Wizcrafts

Upholstery grade compound feed walking foot machines are found everywhere industrial sewing machines are sold. Look up industrial sewing machine dealers in your general area. I buy most of mine from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. Brand names you should look for include, but are not limited to: Adler, Brother, Chandler, Cobra, Consew, Cowboy, Econosew, Highlead, Juki, Mitsubishi, National (out of manufacture, but I own a very good one), Pfaff, Sailrite, Singer (old and out of manufacture, but popular), Techsew, to name a few. What to look for You should look for a machine with a reverse lever, large bobbin, easily set stitch length adjuster, clutch to protect the hook in the event of a thread jam (on vertical hook machines only), and a powerful servo motor for smooth speed control.

Size 138 (T135) bonded thread is best used in 1/8 inch of leather. Under that, I recommend #92 into 4-7 ounces, or #69 into 2 - 4 ounces. It is foolhardy to mix 138 on top and 69 in the bobbin. It makes no sense at all and is pert near impossible to balance the knots. If you only need 10 or 11 pounds breaking strength, just use #69, top and bottom, with a #16 or #18 needle. If you need more strength in thin leather, try #92 thread using a #19 or 20 needle.

No. Get a separate flat bed compound feed, walking foot machine for upholstery and thin leather. They take smaller needles than don't flex as much, have narrower feed dogs with smaller holes and are more easily balanced with lighter threads. Most upholstery machines are able to sew with bonded thread sizes 46 through 138, or cotton/polyester sizes T50 through T105+, into 3/8 inches of compressed material. FWIIW; I now use system 135x16, Titanium coated needles in both my walking foot and patcher machines.

I get needles in just about all available systems and sizes from Bob. That includes #24 needles. As for the thread getting caught in the shuttle race, the same thing was happening to me. I called Bob about it and he told me to back off the two spring loaded screws a half turn from tight. That seems to have cured that issue.

Try a #24 needle.

The CB 3200 is in a class of its own. It is a new design. There are other sewing machines that can sew 1/2 inch with heavy thread, but not in that price range, or simplicity of operation, with triple feed. I could have told you about the ~$6,000 Campbell Randall needle and awl machines, or the Adler 205-370 (~$6,000). I didn't even mention the longer arm Cowboy CB4500 or Cobra Class 4, or Techsew 5100, all of which can sew 7/8" with heavy thread and sell for the lower to mid 2k range, depending on the accessories ordered. The bottom line is think about your near future plans and buy the most machine, with the best dealer support you can possibly afford.

I'm just a tinker, tailor, soldier and spy, nothing more.

Loops from the top thread under the bottom layer are caused by either little or no top tension, failing to feed the thread through the take up lever, or too much tension on the bobbin thread, or wrong hook timing. Verify that the top thread is threaded correctly. Something that is not always apparent is the rotational timing of the hook when it meets the ascending needle and grabs the loop. The hook can be made grab the loop when it is retarded or advanced, by raising or lowering the needle bar. But, if it is out of sync with the direction of motion of the take-up lever (and check spring), bad things will happen. I had to advance my hook last year to resolve an ongoing problem of the top thread making a snap noise as it was pulled around the bobbin. The retarded timing of the hook allowed the take-up lever to begin its upstroke a little too soon, pulling hard on the thread before it was past the halfway point around the bobbin. Advancing the hook and raising the needle bar allowed an extra few degrees of rotation needed to get the top thread over the hump without extra stress. This made for better bottom stitches and no more loops under the work. We are talking about very old iron here. My 31-15 is from 1921. It was never meant to use nylon thread, because such thread was non-existent back then. It was a tailoring machine, meant for use with cotton thread, sewing cotton, gaberdine and other light garments. My Dad had a 31-15 in his tailor shop, for 50 years.

3200! It has triple feed with a smooth feed dog, as opposed to single bottom feed with aggressive teeth. The 2500 has a sewing capacity of 7/16 inches. The 3200 can cover 1/2 inch. But, the triple feed is where the big difference lies. Also, the 3200 takes the same harness feet as the bigger 441 clones. The 2500 only has two feet available, to my knowledge: split toe and roller. Both machines can sew as thin as 6 ounces, using #92 bonded thread. Unfortunately, neither machines needles are available in leather point in size 20, which is the proper needle for #92 thread.

Somebody ucked him fup.

The post to which you replied with a question to the original poster is almost two years old: Posted 29 July 2012

You guys and gals can see the 1541 in action on YouTube. Various people post videos of their sewing machines in action. For those of you who are newbies to sewing leather and heavy canvas and vinyl, I have a video showing how a walking foot machine works, and another showing me sewing a rifle sling on my National 300N walking foot machine.

1: Yes, with system 135x16 leather point needles. 2: Yes, especially if you use Titanium coated series 135x16 needles

The trick to using home (domestic) sewing machines on leather is to use thin thread, like #69 bonded nylon, with a #16 or #18 leather point needle, a Teflon or roller foot, and sew no more than about 1/8 inch of soft to medium temper leather. This would be 2 to 4 layers of soft upholstery or garment leather, or one 8 ounce belt that isn't too hard. Once you start sewing belts with linings, you'll need to go through 3/16" of leather and suede. This is the outer limits for home machines. Anything thicker will have uneven stitch lengths, and trouble bring the knots up inside the bottom layer. It also tends to break needles as they get deflected by the hard internals that veg-tan leather contains. Not least is the motors on home machines. They are built and geared to penetrate cloth, not leather. You'll have to hand wheel to start sewing and to resume after slowing down.

That (RE-607) is a portable dual feed walking foot machine, with a driven outer presser foot and bottom feed dog, both with teeth. It's identical to the Rex RX-607 and Alphasew, Thompson, etc. It is fine for use on small upholstery and sail repair jobs, using outdoor canvas, Sunbrella and Naugahyde or similar vinyls.Not so good on leather, unless it is very thin and soft. Capacity is around 1/4 inch of compressed soft material. It will handle thread sizes up to #92, using a #20 needle, but it will last longer using #69 thread and a #18 needle. The motor is rated at 1/10th horsepower, which is about 1/5 to 1/8 the average power used in real walking foot machines (1/2 to 3/4 HP). That said, if you have any plans to sew medium or hard leather, or any stack exceeding 1/4 inch, or with thread sizes 138 or larger, this is not the machine you want. It will bend the presser foot drive lever and seize shafts in their cheap bearings. These are Chinese clones of other clones of earlier clones of the Thompson portable. The best of the bunch is the current models from Sailrite, as they have beefed up moving parts and connecting rods and better bearings. I made the mistake of buying a machine like this off eBay. It arrived with the main shaft seized from handling by the carriers, although the box had no external damage. The drive levers could be bent with your hands. I was lucky enough to get a partial refund after paying to ship it back.

I have an inline presser foot that I use when there is only a narrow sewing flange and a raised shape on the left. I got it from Bob Kovar, at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. It is shorter than the standard feet and requires lowering the presser bar. I also have a left and right set of "paddle feet" from him. The right toe paddle foot has a paddle shaped tab that sits in front of the inside foot, while the side sits on the edge of the sewing flange. It saves my butt sometimes when I don't want to readjust the height of the presser bar to accommodate the shorter inline trailing foot.

I try to match the size and breaking strength of the thread to the project. Plus, one has to choose a combination that conceals the lockstitch knots between the layers. So, here are some of my general recommendations for you. For very thin and/or soft projects, 3 - 5 ounces: #69 thread with a #18 needle (below 441 practical limit. Round point only.) (8 /inch) For thin projects, 6 - 8 ounces: #92 thread with a #19 or #20 needle (at practical bottom 441 limit. Round point only.) (7 /inch) For 9 - 12 ounces: #138 thread with a #23 needle (typical, consistent 441 bottom limit. Smallest leather point 794 needle) (6 /inch) For 13 - 20 ounces: #207 thread with a #24 needle (great for stitched belts, single and double leather) (5.5 /inch) For 21 - 28 ounces: #277 thread with a #25 needle (5 /inch) For 1/2" to 3/4": #346 thread with a #26 needle (4 /inch) Extra heavily stressed projects, 3/4" to 7/8": #415 thread, with a #27 needle. (3.5 to 4 /inch) Exceptions Holsters, outside the pants, with security thumb-breaks: If at least 1/4 inch thick, use #277 thread, at 5 /inch. The knots can be buried inside the layers and the 44 pound thread breaking strength resists tearing during a struggle for the gun. Sam Browne duty belts, 1/4" to 5/16" should be sewn with #277 thread, at 5 /inch. Extra thick, double leather (over 3/8") professional weight lifter's belts should be double row stitched with #346 thread, at about 3.5 or 4 to the inch. These belts take a tremendous amount of stretching and abuse. Stitches per inch I use long enough stitches to look good on top without forming loops on the top or bottom when the project is bent (like a belt). Conversely, when the work calls for closer stitches, you have to make sure they don't perforate the stitch line. Why? "S" point needles, like the type 974 Schmetz makes for 441 clones, slice the leather with inline, wedge shaped cuts. This buries the ends of the thread inside the top grain and makes it appear like the stitches are closer together. If properly spaced, thick thread adds to the strength of the package. But, if placed too close, the holes in the leather weaken the package beyond the thread's ability to secure it. In fact, if the holes are so close that the thread is stronger than the leather between the holes, it can slice right through them. Also, the larger the diameter of the thread, the bigger the knots formed by the lockstitches. When sewing with thick thread, like 207 and larger, space your stitches out to avoid slicing through the leather: e.g., no smaller than 6 to the inch. When sewing with #138 thread & 23 needle, you can go a little shorter, to 7/inch. If you use #69 or 92 thread, 8 to the inch is okay. Thread breaking strength list #69 (T70): 11 pounds #92 (T90): ~16 pounds #138 (T135): 22 pounds #207 (T210): 32 pounds #277 (T270): 45 pounds #346 (T350): 53 pounds #415 (T400): 72 pounds

Strima Sewing sells them in Germany, but only size 250. A box of 100 will cost you $100 US, plus shipping.

In my case, the Cowboy CB4500 was the answer to sewing leather and webbing up to 7/8 inches total thickness. It sews with bonded thread sizes #138 through 415, but I usually thread it with #277.

I own a National 300N triple feed walking foot machine that sews 3/8 inches of leather with #138 thread, top and bottom and has a large bobbin. It is very similar to the Consew 206RB- series, with the -5 being the newest version. I believe that either the Consew 206RB-5 or the Chandler 406RB-1 will fit your stated requirements perfectly. I would strongly recommend the servo motor upgrade, especially if it is a Family Sew FS-550S, with a 50mm pulley. It has the torque to punch through up to 3/8" of soft through medium temper leather at very slow speeds, such as we leather sewers use. I've never seen a roller foot machine with a moving needle. Every one I've owned or looked at had a fixed needle and single row feed dog under the roller. Only the Singer 45K25, Alder 105 and GA5-1 Chinese clones, or the bigger triple feed 441 clones, are heavy enough to sew 3/8 inches of leather, day in and day out. These (GA5 type) machines are bottom feed only and can take needle sizes 23 up to 27, covering thread sizes 138 through 415.

I agree with PcCox. I have bought all of my servo motors from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. Right now, the cream of the crop is the Family Sew FS-550 that he sells already equipped with a 50mm (2") pulley. You'll need to do some math to get the correct new v-belt length. See if your current belt has a length designation (e.g.: M44, 42", 3L40, etc). Then measure the diameter of the current motor pulley (assuming that the motor tension adjuster is somewhere near the middle of the bolt). Divide the existing pulley diameter by 2" and whatever the result, that is how much shorter the new belt needs to be. Example: Your machine has a 4" pulley on the clutch motor and a 44 inch v-belt (or leather belt). The motor you are buying has a 2 inch pulley and sits about the same distance under the table, for the motor output shaft. Divide 4" by 2" = 2. The new v-belt (type 3L) would be 44 - 2 = 42 inches. Variables are the vertical position of the motor shaft and the current position of the bracket that positions the motor and tensions the belt. If the adjuster is already at the bottom, you'll possibly need an even shorter belt and vice-verse.. This also assumes three bolts holding the motor on.

You'll be good to go with the roller feet, especially the top and bottom drive on the post bed machine. They will sew 1/4 inch. I don't know what the thread handling capacity will be. A Pfaff dealer may be able to tell you that. But, the needles that come with the machines should reveal what may have been run through them by the previous owner. He might know and even supply the thread. Otherwise, assuming a limit of #138 bonded thread, using a #22 or 23 needle is a safe guess, until otherwise instructed.

Take some photos of the parts and post them here. Maybe they are for a 153 and you got them by accident. Somebody will want them.

The machine has an integrated oil pump and must spin at about 3,000 rpm or more to distribute the oil to all the bearings. That works out to about 50 stitches per second.

The "lift" of the hand lifter lever or knee, or floor pedal is not the same as the amount of material that can be sewn. All walking foot machines must lift at least 1/8 to 3/16 inches more than they can actually sew. This allows the feet to alternate up and down. In you case, that amount is 10 mm, or 3/8 inch. The length of the needle and thickness of the feet determines the maximum thickness that can be sewn. If you exceed that limit, you end up with skipped stitches, or broken needles, or bent crank arms, or a broken thread guide on the bottom of the needle bar. If the needle bar hits the presser foot in operation, it will get knocked out of time.