Wizcrafts

If you only intend to sew about 10 ounces or so, a CB227R will do just fine. It is a medium duty cylinder arm machine in the same price range, but better with thin thread (up to #138).

I completely forgot about round horsehide leather belting. I actually sell thinner (3/16") belts for home sewing machines. The 8mm belting (5/16") would be useful for bracelets. Holes can be punched into the cut ends and clasps installed. Anyway, I searched eBay and found a listing for 3/8" Oak leather belting. This belting is not totally round. It has a flatted portion on one side to facilitate punching holes for the steel clips that usually hole it together.

Sorry, no.

Hardwood; Here is a direct link to the rein rounder tool I told you about.

I think you have misunderstood my description of the roller equipped presser foot. It is NOT a wheel, nor does it require a single inline feeder. It looks like any other industrial sewing machine presser foot, but has several small rollers on the front and back. It is attached the same as a Teflon foot by unscrewing the existing foot and replacing it with the roller equipped foot. You will lose some of the available clearance under the foot, because this foot is deeper. Here is a link to an eBay listing for a high shank roller equipped foot. The photo should clear up any confusion. Titanium needles can be had in both round and leather points. You just have to find a dealer who sells leather points in the system and sizes you need. If you can't find leather points in titanium, just use plain steel leather point needles. As for the last question, if the machine is properly set up, the only thing you might need to dink with are the bobbin and top tensions to balance the knots.

Use type 3L v-belts for industrial sewing machines and their pulleys. they are 3/8 inch or 10mm across the top. As already noted, these v-belts are sold by length in inches, not millimeters.

I would get a Teflon foot to reduce the drag leather has under a presser foot. But, make sure it never hits the feed dog directly or it will get scratched up. Also, there are roller equipped flat feet available with little rollers in the front and back. That foot isn't in danger of destruction from contacting the feed dog. To assist the actual feeding, there are three feed dog/throat plate combinations available for most common straight stitch machines based on Singer designs. Dress makers prefer the fine tooth feeder. Medium teeth are better for denim cloth and thin leather. Then there are large tooth feeders for moving heavy cloth and upholstery grade leather. I would have all three in my parts drawer. Finally, I recommend using titanium coated needles as they run cooler and don't tend to gum up if you use glue or basting tape to hold layers together.

Exactly! I got the 15-91 before I got any industrial machines, for the second time around. I've had and sold off over fifteen industrial sewing machines, leaving me out of sewing at home from 2003 through 2010. During that time I was strictly doing computer troubleshooting and webmaster work (actually from 1997 through 2010). Any sewing I did was at M&M Leather. Now I have lots of big iron again.

I used to own a Singer 15-91 and can tell you what amount of leather it can and can't sew. Technically, anything that can go under the presser foot can be "sewn." But, in my experience, this machine is limited by two un-changeable items: 1: the semi-gutless motor; 2: the bottom feed only with fine teeth. I found that I was able to sew into about 6-7 ounces of bridle leather, with #69 bonded thread, using a #18 leather point needle. This required the foot pressure screw to be screwed quite far down. Sewing the same amount of veg-tan belting required a little more foot pressure. Moving up to an 8-19 ounce piece of the above leathers required the presser foot screw to be screwed all the way down. The drag on top fought against the feed dogs and shortened the stitch length. My attempts to sew 10-12 ounces of leather failed. The pressure spring couldn't hold the leather down and it skipped stitches and hardly moved along. I did try changing to a Teflon foot. This let the leather slide through with less drag. All it accomplished was the maintaining of the stitch length. I even bought a so-called walking foot attachment and installed it. This foot reduced the clearance under the feet and did very little to improve the feeding. The thicker or tougher the leather, the harder it was to penetrate and move it along. The motor would groan and eventually began smoking. I had to rebuild the motor to sell off the machine.

I don't know if you are going to find such thick leather, unless you fold, glue, or sew two suitable pieces together. You might want to look into making a round leather strap using a special technique known in the trade as round reins (horse tack) or round straps (purse straps, dog leashes, whips). There is an excellent tutorial on making round leather reins here. You can try to purchase the needed tools from Weaver Leather, which is one of our supporters with ad banners on top of the pages. They may or may not export directly to China. Good luck with your project!

By the way, the thickest leather I have seen available for sale in the US and Canada is about 1/4 inch, which is about 6mm. I imagine some tannery has thicker sides, but don't know where. When I need to make items that thick I glue and sew two or more pieces together. My Cowboy CB4500 stitcher can sew over 3/4 inch, or 20+mm

I don't have the information you need, unless one of our manufacturers can export leather to you. Hopefully, another member may reply with better info.

It will be helpful if you list your location in your profile. Most members here are in the US, Canada, United Kingdom and Australia, plus Europe. You asked for leather in a metric measurement, so I think you are not in the USA.

Industrial sewing machines usually require a type 3L, or M style v-belt. The width across the outside is 3/8 inch, or 10mm. The inside tapers down to fit inside the tapered groove in the flywheel pulley and belt pulley.

Some servo motors with speed reducers have an advantage over clutch motors in that some of them can be set to spin faster than the clutch motors can. This recovers some of the lost speed that happens with a speed reducer.

WOW!

Call Bob Kovar at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. The number is 866-362-7397. He probably has a set of those Singer screws.

I resembles a couple of Singer domestics I have worked on. They thread from front to back, with the scarf of the needle facing to the back. Try that, using a system HAx1 standard domestic sewing needle.

Our member dealers, who have the ad banners in rotation on top of our pages, are the life blood of this forum. Please do contact them about your goals.

You are probably unaware of the OP's location, because he has not listed it in his profile. The machine prices you posted are in US dollars, but our new member lives in the Philippines. Our money and prices don't apply there.

It has to also have an oil pump to be totally self oiling. The pump would be on the bottom and would sit inside a gasket-sealed oil pan. Unless there is a pump somewhere and an oil pickup and filter on the bottom, it is manually oiled. The wicks would distribute oil you squirt into certain holes and reservoirs.

Since servo motors can and do fail, it is important to buy them from a dealer who will send a replacement out if a failure occurs within the warranty period. Some dealers may wait until they receive your motor (and confirm the defect to get their credit) before agreeing to ship a replacement to you. This leads to down time on your part. So, choose to buy from a supplier who will use phone or video confirmation and ship you a replacement with a return label in the box. If you are close to the dealer, picking up and dropping off motors is much simpler and a no-brainer. Price doesn't enter into it once you get a year or two of real use on a good motor. Go for quality and replacement policy.

Your needle and thread combination is perfect for thicknesses between 7 - 10 ounces. I sew suede lined rifle slings and guitar straps that are within those thicknesses with the same needle and thread combo, using a CB4500 or Cobra Class 4. You can tighten the knots by using a #22 needle. For anything between 5 and 7 ounces I would use #92 thread and a #20 needle. It is much easier to bury the knots with #92 (T90) thread. As regards the top tensioners, you should be able to pull the top thread out through the needle and raised feet little to no effort, with the feet lifted all the way up (via the ball handle lifter or foot lifter). If the top disks do not separate with the lifter engaged, the crank with the slot along the bottom may have come out of the little round peg that causes the crank to push up between the disks.

Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines sells bobbins, needles, thread and all manner of accessories for all types of industrial sewing equipment. I even buy my sewing machine Lily oil there.

From your recent photos, your machine is manually oiled. All of the holes with red dye need oil, as well as some that have lost the red dye. Oil after each use and place a cheap rag under the feet to absorb dripping oil. Put a rag on top of the foot pedal until your oil pan is constructed. Use white Lily oil sold by industrial sewing machine dealers (in quarts and refillable 4oz bottles). In an emergency you can buy 4 oz bottles of sewing machine oil at Joann's, Hobby Lobby, or Wally World.