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katsass

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Everything posted by katsass

  1. I just want a little tooling, but none of that hand worked stuff. Thats too much money.
  2. Good morning Lobo. Great design, fantastic execution and great coments re: the repositioning of belt loops etc. I always thought that repositioning the belt loops was sort of the curse of being left-handed and just did it as a normal course of action for myself. I seldom use reinforcement at the holster mouth as I use two layers of 4/5 oz leather bonded together (flesh to flesh) for the body on almost all my holsters. This done, and when dried for 24 or so hours in the desert heat (95 to 105 and a humidity level of less than 15%) after molding, I guess that I get the same effect as your "force drying". Anyhoo, when dryed this way the things are very rigid and actually stay thay way for years. Again, great work! Mike
  3. I hope to shout! Gal, some of the stupid or uninformed questions and/or requests made by prospective customers are ridiculous. Mike
  4. LOBO, I couldn't agree with you more! Back when I started in Law Enforcement we seldom had more than 7 men on shift to cover the 2250 square miles of sparsely inhabited desert. You had better use some common sense, reason and logic when dealing with a situation. Now the kids have to call in a 'tracker' to follow footprints thru the sagebrush a quarter mile. It was time to get out...after 35 yrs. Mike
  5. Maxx, I have never seen a difference when hand stitching (saddle stitch) with any thread. I've been stitching my work for over 40 yrs. and have never had a problem with that. I prefer waxed linnen and try to never have to use more than a single strand of thread on any project. Enclosed are two examples...the holster is a few months old ...the knife sheath is over 20 yrs. old. Mike
  6. NYIS, good morning again. Maybe you are not getting the tool to work for you in the proper way. First, ensure that the blade is sharp, mine uses what looks like an old Schick Injector razor blade. When installed it faces you, between the upper and lower thickness guides. Set the thickness to just slightly more than the thickness of the leather you are cutting, and set the width of cut to your need then lock it down. Make sure you have a straight edge on the leather you will cut. This will act as your guide. You will need to make an initial (starting) cut in your leather to the left of that straight side....the width of your strap. It will have to be deep enough for you feed the leather between the blade and the tool, and then secure that end to something solid....a hook in your bench; a vice; someone else's strong hands. If you use someone else to hold the leather, have them do just that...HOLD the leather....they don't pull. You then draw the cutter towards yourself slowly, watching the right side (straight edge you cut earlier) of the leather ride against the left side of the cutter. Do not allow the leather to bunch (which should not happen if you set the thickness guide) or pull away from the left edge of the tool. The cutter should almost glide thru the leather. On thin leather do not pull and stretch the leather as this will cause a narowing of the finished strap. Cut long straps then cut those to length. A little practice and a calm attitude should get you there. Hope this helps you Mike
  7. Tazzmann, As to a rough inside, I don't have them. All of my holsters are made from two layers of veg tanned leather. For the 8-9 oz. weight usually desired I use either 3-4oz or 4-5 oz leather glued rough to rough. I then proceed as with a single piece of leather. The choice of leather is determined by the size and weight of the gun in question. I don't generally dye the inside layer unless requested by the customer. I mold the holster with the gun inside two heavy-weight plastic bags. This alows me to mold a well fitting holster but with just enough room in it so that there is not an odd spot for excessive wear. All guns will pick up 'holster wear' if carried and used. Mike
  8. Great Work! But I have to agree with Shorts....round those corners and burnish well. I also wet mold after stitching. I can't tell for sure, but I think you may have dyed after assembly. I like to dye prior to assembly, buff each piece, then assemble. I also like to use a contrasting color of thread when stitching, it seems to set your work off a little. And, yes, it looks to me that the gun sits a little high in the holster. It may have a tendancy to lean out from the body as the butt carries all the weight of a full magazine in it. Don't take these coments as a put down! You did a fantastic job for a first holster! There a lot of things to remember in doing this line of work, what with different holster styles and different firearms. It comes with time and experience. Keep it up, you are on the track of a very satifying trade. My first holster was made over 50 yrs ago and if it looked that good I'd still wear it. Mike
  9. I'll toss in my two cents here just because all I make are custom items. If a customer wants a holster to fit a specific firearm, modified in a specific way, to be carried in a specific way and/or for a specific purpose, that's what I do. Something that he cannot buy in the local gun shop. Most are for LEOs or referals from LEOs, as I am a retired LEO myself. That said, I meet with the customer and take an initial drawing of the firearm and take all necessary measurements and list the requirements. I advise that I will need to have the weapon in my possesion for a short time at a later date to mold the product. Many times the customer will tell me to just take the gun and call him when the thing is done. In that case the customer gets a reciept that states "deposited with KATSASS LEATHER for holster construction", I tag the gun and it goes into the safe. I live in a desert area of California and one must be aware of the state, county and local laws...as stated by K-Man, BUT also be aware of the general ATTITUDE of law enforcement. I find that the younger kids in the profession now aren't too familliar with firearms in general, and may even consider that those that own guns for hunting, target shooting and even home defense may be a little "shady". Hell, the last time I looked there was still a law on the books (Health and Safety Code, I believe) that, under the letter of the law, makes it a felony (possible time in state prison) to fart in a movie theater! All this boils down to is that if law enforcement wants you, they can work out something to bite you with and anyone can sue you for anything. I have turned away a customer just because I had a bad feeling about the guy. Mike
  10. Hi there, I shoot my stuff with a light shot of Neatsfoot oil from an airbrush..........then get off it and go do something else untill the urge to do something too soon leaves me. I use this little rig from Harbor Freight for all kinds of stuff, and at a total of about $70 (compressor and airbrush) it works great. The brush itself is neat because you can go from oil to dye to finish without cleaning the tool......quick change system. It's not as adjustable as a better brush (which I have and use for certain tasks) but it does an awfull lot of basic tasks well. Mike
  11. Good morning Sydney. I don't make watchbands, or at least not yet, but I do have to cut strips of light weight veg tanned leather for cartridge loops fairly often. Found out long ago that a straight edge and a knife is not the way to go. What I would suggest it a strap cutter. I have two. One is almost 50 yrs old and the other has only a couple of yrs on it...they are almost identical. Invest $25 or $30 bucks, a little practice and some scrap leather and you should be on your way. Tandy and most leather supply outfits carry them. Hope this helps. Mike
  12. Good morning, for what it's worth, I use a lot of 4-5 oz shoulder leather. Keep your eyes open for the sales from Tandy and you can score some ggod stuff for a really decent price. Don't be afraid to order from the internet...they forward your order to the store closest to you. As to the light weight leather, I bond two layers together, rough side to rough side, so that the completed holster is smooth inside and out. Takes a bit of sewing though, but that can increase you hand strength (LOL) Here's a sample of what two layers can produce. Keep working and enjoy the craft!! Mike
  13. No Tony, I don't use any other protectant. The stuff seems to soak in and provides a semi water repellant surface. 'Taint water PROOF but works pretty well. We don't get a lot of wet weather out here in the desert but what little rain and snow we do get has never been problematical. My son shoots trap and has attended the CA State shoot in Kingsburg CA where the humidity stays around 90% and the temps are in the high 90's. Nothing will stay dry, and even carrying this case I made him a few years ago (rubbing up against soggy, sweatty clothes) no moisture damage has been experienced. Mike
  14. Tony, I got carried away way back while experimenting and layed the stuff on pretty heavy, 4 or 5 shots as I remember, and that cracked when bent pretty far. With just the two fine mistings it never has given anyone trouble. The first and second shot seem to just soak into the leather and don't build a real surface coat. Mike
  15. Well Tony, it's my own mix of (believe it or not) 50/50 water and "Mop & Glo"..... the stuff for floors. I had run out of that old Tandy 'Neat Sheene' stuff one day way back when, and found that this is basically the same stuff....an acrylic that dryed sort of shiny. I messed with it a little and found that this 50/50 mix didn't darken the leather as much as most other stuff that I tried. I put it thru and airbrush and give the thing a fine misting, wait about 10 min (here in the desert) and one more light shot. Been using it for years. Mike
  16. Well, after seeing the work of Dave at DCKnives I finally had to try an inlay piece. His work is so good and unique that I had to try to emulate him . This is for an old Smith & Wesson Model 14 target gun that has been tricked out and has custom made target stocks. It was made for the owner just to keep the gun protected on the way to the range, not to carry, so there is no belt loop. This is the first time I have ever tried to do a piece of inlayed work, and I made some mistakes and screw-ups, BUT, I learned a lot! And yes, thats all saddle stitched. Mike
  17. Chuck and Tim, Thanks to you both! I'll try the 'carpet store' first....there's one or two still functioning around here that "Lowes" and "Home Depot" haven't run out of the area. If the felt isn't as firm as I like I'll go to McMaster's. They do have exactly what I want in the right quantity. Again thanks to both of you. Tom, Tell me about lost memory? I do mostly leather work, but once in a while I do some scrimshaw pistol grips, (for those that know what real scrim is.) and some repair on 'older' firearms. I also like to shoot a little trap now and then as well as pistol shooting......they both give me a chance to show off some of the current leather and scrim work, but not much of my steady hand or keen eye. The other week I went to the range for some trap shooting, being that we were in a 'cool' spell of only the low 90s. (I live in the damn desert so my Doc gives me some of meds that screw with me in heat and sunlight) I took the '40s vintage Model 12 Winchester out and damned if I didn'r run my set! I was so tickled that when it was time to go, I loaded the car, got in, cranked it up and looked out just to see my son standing there with......my shotgun. Forgot the damn thing, but the case was in the car! I have figured out that my brains are in my butt. I'll get up to go do something or get something, take ten steps and stop because I forgot what I was doing. But if I sit down real quick I usually jar my fanny into jogging the memory path back to what I was doing and can get up again and get going. I get up and down a lot! Thanks again to all, have yourselves a great day!! Mike
  18. I have used S&D Trading Co. in Lubbock, TX for a while now, and have been quite satisfied. 806-795-6062 4010 34th St. Lubbock. I realize that Lubbock is quite a way from you but I call from CA. and get what I need. Hope this helps a little. Mike
  19. Looking for a small (1-2 square feet) of 1/4 inch thick felt. I only use it to dye the edges of leather prior to finishing but the only thing I can find lately that works are the felt polishing wheels for Dremel tools.....and not too many of them. One square foot would meet my needs for quite a while. Thanks, Mike
  20. Well Dave, re: rifle scabbards, here are a few examples of some that I have done. The first is a soft scabbard made for a 'Shiloh Sharps' in .50/90. It's made from a combination of doeskin and elk hide. It's lined but not padded. The rest are shotgun soft scabbards, fully lined and padded. The first of these is made from a combination of chrome tanned split and vegtanned. Vegtanned portion is 'branded'. The next is from a combination of heavy upholstery leather and vegtanned with a matching shell pouch. The last is from 10 oz vegtanned cowhide, 'branded'. The handle is hand made by me and attached with brass "D" rings. The little pouch is for a removable shell catcher. As far as dificulty, punching holes for stitching and/or lacing can be a REAL bitch!! when using a lining. When using a lining AND padding it can be worse!! When using padding DO NOT use foam rubber (it will turn to dust after a few years) use 'batting' obtained from a fabric store. Other than that the only problem I've found is working with the size of the creation. Different leathers do handle differently and zippers ain't easy! Hope this gives you some ideas. Mike
  21. Good morning Dave. I agree with Boomstick, Al Stohlman's book "How to Make Holsters" will help you a lot when working out standard 'pouch' style holsters. (I got my copy in about 1960) I use two layers of 4/5 oz. vegtanned leather for most of my stuff. They are glued together with BARGE or a similar contact cement so that you have smooth leather on each side...inside and out. I wet mold after all stitching is done and prior to any finish BUT I do not bone them. If the pattern is drawn well and the molding properly worked, the gun will produce a satisfying "thunk" as the it is inserted into the holster (after thorough drying) For a holster intended for use while riding you NEED a saftey strap or thong of some kind........you never know what can happen. ( A sideline here....although not from horseback riding, this guy was still bounced around pretty well in this instance.) A friend of mine was was assigned as a spotter for an air search/rescue while we were working for our Sheriff's Dept. He was wearing a pouch style hi-ride holster of his own making. No safety strap. While slightly leaning out over a scene he lost a 4" Model 19 S&W pistol out of the chopper at about 100 ft in the air. It was found about 2 months later by a hiker and turned in, in pretty rough shape. The book will show you a number of types of retention meathods, from a simple thong to two piece outside thumb release. It also will give a pretty good explanation of saddle stitching, from beginning to end. Stitching takes time, concentration and practice to come out well. I hand stitch all of my work. I enclose a few pics of a little holster I made a while ago. It shows the smooth inside as well as the stitching and the slight molding. You have started on a hobby that can become a passion or even a profession. I'm pushing real hard at 70 yrs of age, and still am learning, but love the feel of working leather. Your first effort is better than many I have seen. Keep it up!! Mike
  22. Dave, as always, great work. From what little inlay work I had seen prior to yours I wasn't too impressed, BUT upon seeing your excellent execution of the style, I found myself wanting to give it a try! I even have a project in mind, finally. Thanks for showing us your fine work. Mike
  23. Hi Dave, It's been a long time since I sewed a holster in place on a belt but, the way I handled it was to utilize the back side of my holster as a 'plate'. I drew my pattern with the front side normal and with the back side (where I would usually form the belt loop) opened into a flat 'T" shape (the same width as the belt) and sewed that to the belt. It created the correct amount of drop for the SAA "Show Rig" and, with a little decorative stitching, it added some interest. I (as you) usually use two layers of leather so it showed smooth leather all the way. Final wet forming created no problems and I did the edge finishing just as I would on a separate holster. Wish I had taken a pic of the thing, but back then I never thought of those sort of details. Mike
  24. Good morning Joel, the name actually is "Kats Sass" Leather. The name ccomes from the fact that my wife (Kathleen, hence "KAT") is my sounding board, quality cintrol and final inspector. If she doesn't like it, I hear about it. Kats Sass. The logo just seemed to draw itself. Mike
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