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Everything posted by WyomingSlick
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Drawing Sheridan Pattern- First Attempt
WyomingSlick replied to Karmindixie's topic in Floral and Sheridan Carving
Sure you can. And the more you do it, the easier it will become. -
Drawing Sheridan Pattern- First Attempt
WyomingSlick replied to Karmindixie's topic in Floral and Sheridan Carving
There is a big differance between calling something your work, and claiming "original design". True originality is as rare, perhaps more so, than artistic ability. If you ever looked at many old Doodle Pages, many of them strived to show ways that you could take a design or pattern, and make your own personal statement by varied use of tools, differant techniques, and even reworking of the design to fit other styles such as inverted carving or silhouette work. There is nothing wrong with tooling a pattern pretty much like the photo-carve shows, but it certainly doesn't hurt to experiment and find your own interpretation. If you build a table out of wood, is it not your work.......despite the fact that it has a flat top and four legs just like a jillion other tables? The only misrepresentation is if you copy something exactly and represent it as the original by using logos, or other identifying markings. -
LOL All right you guys......keep it up......and the next thing you know "them guys" will be swamping eBay with them like they are doing with all that other leathercraft stuff. Seriously. as you guys may know by now. I am a great believer in the power of the printed word, and most of what I have learned outside of direct experiance, has been from books. I keep thinking maybe somebody in Japan would get their act together and get those books translated into "good english" and market them over here. It seems to me like Japanese companies, or any other language companies would make a sincere effort to translate better than they do. I am thinking a two step process would help a lot. Have a bilingual native translate it to english........and then have a native English speaker who is fluent in whatever the original language is, do further work and refine the syntax, and meaning to make it readily understandable to english speakers. Till that happens, if it happens.........are the books worth the money ?,
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There is no "probably" about it. They are definately for setting saw teeth. And not for straightening them, but rather for setting them at a slight angle so that the teeth are cutting a slightly larger kerf than the thickness of the saw blade which helps to keep the saw from binding in the cut.
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You just got some wrong information there. The two smaller items are tools for setting the teeth on saws, primarily woodsaws and have nothing to do with setting snaps or rivets.
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LOL "lesipharunious" ??? "Boolsheetorium" ????? Yup, the second one sounds familiar. !
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LOL I think you just wanted to bring your work to our attention....and that is fine. It looks to me like you do some very good quality work. My question to you would be.....why would you be selling a product that should be designed for many years of use, if you have doubts about it standing up to a few months of "shelf life" ??
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A few thoughts on screwing.......and on unscrewing. 1. It is always good to have a quality screwdriver....one that fits the screw propely. The cheapo one that you got out of the bargain bin should have stayed there. 2. Any screw is easier to install, and stronger if a proper pilot hole is drilled. 3. If installing brass screws, or other "weaker" screws, it is preferable to find a quality steel screw that matches it and install the concho with that one first. After it has done the job of cutting a thread to hold the screw, remove it, and put in the weaker screw. It will help to lubricate the screw threads with some wax or parafin. When removing screws that have been in place for a long time, it is usually very helpful to apply some heat. NO ! Don't put a blowtorch to it and catch the saddle on fire. LOL If you have an electic soldering gun or pencil type, or a woodburning pen, use that to heat up the screw by touching it to the screw for a bit. Or you can heat up some other piece of metal, and use that to transfer heat to the screw. The heat will loosen the grip of the screw in the wood, rawhide, fiberglass, whatever.
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If you are talking about connecting the chain to the ring at the bottom......the only things I can think of it find a heavy duty key ring that will hold up to the stress imposed on it.......or use a small carabiner in place of that ring.
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I like it ! Are you done, or are you going to dye it to match the skin on the bike?
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How about braided grips? I encountered a biker once who had braided grips complete with leather fringe at the end to match the fringed leather jacket he wore. The brake and clutch levers were also covered with braid but no fringe, just a turk's knot at the end of them.
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All of you should thank Al Stohlman, Craftool, and Tandy also, because some of the tooling patterns are knock offs of patterns from the "How to Make Holsters" book that is copyrighted.
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I never even thought of that, but now that you brought it up......I can see where eBooks would be a very good alternative for those buyers who are not near a source for them. Save a bit on the cost and zero bucks for postage. Then there is the fact that if a fellow had it it on his laptop/notebook he could study it easily in his free time. Having never bought any of the electronic stuff from TLF, perhaps someone who has, could give us a review of how good they are and tell us about their ease of use, the resolution and sharpness of pages printed from them, and so forth.
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I suggest you get a copy of Al Stohlman's book "Figure Carving Finesse". You may as well learn from "The Master" ! Should be easy to find online......they come up once in a while on eBay also. Have included a few snapshots of pages from the book. Also, to make them really stand out....you may wish to use the embossing technique for which Al Stohlman wrote a very good book. By doing a search on here, you will find information from other leatherworker.net members on the technique.
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I think it is overpriced and then the cost to ship it makes it even worse. Basically it is just using an eccentric cam principle, and any decent machinist could build you one. You might check around your area for amateur machinists and show them a picture and get a price quote from them.
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Wow, those are some "pricey" dudes ! You would think for that kind of money, they would include an instruction sheet. Maybe they figure it is like sex.......you should be able to figure out what goes where. LOL
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I Want To Buy A Good Rotary Hole Punch. What To Lok For Please?
WyomingSlick replied to Tallbald's topic in Leather Tools
The hand strength should not be an issue since those are a compound action type that require much less closing pressure. What may be an issue is the throat depth. It looks to me like the tool also has some dies to set eyelets and some types of snaps/rivets which is a plus if you don't already have such tools. Also a plus for inclusion in a travel set for jobs away from home. While the quality of the steel in the tubes may be an issue: I would not be surprised if tubes from other metric/foreign hole punches will also fit this tool. And like you may have noticed, they have invaded the leather tool section on eBay in a major way ! -
I Want To Buy A Good Rotary Hole Punch. What To Lok For Please?
WyomingSlick replied to Tallbald's topic in Leather Tools
Finally ! I have been waiting for someone to mention the compound action hole rotary punches. I have never owned one but I do have pliars and cutters that use the same type of action in my shop. So I know that they markedly increase the pressure one is able to bring to bear on the task This may be a very important consideration for those who do not have strong hands. That same engineering that makes them easier to punch with also redistributes the stresses and should make their frame less likely to twist or warp like the economy type punches often do. -
I spotted the intials when I enlarged the pics. What prize do I win ? Seriously, that axe strap is something to be proud of !
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- guitar strap
- double loop stitch
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Crafttool Pro Stamp Beveler Question
WyomingSlick replied to Toolingaround's topic in Floral and Sheridan Carving
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Wow. Now that is small ! One possibility I can think of is that they used small copper tacks with small copper washers. With those, they could do the assembly, nip off the tack points, and peen the end of the shank to secure it just like you would do with a larger rivet.....only on an itty-bitty scale.
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It also show the bottle of dye, although none too cleatly. Perhaps you could look at picture of dye bottle in catalogs/online and figure out whose dye it is?
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Every since I first started leatherwork, I have been intigued by the name "Camouflage" as applied to a type of leather stamping tools. It was not hard to understand that a beveler, beveled......a seeder made seeds.......a veiner made leaf veins....a backgrounder matted down the background and so on. Of course I knew what camouflage was......the use of camouflage by the military was well known to the public during the time of the War in Vietnam when I was a youth. But as was obvious to me, even as a kid, the tool was not being used in that way for leather tooling. I heard several definitions from various people that tried to use the military sense of the word in defining it's use on leather, but they always failed to convince me since the function of the tool never seemed to be to hide or conceal anything Exploring the eytomology (origin ad derivation) of the word, CAMOUFLAGE. always seemed to lead to a smilar explanation. All of them seemed to refer to the action of hiding, concealing, or veling something from the view of one's enemy. Most of them agreed that the word was of French origin. Recently, I came across something which used the word Camouflage to denote a camelskin covering which the Algerian soldiers, ( who the French were fighting ), used to conceal themselves under and appear as camels lying down at a distance. So you had ...... CAMOU meaning "camel" ....and ......FLAGE, meaning, "to veil". As an example of an early form of military concealment. Hmmmm......... a camel hump. Here was a definition of the tool name that made some sense. The word, Camouflage, was not to define it's function............but rather, it's shape or appearance............that of a camel's hump, or a man concealing himself under a camelskin so as to appear as a camel hump..
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- camouflage
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And what size is pea gravel ? You know that they invented measurement standards several thousand years ago.....inches? Centimeters? Millimeters? The most commonly found size of copper rivet has a head about the size of a pea....that is, about 15/32" or 12mm. Are you even sure that these were copper rivets? It is much more likely that they were brass rivets since copper corrodes very easily. .
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Crafttool Pro Stamp Beveler Question
WyomingSlick replied to Toolingaround's topic in Floral and Sheridan Carving
Sure it does. Sheridan work is not the only type of floral work that has cuts close together, but it does have a lot of them. I grew up learning to tip my beveler in such situations and never heard of, nor needed steeper angled bevelers. But.......If you do a lot of sheridan type work, then the steeper bevelers are a worthwhile investment. Most leather stamps can be used at differant angles for differant results. Cliff Ketchum on his old Doodle pages displays great artistry in his use of stamps in differant ways.