druid

I think these will have to do for you. After searching about 400 google pages for every possible variation of "pistol/knife/holster/sheath/rotating/belt/clips".....this is what I found http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=rotating+belt+clips&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=12860221011413369244&ei=JeA-TN_LCYKdlgfq-PmiCA&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=result&resnum=3&ved=0CDkQ8wIwAg# http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=713128&utm_source=froogle&utm_medium=free&utm_campaign=655 I bookmarked them myself...lol

Badge wallet cutouts are different, according to shield style...there's oval, round and shield [heart shaped]. Mine has a shield cut out and is trifold. Do you want me to take pictures with a ruler for scale for you? Can do if you want...

that is HOT

Well, you could use a simple knot design like these:http://www.identifont.com/samples/bannigan/CelticKnots.gif ..or honor a Family name by emblazoning it in there in Celtic type script/font like this:http://www.ireland-information.com/freecelticfonts.htm Being a hunting sporran though, you could do zoomorphic, like this: http://celtic-tattoo.net/zoomorphism_zoomorphic_pictures.aspx Your choices are almost limitless.

ote name='yan' date='07 May 2010 - 07:40 AM' timestamp='1273232418' post='153614'] Maybe you sould try 1 or 2 small pieces of the leather you are gone use, harden them and left them for a couple of hours in a saline solution (water with 0.91%salt). This should be a lot harder on the leather then a match of paintball. I do simulation of medieval armor, I could spend 12 hrs in a row running and fighting at 30 C (about 80 F). I use cuir bouilli (with water not wax) and a couple of coat of varnish. So far I did'nt have any probleme with my armor. You said you want to use a leather greek style helm over your field mask, The probleme with those was the perception. It reduce the field of vision (especially if you put it over something else) and the noise. For close combat in a open field it's not a big issues but for range attack and ambush situation those could be a big probleme. Anyways it would still look very cool, please post a picture of your kit when it is done. Thanks. I will try the salt solution. Yeah, the ferocity of paintball games is dependent upon the "game of the day." Most times, it's "walk-on" games of teams about 20 vs 20 but there are large scenarios where it's as large as 2000 vs 2000 [invasion of Normandy recreations]. I'm making this set up for a future Oklahoma D-Day [the game I just described] and the event is in OK, in June, and the average temps can get to 104*F with an 80% humidity. I'm concerned that this type of weather will affect the "look" of the leather by heating it up [by sun and my heat/perspiration discharge] and distorting it. I read up on the cuir bouilli process and find it to be the most simple and historically accurate method of making the armor but the reason I investigated the paraffin method was to give it a layer of outside protection from paint staining. With my concerns on the State's weather tendencies, I was concerned that the wax would soften, allowing the armor plates to bend and perhaps, crack the wax finish... You say you use varnish on your armor. That's interesting. Do you find that it cracks or flakes when struck with instruments? Or even over time? How well does it take a re-varnish? Does it "wrinkle" when applied over [re-varnishing] a previous coat? I'd have to scan my armor sketches into my HD for you to see, but I have been working on the helm. Now, this helm fits over top of the face shield/goggle for paintball. The base is Kydex and will have the leather cemented to it. The leather will be a thinner tooling leather so I can carve Celtic designs into it, like you see on my cardboard templates: And the top/crown of my skull will be covered as well. I plan on replicating a "pony tail" mount like this one [taken from a movie] : ...with similar intent but different design. I'll be using a horse tail as the "hair" exiting the mount. The hair will be approx 16" long, have a few braided strands in it and very small skulls as the braid locks at the bottom. The armor itself front and back, is made from the plates, riveted to an undergarment that actually makes the vest form. Think about police body armor . The carrier that the panels use will be the template for the undergarment. Now, on my lower back will be pod holders. These are pouches that hold cylindrical tubes, that hold < 180 paintballs per tube. I need at least 6 but would prefer 8. I'll form the leather over these tubes and use Chicago Screws to hold them in place around the border. That way, I can remove the holders for cleaning/servicing. My air tank will be mounted horizontally across my shoulder blades. . This too will be mounted with Chicago Screws. Here are pictures of my paintball "tactical' vest to give you an idea of what I'm talking about: Pods tank - in this pic, you see two vertical tanks. I'm going to make it so that it's one tank and horizontal instead: ...and the prize at the end of the day is my crossbow: Concealed inside the "crossbow" facade is a paintball marker. My design loads from underneath, instead of the typical top-feeding markers. Imagine me coming over a castle rampart shooting players like this.....

Thanks Suze...I'll check them out. In regards to the "melting"...that was just something I thought of on my own. I've been to fairs were the SCA fighters were doing their thing but in truth, I've noticed that they spar for up to 15 minutes at a time and then trade out 'warriors.' Paintball is a little more time-intensive than that...depending on the circumstances/type of scenario, we can literally be out in the direct summer sun for hours at a time. I'm worried that in waxing the leather, it will soften and allow the 'plates' to deform. The "armor" is to be more aesthetic than 'practical' - meaning that yes, it will provide protection simply because of the nature of its construction, it's more for the "affect" of other players seeing me and getting an "awe man, that's COOL" type of response...lol. While I did look to other armor designs, including the Japanese you described, none really match my "druid"/Scottish field personal quite like the Coat of Plates/Gaberdine does. Paintball does not require any type of 'armor'...with the exception of certified goggle/mask systems specifically designed for paintball. Any armor we wear is purely by choice. In this particular case, I want to make my 'armor' and incorporate pod and air tank holders on the back because those items are needed for playing the game. I actually thought about using Kydex but I wanted it a bit more 'realistic' for the 'look'

Well, I have a really odd request here...lol. I am a lover of paintball and have been since 1986. For those that don't know much/anything about it, paintballs are 68 caliber gelatin spheres, filled with FDA approved food dye and for all intents and purposes, "soap." They are fired from a paintball marker at up to 300fps, which is about 202mph. I have a field 'persona' which is my name...'druid' - this persona includes wearing [besides the required safety gear] a Kilt, greaves and vambraces. I want to make two items to complete my persona: 1. A 'reversed' Coat of Plates like the Gaberdine pictured 2. Leather "helmet" that covers my field mask. Pic of the Gaberdine Now...I want to 'reverse' the design. Instead of the 'plates' being on the inside, I want to mount them on the outside. The leather won't be so "thick"...perhaps in the 8-10oz range. I mean I could use 16oz but I'm trying to cut down on weight, as well as cost. I will use brass or copper rivets in the corners to attach the 2" x 3" plates to the garment underneath. Also, the armor will only come to my waist, not to extend down to the upper thigh like in the pic. The front and back plates will cover my like firearm body armor....completely covering my front and back and join with belts/buckles on my sides. The Helm is also going to be made from leather and will cover the entire mask. It will look sort of like the Corinthian Helm you saw in the movie "300"....with the exception that I want to tool Celtic designs in it. My question is: Which is the best way to harden and protect the leather from; 1. water and perspiration 2. Paintball strikes and staining ??? I've read up on water-hardening, as well as paraffin wax-hardening the leather. The problems I face are the fact that it gets hot in the summer and I will perspire....as well as some paintballs will stain all kinds of garments. To me, water hardening the leather won't protect it from water/sweat or paintball staining...and waxing it will just "melt" and soften in the sun and heat. OR Is there another method of hardening the leather into "armor" AND protect it from these things? Some type of liquid solution that I can soak the leather into and accomplish these goals? On my greaves and vambraces, I used "Mod Podge" to coat the leather but it's soft and supple leather...not hard 'armor' leather. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Now this is a sporran I would wear with pride. VERY nice work!

common holsters that fit the 29 also fit: Smith & Wesson N Frame .357 Model 327 (5" bbl) Smith & Wesson N Frame .44 Model 29 / 629 (5" bbl) Smith & Wesson N Frame .45 Model 625 (5" bbl) according to http://www.copsplus.com/partnum1779.php

I agree with Big River. I've used Kydex in a limited manner but it's very easy to work with. It scores easily with a common hobby knife, snaps off like plexiglass and is easily molded with heat. If using snaps, a simple hand punch will go right through it with a bit of twisting on the bit. While it's flat, measure the belt width + add 1/4" + 1/4" for belt thickness and then the overlaps for the snaps. Punch the holes for, and set the snaps, before you bend the kydex

pricking irons http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3984.m38.l1313&_nkw=pricking+iron&_sacat=See-All-Categories

Well, I have a similar punch and while it's a decent one...IMO puts too big a hole in thinner leathers like pig and deerskins. I mean if you are going to use Latigo Lace or similar, that's ok...or you can use a chisel thing at a minimum. If you are going to hide the seams inside with a common/waxed thread stitch, I think the hand awl would be a better solution. Light leather punch http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/search/searchresults/3229-00.aspx?feature=Product_14&kw=punch Thonging Chisel http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/search/searchresults/3052-00.aspx?feature=Product_10&kw=punch

1. A simple inward-tapered-mouth bag would be most easiest to make. Make a rectangle with a slight Trapezoid shape...say...4" across the top and 6" across the bottom times whatever height you want. Cut 2 [one front, one back]. Fold the top 1" on each half and stitch to make the pocket for the thong/drawstring closure. Lay the outsides together and sew inside out. Trim and turn right side in. 2. Deer skin/replica doesn't need a groover. Use an Awl punch to make your stitching holes and Whip Stitch the seam. 3. That's how I make my Sporrans [search my "Rob Roy" thread]. 4. Usually...but it depends on what you want the bag/pouch to look like when done. Only you can decide that.

Whew! Sometimes my thoughts aren't conveyed properly in print and I think that I'm misunderstood at times...lol. 1. Placement - As I said earlier, a hole punched into the front of the Sporran pouch, perhaps 2"-3" below the lower horizon of the Cantle. The thong, about 1"-2" long. 2. How to attach - I know exactly what you mean about hand-offensive knots. If the thong is braided, you can "open" the ends of the braid to make a "star" pattern like an asterisk and cement the ends down flatly. Either a piece of lining cemented over top of the area or completely line the pouch with a pig skin split, will cover that area and not be offensive. I too don't like a bulging gusset...my rabbit hair/chrome Cantle version does that. What I did was to take a toothpick and some cement, fold the gusset at the natural crease,add a tiny bit of cement and clamp it. Think about "glued pleats" on a modern Kilt made from camouflage material.

While I typically love the designs of your Sporrans, the Cantle on this one looks a little to 'busy' for me. I'm not sure if it's the 2 tone color scheme, the 'large' nature of the Cantle, or the size of the Triquetra in the center...or if it's how the tassels connect to the Cantle... I think for me, it's a combination of two...a too large Triquetra and how the tassels connect to the Cantle... Personally speaking, I think if the Tassels attached to the center of the fur with about a 1" thong showing, I'd like it a lot more and regardless of the Triquetra. I think it's just a matter of personal preference with me and hope that you don't take offense to my commentary - it is a very nice sporran regardless of my insignificant preferences...

Thanks. I'm going to try another one when I get more pigskin but with a heavier flap that I can stamp and stain an opposing color and perhaps make it "removable" and "interchangeable" with other color/style flaps. I have attached the .pdf file pattern I downloaded and used for the make. It's not my pattern and I don't remember where I found it to give them credit for it 5. Old Style Sporran Patterns.pdf 5. Old Style Sporran Patterns.pdf

Well, I found a good pattern with great detail and made my first RR style and I really like it. It's very plain because I'll be using it as a "side/back pouch" when I'm Bagpiping, so it's utilitarian in appearance. The bag leather and gusset is black pig skin splits, finished on one side and suede on the other. The front reinforcement piece and back brace/front flap section was made from scrap I had laying around. I think it's 6oz leather and would have used something thicker, had I had any around...lol. I made the button from a Whitetail antler I had laying around and the cordage is black 550 paracord. I used my Brother sewing machine for the entire bag and it went together very nicely.

The Bracers and Greaves I made myself were for paintball. I used ModPodge to seal them from paint stains and it has worked VERY well. Apply with a wide paintbrush or foam paint/glue slab. You can see the "sheen" of the ModPodge...it's like a 'matte' finish but it works really well...

the pic is kind of small...can you enlarge it?

http://www.plastidip.com/home_solutions/Super_Grip or http://www.plastidip.com/home_solutions/Plasti_Dip either or both should do the trick

Agreed. I'm a Bagpiper and we wear Ghillie Brogues. Mine have a hard leather sole [unlike cheaper 'Piper's Brogues', which have a rubber one] and I must say they do get slick...both on wedding dance floors and on the street. You should see the slip n slide on wet pavement... One thing I did to combat this was to take clear tub and tile Latex Caulking and add a layer to the sole. It will wear off eventually but it helps quite a bit.

Yep...and actually, this [past] year's was smaller. They had to because of financial considerations. Next year promisses to be bigger though. And nothing in VA? Are you serious? I used to compete with our band [Grade II] from Connecticut to FL. That's a shame bud...really. This is a great festival...little cool at night or on cloudy days [last weekend in Sept] but it's a nice festivall all the way around.

I play the Bagpipes. Started when I was 15 (1985) and have been playing since. At the age of 18, our band entered EUSPBA competition in Grade IV and 4 years later I retired as a Grade II band competitor and from that band all together. Flash forward 10 years I joined another band and am currently the Pipe Sgt. Pic that appeared on the front page with the article about this year's local Celtic Festival The Band

Nice A5 you have there. Have one myself, as well as my first marker ever...a 68 Magnum from when I was in HS [back in 86] - and a few other markers as well...lol. Me playing paintball: Me other: My 13yr old - banner chick (taller of the two) at the CelticFest parade Me at the Sponsor tent CelticFest 09 My pic that appeared on the front page of The Morning Call The Band