katsass

A top coat I found many years ago (that was used as a substitute for Tandy's "Neat Sheen") that seems to seal the dyes well and has no rub off is a 50/50 mix of (believe it or not) "Mop '&' Glo". (Yep, the floor stuff) The stuff is an acrylic, just lke "Neat Sheen". I apply with an airbrush or a slightly damp (clean) sponge. You can get a matte finish or gloss depending on number of coats. I've used it for years with no complaints. Pictured are a couple of my holsters showing matte and gloss finishes with this stuff. Mike

Hi Joel, Nice work on that little rig, keep it up! This is the style of OWB holster for the J-frame S&W's that I have the most call for. I use Feibing's oil or spirit die almost exclusively with an acrylic finish airbrushed on. The body is two layers of 4/5 oz veg tanned leather bonded together (rough side to rough side) and saddle stitched all around. Mike

Dwight, Thanks for the reply. As I said, I've never used one, but since I've been seeing a number of threads re: using a press, I began to think about building one to try. Don't know if it is worth the expense and effort though. I've been doing much as you do using only my grimy mitts and maybe a chunk of antler or the like for a lot of years. Here's an example of a double mag pouch I just finished. Mike

I agree with KUSTOM, Barge is great stuff, but if you can't find it without mail order (Tandy has it) you might try WELDWOOD contact cement. It's available at most home and garden supply places. (Don't get the gel formula) You can get it in 4oz bottles so you won't go broke getting a bottle to try. Just apply with the enclosed applicator and LET IT DRY - not tacky. Stick the two pieces together and roll it to make sure of contact (I use an old wallpaper seam roller) It should do the trick. Mike

Hi there. I have never used a press in my holster making, BUT I have been considering making and using one for molding holsters and mag pouches. While trying to think things out, a question arose in the old grey matter. When molding a mag pouch where you want the back to be good and flat, do you place the pouch on a hard (inflexible) piece of wood, steel etc. prior to molding, thus allowing only the top piece of rubber to do the forming? Or, is there a problem with that. Any help would be appreciated, thanks. Mike

yldbill. Here is a holster I did for a gentleman last year. It's for a Colt target gun that he uses in Steel Challenge matches. It has a red dot glass on it. I used the same method I learned about 40 years (or more) ago (shown here on a 1911 holster) I start with an inexpensive manila file folder, lay the gun, sights down, in the fold; lay the gun over and trace the outline (on one side only) up to the fold. Remove the gun and start working a design 'till I like the aesthetics, cut it out and.....go for it. The last pic is of the 1911 holster (plus mag pouch) made from the pattern shown in pics #2 & #3. Mike

Hi Tim, like the style and the execution. Very good stitching, better than a lot that I see on many projects. I agree that the use of the smaller basketweave might fit the project a little better but that is a personnal decision. If you (or a client) likes it .... keep it. Since you are doing knife sheaths that are a little different, here is one that I played with about a year ago. One hand opener for a lock-back. I had seen one similar that was comercially made back in the 60's and thought I'd play with the design. This was a prototype and I never went any further. Keep up the good work. Mike

JS, Good looking work, your stitching is looking a lot better and you seem to have everything in much better balance. Keep it up! Mike

Great Job!! I've been wearing suspenders from the Duluth Trading Co. for years now and never thought of making a pair of leather....imagination went with age I guess......but now I just might have try to put something like that together. Since all my trousers have Dulith's big buttons (like Levi's) I'd have to make them with a different attachment but its one great idea AND execution. Thanks. Mike

Well JSR, If you have left enough space between stiching the holster pieces together and the profile of the weapon, you shouldn't have too much problem wet molding your project. Twinoaks is exactly correct, as is Dwight. It should end up something like this. Mike

Angel: Many years ago I did seven leather covered rifle stocks for an individual. To bond the leather to the wood I found that the best bonding agent available was a contact cement that was designed for use in applying 'Formica' or laminate products to counter tops. The brand I used at the time was "GRIP", now off the market due to the volitiles. These stocks were done in the mid-70's and are still tight to the wood. Look around for a good contact cement and be sure that you place the leather properly ---- there is NO forgiveness in that sort of stuff. I include a couple of pics of a partially completed stock, (if the pic thing works). Forgive the poor quality of the pics, they are a digital taken of an old 35mm photo. Mike

Hi there all....Mike here from the Mojave Desert of Calif. I started in working leather more years ago than I care to remember. Started by doing tack repair taught to me by a WWI horse soldier. The old guy had been a casualty of a gas attack and remained in the dry desert areas of the southwest. He would winter at our place from time to time, letting us feed his burros, teaching me to repair his tack and giving him time to rest up before hiking up thru the eastern Sierra's after the weather warmed up. I tinkered with small items until I finally formed Katsass Leather. I primarilly do custom holsters, gunbelts, and items for shooting sports. My wife is the design consultant and production supervisor.....if things don't meet her standards I get a bunch of Kat's sass....hence the name.