered band knife splitters and stuff, I think he has a small Blanchard pull true too. Never mind, If I find a picture of I will show you what I mean. Yes I am looking for a good splitting machine, but cannot afford a band knife. Nor have I room for more big machines in my workshop now without expanding. After I stuffed a big clicking machine in to my small shop its completely full. On twenty square meters i now have, four big industrial sewing machines, a bell knife skiving machine on metal closed stand and a old Sandt clicking machine.Seven bench machines, placed high and low. I got to sell seven sewing machines, I just stored the old ones instead of selling them. Good old Adler's are hard to sell, you never know when these new machines break down and you need a back up. I do have buyers for them too, when I find a nice hand or motor cranked splitter I will sell a machine to finance it. You know the German company Sieck? who sell used leather machines http://www.sieck.de/en/machines/splitting/ They often have nice hand cranked splitters, but always very expensive. I have dealt with them before and can get the price down a bit. However, "a bit" is not enough with those start up prices. That paste you using looks to be very tough, I will certainly try it out thank you. The compound I am using is called Menzerna. Here is a link to their brand new website, last time I looked they did not have one. I bought my compound block from a local leather craft suppliers almost ten years ago, still its more than half left. (and I use it on the wheel all the time) On a cut scale from 1 to 10 (10 is max) ; mine is a 4. Still it cuts pretty good as well as its polish, its a all-round compound. I do have something that suppose to cut more from an other brand, but it does not. You see here they have a full line of products too. German quality, they do not brag unnecessary of their products; they just makes it very good. You know what I mean. http://www.menzerna.com/en/products/solid-pastes/metal/?num=1 Its a button for German language top left on the site. It has maintained my tools and refurbished many old ones too. I do need something that grinds lie the one you showed me, I will give it a shot. Thank you

Hi Walter, that was a very exclusive thread rack, but very very clever. I have seen one for sale at Ebay not many days ago, but now I cannot find anymore (it was cheap because no one knew what it was). Most be very good if you want to make your own hand sewing thread out of sinew or similar. Thank you for the explanation of the La parfaite rapide splitter. If I understand you correctly these machines was hired in by the big companies with their operator; an heavy belt maker/saddler ( or a driving belt maker in English, who made big industrial leather driving belts for machines) From what I can understand from the French explanation on the tool site you posted a link for.(It is a picture of it there) It can do a lap skive and both a left and right skive too, Is this correct? The splitter # 2 you have a Mayer Flamery version of is called the # 83 Spitler`s combination splitter; it does both lap skiving and splitting (see article from Campbell Bosworth about splitting machines) http://campbell-bosworth.com/articles/Splitting-Machines.pdf This is a smart little machine similar to the # 84 Keystone. I have a Heritage copy of this splitter and it works fine. The # 86 is made buy many companies, I have a eight inch with out maker name and a ten inch CS. Osb. ( both purchased from Bruce). However, I have seen them in European versions too, green color. And a strange looking model with a top frame over the roller, I cannot see the purpose of this frame because it only have one roller and apart from it looks exactly like the CS. Osb. model 86. Yes the best ones are hand cranked or motor driven, I have been looking for one for a long time now. No luck so far. So you like those huge round/half moon knifes, 12 inch, thats 30 cm thats some knife. Thats the "Crocodile Dundee" of round knifes . I have a couple which I regards as big: an Blanchard 19 cm and an Fernand Mayer 21 cm. Those are small compared to yours. I seldom use them for other than long roll cuts, I find them a bit hard to control on smaller jobs. Yes, I use a similar grinding paste like your of German origin. I keep my tools polished with it and have no need to resharpen any of them, I am only polishing them on the leather strop board or a buffing wheel. Thank you Tor

Hi, It was down for a long time. I checked it with this site http://websitedownrightnow.com/leatherworker.net.html and this site reported it was down for everyone and not just for me, handy site.

Hi Walter, thanks for the pdf`s, very nice "tool pornographic`s". I saw some tools there I never seen before, like the Machine à parer # La parfaite rapide" Seems to be a splitting machine that can to skiving too?. Are you familiar with this tool? Among the four splitting machine in the Blanchard catalog there is a well known Osborn #86. Then two others I never seen, one of them looks like the one Dixon offers. I know Blanchard made (or sold) that model too. Back to your post #1, In the picture # 6 first row (Werkzeuge 012.jpg) there is a black cast iron clock, beside the pyrograpic tool I been wondering about for some time now. Looks like some kind of heating clock or something, what are you using this tool for. Finally, back to our bellowed round knife. In your opinion are the Blanchard knifes with one (or several) medailles any better that the ones with out. I am getting my eyes opened for American round knifes now; more every day. I have several good CS. Osborne's with Newark stamping. My favorite user now adays is a little 4 inch HF. Osborn, very sturdy and superb steel quality. Apart from one of my Mayer Flamery knifes, the Us made knifes seems to have a bit thicker steel than the French. I just scored a 5 1/2" William Rose and a small 3" star marked CS. Osborne on the Ebay. I heard many good things about the rose knife, I see they sell for top dollar too. There aren't many old leather tools to be found in my country, I have to use the web to get what I need. I bought allot from French ebay and of course I buy from our friend Bruce here, he offers very nice tools and is a pleasure to deal with. And he is a walking dictionary on leather tools and splitting machines. For those who do not know him I recommend him highly. Walter, all your tools look completly spot less; did you buy them all new? They look very well cared for every one of them. That brass plough looks like it was made yesterday, and it has to be old since the maker is the Rossler. Thank you Tor

Hello Walter, I have been looking for this catalog for a long time, it is a great find. I have seen some of it in the in the "Dictionary of leather-working tools, 1700-1950" by R.A. Salaman. The G. Krempp`s who was the successor of Georges Lutz, (according to the book) had the exact same tools in his catalog as Simonin Blanchard had. And the catalogs have the same date too, perhaps they used the same print to save money (as many leather tool seller still do). A other reason was that every French tool makers made tool from the same patterns, as even German makers did. I have tools from several French makers: Mayer Flamery A Paris * Fernand Mayer, Paris (who may be the one half of the latter) * Ullathorne & cie, Paris * Dumay, A Paris * Depose * SNCF (and a vertical) B. Even some with maker names I cannot read any more. However, they all seems to be made of the exactly same patters. You can see some difference in choice of material and shape of wooden shafts sometimes. Apart from that they are all alike. According to history there where toolmakers in every backyard in the old times, perhaps the big companies bought unmarked tools from them and put their own mark on them. I do not think thats far from the truth, and then later producing them their self. Perhaps also employed some of these backyard makers in their own firm. That history might be out there somewhere to be found, I hope its not lost for ever. Anyway, I am very interested in the PDF copy of course, that would help many tool freaks like me to identify old tools. I would be very pleased if you posted it, and perhaps I also could ask you for an PDF copy too. I will be bold enough to send you an PM (personal message), because its not wise to publish any emails online (spammers will bombard our email in boxes and steal our valuable time and perhaps info too). In advance thanks. I am always on lookout for nice old leather tools, some time ago I found an old Blanchard saddler hammer with a strange bone shaft. The steel did not look very good, but it had the right shape of a good saddler's hammer. (when your name is "Tor" you got to love hammers). After several hours of restoring on my band grinder and polishing wheel it is usable again. Have you seen this kind of handle on any Blanchard hammer before?, its black, brown and white bone and not Ivory. Could it be from a mammoth? It is bone but not as hard as whale or walrus teeth's (and it do not smell like a horn). If you have seen something like it, please let me know. Thank you Tor

Amazing work. Thank you for sharing Tor

Thank you Walter, I keep an sharp eye on this thread. Good luck Tor Tor

Hi, I am able to get something from my supplier in Oslo who is made the old way. I believe it comes from a tannery in Italy, it is expensive and do not look very good on the surface. But after wetting it looks good. The sizes I have (in mm.) 1 to 1,2 mm and 2,3 to 2,5 mm. Because its very strong I use this leather on the light weight tasks. Its not often my supplier has this leather, because nobody asks for it anymore. I buy it when I can get hold of it.This leather takes colors,oils, casing and tooling better than anything else I have seen. You got to work on it, its not meant to be Left as it is. When I read about all they did to their leather in the old days, it kind of makes sense to me. Tor

Hi Bruce, The reason I asked was a small order I have with you, Its no hurry only want to make sure you remembered it. Just take your time with it. It might be a braider's tool or for some kind of work like that. You would need both your hand for that job and a blade with guides attached to the work bench would work much better for that job ( just bought one from Ryan O Neil, on sale by the way. A strap splitter made of heavy cast steel with a blade and two brass guides, very cheap on EBay right now , about 35 $.) Its strange however, Ive never seen it in any old French tool catalog ;and I looked true allot of those lately. I would remembered If I seen it before for sure. Thats why I mistake its related to something like a coach building or similar, even bookbinding. If its a saddler or harness tool somebody here would have recognized it. I am only guessing. Tor

Hello Bruce, I did not see this one before now. I do not know how I could missed this interesting looking tool. I have never seen one before, thats for sure. Looks like a kind of channeler/ plane maybe related to a more miscellaneous leather trade. Blanchard made tools for many other trades, they still do. We can ask Vergez Blanchard what it is, he must have some kind of archive of their product. It cuts down into something thats for sure, where did you find this gem. Bruce are you on holiday nowadays or working. Tor

Thank you very much Walter for your very informative answer. Being Norwegian I understand a bit German of course. Its been a pain not knowing the German tool makers and their maker stamps. I am a collector and user of German Industrial sewing machines (who are the best there is), I would of course prefer German quality in leather tool too. However, for some reason those makers are not known outside Germany. I agree Melzer & Feller (Rossler) has a superior quality and finish over Blanchard. I could not find much information about him on the web; only that he made Parade daggers for the SS before WW2. I guess thats was something all good German tool makers did. I guess its more info out there, its hard for me to write technical German search words. ( I understand them, but write them correctly is an other story) About the Pfaffrath Plough; I agree thats a quality you normally would not find in Germany ( not that bad but too expensive for the quality). I got it cheap second hand in Norway, and bought it out of curiosity. Too bad the last maker (Wolfgang Zwanzig) has no web site, If you going to visit him and try persuade him in to make more tool; it might help to have a bigger order on hand. I could order something from him too, like a plough gauge, German mini plough or punches. Depended of what he is willing to continue to make, he might be a old man. Please let me know if its any extra trouble for you, I can send you my Email in a PM. I do not know what you are looking to buy from him, anything of the old quality would be perfect. Thank you Tor

There are information about Bridles in the 1875 manual in my above topic http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=49430. The Danish Royal saddler company Dahlman http://www.sadelmager-dahlman.dk/side38.html has lot of historical documents on their website, here is some from the old French saddlery the year 1878 . It has been rated as the best saddlery in the world http://www.sadelmager-dahlman.dk/side32.html. Just try the links and look at the pictures, some are in French, German and English too, (Google Translate is your friend). Here is some leather museum links. http://www.lederbibliothek.at/über-uns/ http://www.sattlermuseum.at/links/ You will find some inspiration and see what was the fashions of the 17. and 18 century saddler and Harness makers in these links. Any detail patterns, perhaps that too have a look and enjoy. Good luck Tor

Hello Walter, Very nice collection,I collect and use French leather tool too.Those two small strap cutters/plough gauges what are they called? I have never seen them before. Who made them? What is the name of the German tool makers you use, the one who still a life do he make and sell tools anymore? I do not have many German leather tools, they are hard to find (for non Germans) I have a Griffe à Molette, pricking wheel carriage of French pattern. Its made by Melzer & Feller Germany. A couple of hammers, one with the stamp "Germany 2". An other Hammer with the same Horse as on your big plough gauge, Its German or French, do you know the maker name of this tool (your tool). The last German tool I have is the new plough gauge from M. Pfaffrath OHG, stamped with the number "9 2006" and "Germany" with a small mark that contains a "S" and a "L" melted together on top of each other (top one in picture, the other is a Mayer Flamery, Paris). Is this the same tool maker you are talking about, who is the last one alive in Germany? Or is there an other one still around. Please post his name here. In advance thanks. Tor

I noticed that too. He said it would be better to have all weight classes of leather to avoid it. The splitting is a loss of material too. The strongest part of the leather might be the grain side. However, the leather is subjected to all kinds of stress, tensile and compressive strength to name some. The Flesh side might be more durable to other kinds of stress like friction,(heat), crack resistance to mention some. The best quality (strongest leather) is not corrected/splitted in the tannery , It has its full grain and does not look as good as the corrected ones, but are much stronger. Its harder to make and are much more expensive, few people uses this leather today. He is right ; having leather in all thicknesses would be more economical and make better products for sure. Tor

yes, I think so too. Look at all the receipt for dying/staining the leather black, it must be twenty different ways. Allot is certainly lost from this great trade of ours. I hope we get something back from this.

By searching around on the biblo web for leather related literature, I found this old book about Harness making from 1875; "The Harness maker illustrated manual, by Wm. N. Fitz Gerald New York N.Y. 1875" This book has no copy rights because of its age. By googling the name i found a free online copy too. http://www.cd3wd.com/cd3wd_40/JF/417/06-246.pdf The book has 340 pages of very interesting reading. It covers the leather trade and history better than any other book I have read. I always suspected the leather business to be "better" before, as all the leather tools are. This proves it. The book describes in great detail the process of selecting the best hides, which tanning process and all the different craftsmen who did the work. Along with the making of the different products (and much more). Some of the knowledge are "only" history today because of the modern ways. However, it is impressing reading how the harness makers took part in selection and treatment of the leather, most of it is a lost art today. I have not read it all yet, far from it. I am looking to buy a hardcover version of it, I have seen them as low as 34 $. It would cost me more in printer ink to copy it from the web (thats also not legal, you can copy the original book but not the online copy). Especially interesting are all these lost secrets of the trade you can read about here. Its not only a wonderful historical document, it makes you a better craftsman too. This book might be known to many of our US members, to me its great (old) news. Thanks Tor

What do you want to know. Kochs Adler 167-373 (later merging with Dürkopp in to Dürkopp Adler AG 1990). The 167 is the same machine as the earlier Adler 67. It has a larger hook and a different handweel or else all part are interchangeable and they use the same part list. The 67 came in allot of sub classes, with different feed types one and two needle, the 167 only a few (one and two needle and a couple more). The subclass -373 was the surviving subclass. Straight lock stitch flatbed, It has compound triple feed ( bottom, top and needle feed). 7 mm max stitch length, forward and reverse. It handles thread sizes from Tex 60 to Tex 180 and has a large bobbin. The machine was made from 1955 until 1984, parts are still available. The machine is very well made out of the best quality German materials. You will find manuals and other downloads on this site http://sew24.blogspot.no/p/downloads.html. Its a old machine but the quality beats everything on the marked today. The machine you have listed and want to compare it too is all Chinese made machines, Consew and Chandler are good Chinese machines, The Tacsew however, has bad reviews on the forum. Tor

You need a front thread guide with a adjustable position. You can buy or make one. Look at the video of the Cowboy machine, it has thread guide that can adjust how the bobbin winds. Without it you can use your finger as a guide. However with out a consistently woven bobbin your machine will not sew right Tor

Hi , feet's for the Pfaff 335 and Pfaff 345 will also fit your 1245. I buy my feet's and accessories from http://www.kwokhing.com/pfaff/ They are based in Hong Kong, ships fast and take Paypal. Very good product and prices. Send them an email with the product number or your questions. Pfaff foot set are from 9 to 15 $, their very fine dropdown sewing guides around 25 $. Good luck Tor

I use white sewing machine oil, it does not stain. WD 40 might contain some harmful acids used for cleaning. A little drip in each lube point before use, just enough to get a small film between the metal surfaces. I believe the Square drive is the motion of the needle feed on your machine. Did you find the adjustment of the jump foot? I have an Old Adler class 5 with a jump foot, I used it before I bought my 441. It did not have any needle feed only bottom feed and a spring loaded jumpfoot. You was suppose to adjust the foot so it just clears the material and could advance freely forward again. Without clearing the material it would not feed, to much clearance did not really matter anything on that machine. Your machine have a jump foot that just go up and down (It looks like it). To compare it to a regular needle feed (like my Adler 204-64), where the foot stays down on the material all the time. It hard to see from the video. However, It might be important that the height of the jump foot is correctly set, because of the square drive timing. The foot must keep the material from moving when the needle advances forward. To test it I would take some wegtan leather 1/4 to 1/3 " thick and sew in a long straight line ( 12 to 20 " or more). Sew with the motor and in the same speed all the time (remember to hold down your thread ends tight in the start). Then you will be able to see if it is the machine or operator caused uneven stitches. Change settings and do a new parallel line until it looks good (make notes) If the lines look good, do some turns, use the method of elimination. Always use a new right size needle, trow away all old needles. A bad needle is responsible of the major of stitch errors. Like Wiz said, check for play in the needle bar and loose screws etc. Good luck Tor

Hi, not that bad. I see some errors mainly in conjunction with corners. A stitch can get loose when you lift the foot and during the advancing of the needle. Take car your needle is down and bit past B.D.C (so the hook has grabbed the thread) before lifting the foot. Try to increase the foot pressure and thread tension a bit. Did you find the stitch length regulator, to me it looks lite you can adjust the travel of the arm that moves side ways (on the back of the machine). I you get hold of a Luberto manual I am sure you can use it. Steve (Singermania), I am sure you are able to help him out a bit here. If you disregards the top needle guide than looks like a foot, it should be like the other similar machines. Tor

This is a needle feed with a jump foot, and the strange looking front top foot is Ferdinand JeanBlanc patented upper needle guide http://www.google.com/patents/US5762014. He pimped allot of machines in to leather stitcher's, like the Bull machines. He took a Juki TSC 441 and made it in to the pro 2000 twenty years ago. The todays 441 leather clones are all based on his machine. Before that he used Adler's 105 and 205 needle feeds, Singer 45 B6BC (needle feed) or Seiko Ch/ Consew 754 needle feed to make the Ferdinand 900 Bull. I remember I have seen this Ferdco 6/6 on the Ferdco website some years ago, now I cannot find any info on it. I do not know what machine its based on. However it looks the same as a Luberto with a upper needle guide added. Luberto writes on his website he received the rights to produce several machines from Ferdinand JeanBLanc. Ferdinand JeanBlanc is the man behind the no closed Ferdco company. I know we have members who can tell this story, so far they have not posted anything. To bad the Ferdco company is closed, They made allot exiting new stuff for the leather business.

That more like it, very nice. Now you have an industrial quality table your machine deserves. Normally we use some rubber ears the machine bed rests on, to avoid vibrations and such. You can use some furniture knobs instead. A coat with green soap or paint will preserve and protect it. Nice job Tor

Yes, thats the safest way. I have to buy a gallon of ink to my printer first. I am wondering if it has a leak somewhere, its alway empty when I need it.