rmr

Many years ago I had one- it is certainly quicker than hand stitching. Mine was very problematic- I had a heck of a time getting it "tuned" just right so it wouldn't miss stitches. Then if you changed thread thickness you had to start all over again. Plus I found with some projects- you need 3 hands to operate the thing- one to pull down on the handle and 2 to control your work. I finally got so frustrated with the thing I sold it and took the funds to purchase a cobra machine- which I found it amazingly easy to learn to use- stitches are better and I cant remember the last time I dropped one. IMO- I would save a little more $$ and move up to a cobra or one of the other similar machines, which work equally as good. There are many out there used these days - it will be worth the investment, learning curve will be reduced by about 90%, you will be less frustrated than with an expensive piece of equipment (boss) that only works so so good luck with your decision

great- I do have that attachemnt

Thank you- I do have a flat table attachment for my Cobra- I guess I need to take some scarp canvas and try it out- it would be awesome if I don't need another machine RMR

I would like to start making canvas duffle bags, sportsman's bags, gun cases... ( like the filson bags) using 18oz canvas- possible waxed canvas- with leather trim pieces. I currently have a Cobra 4 cylinder bed machine and a Cambell Bosworth for my leather work Somewhere I read for heavy canvas that a cylinder bed machine( cobra) will cause bunching of the canvas- is that true?? That article recommended a flat bed machine. If that is correct info- what would be a good machine to be looking at. I have never worked with canvas before. I would probably just use the Cobra machine to sew the leather trim pieces onto the canvas- so I just need something to sew the canvas. Thank you in advance RMR

thanks guys for the reply and advice- sounds like I need to start practicing

I have a range bag I will be sewing around a curved end. The curvature will not allow me to use my cobra cylinder bed to sew very well- I was contemplating using either the holster or stirrup plate . I have never used them- but I remember somewhere someone saying that you need to reduce the tension on the needle thread and will probably need to re-adjust the stitch length. Is that true- or any other recommendations Thank you RMR

Thanks- I will give that a try- I guess I have been ay overthinking this one

I am trying to find a source for 6" long 2 ring binder hardware - I have tried Buckleguy, hardware elf, ohio travel bag....... I have found them online- but you have to buy 50 units at a time- only need 2-3 any ideas thanks in advance RMR

Im getting ready to make a leather cover ( somewhat similar to pictures below- but different )for a fly reel while its on a fly rod. Will be used primarily to transport the rod/reel to and from the river and protect the reel from getting nicks/scratches while in transport. It will be exposed to the elements to a degree ( so might get wet, but hopefully not soaking wet)- its not going to used to keep the reel waterproof Most of the other outdoor products I have made - I have used Latigo. I can use that here also but am having a difficult time locating Latigo in the thickness I desire. I have seen other cases made from Bridle and English Bridle leather . I do not want to use a chrome tanned product because if it gets wet and the chromium slats leach onto the reel or rod they may corrode them. So would you use Latigo or Bridle/english Bridle leather for this project - or other recommendations Thanks for any insight RMR

I have 3 of Terry Knipscheild (sp?) knives- head/round knife, skiver and pointed knife. Have had 2 of them for 3-4 years now- I stop them prior to using them each time to keep them razor sharp- and still have not had to have them re-ground. I ususally am cutting 5/6 or 8/10 oz veg tan, latigo or bison. don't hold off getting a quality round knife because of the concern about having to have it reground RMR

I see the same- Im guessing as its passed through the leather multiple times- it starts to pick up some of the dye, or even oils/waxes in the leather and starts to discolor. Switch to an off white and it will not be noticeable RMR

I have some weaver exact touch edge paint that is several years old now- it has gotten somewhat thick and clumpy- still usable - just not as this as I would like it to be. Can this product be thinned?? I tried a small amount with water- didn't mix well. Thanks RMR

I would be interested in one- but would like to see a picture RMR

Sorry- was the instrument from post 147- tried to cut and copy- cant figure out how to do that RMR

Did anyone ever get one of theses units?? let me know how it worked out Thanks RMR