druid

Correct. Slip the arm through the leather and holds the grip but also, that same hand holds the Dirk in a "point down" orientation. The Dirk point sticks out about 3-5 inches and the strong hand swings the primary weapon. Use the Targe to block an attacker's swing and thrust the Dirk tip downward into the lower abdomen or below...

That is absoLUTELY HAWT !!!!!!! M'am, your skills are incredible and your talent is nothing less than superb. How long [in {Wo}man-hours] did that take you?

This might help? These first two links are sealing wax [for letters]. It also happens to be what we use to seal the tips of Cane drone reeds in our bagpipes. It dries hard, much like "acrylic paint" to the appearance and very much like fingernail polish. What we do is melt it onto the tip of [sugar] cane drone reeds so that the air passes over that tip and to the reed blade on the side. In thickness, it will chip like fingernail polish though.....however, if simply 'rubbed" ont othe eddge and then sealed afterwards, I think it's doable. http://www.amazon.com/Princeton-Sealing-Wax-Company-Red/dp/B0015T0JCY http://www.amazon.com/Herbin-h331-20-Supple-Sealing/dp/B003PEKORM Otherwise, there's red/oxblood colored shoe polish: http://www.cobblersupplies.com/servlet/the-924/Angelus-Shoe-Boot-Wax/Detail?gdftrk=gdfV21872_a_7c239_a_7c579_a_7c56611448

http://www.topgunsupply.com/vm2-kydex-clips-1-set.html http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=318093&cm_mmc=Froogle-_-Self-Defense%20-%20Holsters%20%26%20Belts-_-PriceCompListing-_-318093 http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=182153&cm_mmc=Froogle-_-Self-Defense%20-%20Holsters%20%26%20Belts-_-PriceCompListing-_-182153 http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/store_detail.html?s=BT1 http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/store_detail.html?s=BT2 http://www.buffalogapoutfitters.com/storefrontprofiles/processfeed.aspx?sfid=110172&i=240113874&mpid=7349&dfid=1

For me, it was out of necessity. Hunting cabin with my dad, uncle and cousin......my fixed blade knife is an heirloom handed down from my great grandfather [skinner blade style]. The sheath was probably as old as the knife itself and fell apart. We went into town [general store] to find a new one, none to be had in that blade style. However, there were leather work bibs and a Handy stitcher [sewing awl]...so I made my own. Since then, the things I make are more "utilitarian" in nature...only having started to dabble in "art work" as of late. I rarely post my works because I don't think they are nearly as quality as what I see here.

Man, that's HOT. I'd wear that in 1/3rd of a heart beat! Question on the Cantle though... do you find it "cheaply made" - as in - thin metal material with cheap plating? Or do you find it to be a very quality item? Thanks.

that's a sharp looking transport holster there, bud. I'd rock that anytime.

Yes...the Cantle is the top portion of the sporran, often in metals [military or dress] and where it opens [like a hunter style]. http://www.google.com/images?hl=en&q=sporran+cantle&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=Z8PDTK3FB8T58AaYiOXXBg&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=5&ved=0CEEQsAQwBA&biw=1024&bih=653 As to the etymology of the word, the only thing I find is in reference to a saddle cantle. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sporran but I also found this http://wordsdomination.com/cantled.html and it references what I believe could be the reason it's called a Cantle. I marked the parts in bold red. Definition of CANTLE 1: a segment cut off or out of something : part, portion2: the upward projecting rear part of a saddle Origin of CANTLE Middle English cantel, from Anglo-French cantel, chantel,diminutive of Old French chant side, edge — more at cantFirst Known Use: 14th century---------------------------------------------------Being that a Cantle both "projects upward" like the shape of a rainbow...AND it's the top edge of the Sporran...is the only thing I can think of as to why it's called as such. .

It looks like one for the longbow and the other for the arrows...but I guess I could be wrong...lol.

I see all pics. I'd guess a firewall

Well I guess that would depend on what 'style' you are looking to make... There are 2 to my knowledge; 1. Rob Roy style 2. "modern" style. The Rob Roy is pretty much like a "sack" where the "modern" style is reminiscent to a muzzle loader's 'possibles' bag. The Rob Roy has the flap that you can carve, looks like this one I made: Or MUCH better versions found here: http://www.wyvernleatherworks.com/ and the "modern" version looks like this absolute piece of beauty [NOT mine]: That latter sporran is just gorgeous and would wear it in half a heartbeat.

is it a "closed" or "Open" topped holster? Which does he want? Where [on his belt] is he going to wear it? Front on hip or back of hip/kidney? What model handcuffs are being inserted/retained? [yes, there's a difference in models]. Peerless are the "most common" cuffs that are issued by departments, Hiatts would be next and ASP are very favorable to Officers who purchase their own. Peerless are more compact than Hiatts, the Hiatts have a wider "arc" for the double bar for slightly bigger wrists. The ASP cuffs are twice as thick because the double bars are coated with plastic/delrin. These are things to know before building a multi-task holster. Then once you have that info, I've seen models with a magazine on each side of the centered handcuff, then models with both magazines on either side of the handcuff. That's a "left/right-hand" thing for the Officer.

I was in fact, going to post that ^^ ...lol. Also, a coat of plates as armor: and these Ghillies seem more historically correct than those posted:

I don't have a pattern, nor have I ever made one...but as an archer I can tell you what we like in quivers....... 1. We like them quiet. Arrows shouldn't bang together and the quiver itself shouldn't "creak" or make noise when moved or bumped. 2. We like them to be able to withstand tough, country scrub that can scratch them deeply. 3. It should be a naturally dark color like walnut or mahogany. 4. It should have plenty of room to keep feather-fletched arrows apart at the fletching / nock, so the feathers don't get ruined. 5. We like a soft [neoprene?] and thick cushion in the bottom for arrow tips, that include broad heads, so they don't damage / dull each other. 6. It should have a stiff, double loop belt hanger [as opposed to a single one like a handgun holster] that allows us to mount one on either side of a trouser belt loop....something like this |_____|...space...|_____| 7. Having the ability to switch from belt-mounted [warm weather] to slung on our back [bitter cold weather] is a plus. As far as a motif to carve, that should be something that is personal to / for the user. If they hunt a particular animal [or a few kinds] carving it or them into it would be nice. Perhaps the attached pic might help?

http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/index.php?cPath=41_56

Well, I have neither the dummy/mannequin, nor the metal armor. ..lol. I guess I could see if one of the major department stores might have one that's broken or something.......

OK so if I abandon the Coat of Plates idea and go with a Cuirass style, how do I mold the plating after I dump it in hot water/wax? Do i use a seamstress dummy like this? http://cgi.ebay.com/...4=263602_263622

do you have a picture of the back of it?

might I suggest distressed upholstery leather like this? http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/home/department/Leather/9399-79.aspx?feature=Product_92

My God...that's FANTASTIC WORK! How long did it take to create [total]?

I think it's Pine Pitch and that's a nice bottell!

thanks, that was my thought also. I had thought about a Cuirass Armor Leather style armor but it's not quite accurate to what I'm trying to depict. Since it's a Greek/Roman design [which is still an ancient design], it's just not "me" on the field...lol. I have some time and a lot of though that is going to go into this project.

Good God Almighty... these are FANTASTIC! Even those who say they were "mistakes"...awesome work! Those looking for plates of beeswax, there's a local shop here in town that sells it: http://www.moravianbookshop.com/ Give them a call or write...I'm sure they can help you out.

Sorry it took so long to get back here. Got a "you've got a virus!!" virus and it took quite a bit to get rid of it. Thanks. the crossbow itself, took some doing...lol. I will definitely look into the chrome tanned leather for the under-vest. 5 coats of eco-flo super. Copy. Thank you. Yes, you are correct that it will enhance ball breaks....that in itself doesn't bother me too much though. The entrapment of paintball elements though...that kind of does. If I have the plates inside or outside, the paintball will still break. My own idea was that if "waxed" [or Varnish] were on the outside, at least I could wipe it off more easily than from the open grain of the sueded side of leather [when the plates are on the inside]. I had not even considered acrylic floor polish! Thanks! That's a very interesting idea and I kind of like it! My only "issue" is as I've said earlier though...trapped paint inside the sueded grain of the leather. I guess though, that at this point I have to accept the fact it's going to get stained.......lol.... HOWEVER!! I know I can get Kydex in brown..........hrm........ To the Sole leather idea...I'm not really trying to break my bank account...lol. Like you said, it's pretty expensive. I have a Tandy location local to me and was pricing them the other day. That's quite a bit over budget, not to mention that the sheer amount of rivets I'm looking at are going to KILL me...lol. As I calculated my armor, I'm looking at no less than 250 rivets for the garment. Brass "quick" rivets are bad enough, I almost choked on my coffee when I priced the copper ones. I will look into that. Thanks for your reply. Thank you all for your help. I will genuinely consider each of your responses and weigh which might be right for me.

Well, after working with Kydex to make paintball marker holders, I'd say that if - IF - I were to line it with leather, I'd use the thinnest and most pliable leather you could find...say...pigskin splits [even economy]...and form the rough cut leather to the object FIRST and then bend the Kydex over the item [say a firearm] and then glue them together with a binary epoxy. The Kydex will bend and mold to whatever you want [also dependent on thickness] but it gets "Holy crap!!!" hot with the heat gun...hot enough to burn the leather if trying to mold it inside it. Here are the two holsters I made: NSG Splatmaster pistol PMI 68 Magnum The Kydex is the .08 thickness and both used a good portion of each of the 12"x24" sheets I got for them. On both holsters I used these belt clips