Wizcrafts

Do you get the text formatting toolbar now on your iPad? I still have none using my Galaxy phone. The letter N you mentioned is part of the toolbar. If one's device doesn't display the formatting toolbar, the N is not there either. This was typed from my Windows 7 PC. Note: there is a tiny arrow on the right edge of the formatting toolbar. Clicking on it shows or hides the toolbar. That arrow is missing on most Android device mobile browsers.

Marrie; Ask your nearest Adler dealer to look to see if there is a throat plate with a very narrow slot available for your machine. This plate replaces the existing throat plate and requires the removal of the bottom feed dog. This converts the machine to dual feed: moving needle and inside foot. If not, see if there is a narrower feed dog and needle plate combination. The feed dog would probably have a much smaller hole, requiring smaller needles, for fine work. Otherwise, you may have to buy a separate machine for the lighter work. I keep a straight stitch Singer 31-15, that takes a wide variety of presser feet (including rollers), feed dogs, throat plates, etc. It is much easier on thin and soft material than any of my walking foot machines. There are many modern equivalents of that machine. It is a tailor's machine. Look for one with a servo motor, that does not require it to be operated at break neck speeds to distribute the oil.

I don't see any letter "N" to click on, using my Galaxy S3 phone. Plain text is all that is available to me and other smart phone users. Something is wrong with the device detection coding on the LWN forums.

My partner just bought a 20 ton press from Harbor Freight. We intend to use it for a clicker and to mold holsters. What type of rubber should I get and where is the best usual supplier? Our projected size is 1' x 1' x 1" thick. If anybody has a part number, it would help. I'm also hunting for a 1' x 1' x 1" cutting pad for clicker dies.

This machine has been discussed on LWN in a past topic, here. In it, the capacities were found to be about 1/4 inch of leather, using #69 thread, or #92 maximum.

The Singer 29-4 uses one of the smallest bobbins in the history of sewing machines. It has about half the capacity of a standard home Class 15 bobbin, as used in the 15-91 class machines. Further, the machine is not built to handle heavy thread. You will be pretty much limited to using #69 bonded thread. While one or two bobbin loads may sew a saddle type motorcycle seat, it will not be as strong a seam as is usually required, especially if the rider is extra heavy. You really need a (cylinder arm) walking foot machine capable of handling #138 bonded thread, top and bottom, for the strength to hold up to rider weight and the elements (for motorcycle seats). Many come with a 1" diameter x 5/16"+ bobbin (M) that can hold enough #138 thread to sew at least a half dozen single seats. Or, consider a 441 clone, which has a huge cylindrical bobbin and can probably sew about 20 to 30 seats per load.

If by thick, you mean 3/8 inches, yes and with up to #138 bonded thread and a #23 needle. It can sew down to probably 2 ounces of firm leather, using #46 bonded thread and a # 10 or #12 needle. Most folks would use it with no less than #69 bonded thread and a #16 or #18 needle, which works fine into 3 or 4 ounces of leather.

Maybe the needle bar positions the 16x257 too far to the left and it allows the hook to hit it.

You can bypass the reducer with a longer belt from the motor to the machine, for higher speeds.

These needle designations are more or less specific to one manufacturer. They completely leave out an entire class of chisel or wedge shaped leather point needles, often designated as LL and LR. They closely resemble hand sewing awls that are oval in shape. Some have the left side down (LL) and others have the right side down (LR). Also missing are the S point needles made by Schmetz for the big Adler and Juki 441 type machines. These needles are oval chisels, with the edges perfectly inline, front to back.

Yes Yes

No, it's just a standard upholstery grade machine. Examples of 441 clones sold by our member-dealers include: Cowboy CB3200, CB3500 and 4500 Cobra Class 3 and Class 4 Techsew 4100 and 5100 The actual 441 is the Juki TSC-441

CCPhotog; What size needle and thread are you using? What type of leather is that? IS there any chance it has rawhide inside it? I ask because it has happened to me in the past. You sew along fine, then unknowingly hit rawhide, and katish, the needle breaks.

Sorry, but I couldn't resist! ;-) My advice works for most leather capable sewing machines. The smallest needle/thread combination in my list is usually the maximum size for a home sewing machine. Old iron body machines can probably handle up to #92 thread, if you can find #19 or 20 needles to fit them. Most upholstery grade walking foot machines can sew up to 3/8 inches, with a #23 needle and #138 thread. Sewing thicker, material, or using bigger thread usually means stepping up to the largest machines.

The left or right hand twist (or wrap) we refer to is the direction in which the cords of thread are twisted together. If you hold a section of thread between both thumbs and index fingers, then twist down, away from you with the left fingers, counterclockwise, the thread will tighten. This is the standard sewing thread direction of twist or wrap.for most lockstitch sewing machines. It is also known a Z twist. The way the hooks work on modern machines, left twist stays together or gets tighter in operation. Reverse, or right twist thread is wound the other direction and tends to unravel in most lockstitch machines. Shoe sole stitchers use right twist thread. Some hand sewing waxed thread is wound with a right twist. Double needle machines have vertical axis hooks. If one hook rotates in the opposite direction to normal, right twist thread will not tend to unwind like left twist might. No, only on sewing machines.

Until you can speak with Bob Kovar, try tightening the two spring loaded screws that secure the shuttle and bobbin case to the end of the arm. Then back off between 1/4 and 1/2 turn each. Next, remove the leather and unthread and replace the needle with a brand new one. Make sure the needle is all the way up in the needle bar and well secured, with the rib on the left and scarf on the right. Set the stitch length lever to the middle - zero length position. Slowly rotate the flywheel towards you from the top (always rotate it counterclockwise) and stop when the hook point is just about to meet the plane of the needle. Shine a flashlight or the machine's LED light so you can see the alignment of the two pieces. Is the hook still about to contact the unthreaded needle, with no material under the feet? The hook should intersect the center of the needle about 1/8 to 3/16 inches above the eye, on the needle's upstroke, and miss the cutout scarf of the needle by about the thickness of a business card. If the hook actually makes contact with an unthreaded needle, with no material under the feet, the shuttle and hook need to be moved to the right a little, until the hook clears the needle. At this point you should speak with your dealer.

The chart that Tree Reaper linked to is an excellent guide for matching thread to needles. In your case, since the machine came with #138 bonded thread, it should also have #23 (Metric 160) needles with it. You should wind some #138 onto a bobbin and try again. #138 thread, top and bottom, is best sewn with a #23 needle. If you are sewing leather, a leather point needle works best.

By any remote chance, are you using right twist thread?

Upholstery grade compound feed walking foot machines are found everywhere industrial sewing machines are sold. Look up industrial sewing machine dealers in your general area. I buy most of mine from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. Brand names you should look for include, but are not limited to: Adler, Brother, Chandler, Cobra, Consew, Cowboy, Econosew, Highlead, Juki, Mitsubishi, National (out of manufacture, but I own a very good one), Pfaff, Sailrite, Singer (old and out of manufacture, but popular), Techsew, to name a few. What to look for You should look for a machine with a reverse lever, large bobbin, easily set stitch length adjuster, clutch to protect the hook in the event of a thread jam (on vertical hook machines only), and a powerful servo motor for smooth speed control.

Size 138 (T135) bonded thread is best used in 1/8 inch of leather. Under that, I recommend #92 into 4-7 ounces, or #69 into 2 - 4 ounces. It is foolhardy to mix 138 on top and 69 in the bobbin. It makes no sense at all and is pert near impossible to balance the knots. If you only need 10 or 11 pounds breaking strength, just use #69, top and bottom, with a #16 or #18 needle. If you need more strength in thin leather, try #92 thread using a #19 or 20 needle.

No. Get a separate flat bed compound feed, walking foot machine for upholstery and thin leather. They take smaller needles than don't flex as much, have narrower feed dogs with smaller holes and are more easily balanced with lighter threads. Most upholstery machines are able to sew with bonded thread sizes 46 through 138, or cotton/polyester sizes T50 through T105+, into 3/8 inches of compressed material. FWIIW; I now use system 135x16, Titanium coated needles in both my walking foot and patcher machines.

I get needles in just about all available systems and sizes from Bob. That includes #24 needles. As for the thread getting caught in the shuttle race, the same thing was happening to me. I called Bob about it and he told me to back off the two spring loaded screws a half turn from tight. That seems to have cured that issue.

Try a #24 needle.

The CB 3200 is in a class of its own. It is a new design. There are other sewing machines that can sew 1/2 inch with heavy thread, but not in that price range, or simplicity of operation, with triple feed. I could have told you about the ~$6,000 Campbell Randall needle and awl machines, or the Adler 205-370 (~$6,000). I didn't even mention the longer arm Cowboy CB4500 or Cobra Class 4, or Techsew 5100, all of which can sew 7/8" with heavy thread and sell for the lower to mid 2k range, depending on the accessories ordered. The bottom line is think about your near future plans and buy the most machine, with the best dealer support you can possibly afford.

I'm just a tinker, tailor, soldier and spy, nothing more.