joshk

all Duncan's models are sold....

I'll respectfully disagree.... I use a pair of Dremels for all of my sanding and burnishing and have for the past few years.... tried other methods, including belt sanders, and the Dremels are what work best for me.... they're great tools when used properly and can quickly ruin a project when not used properly....

all models are in like new condition.... a couple having broken hammers or dye stains.... all Ring's models have had the blue coat stripped.... all gun models are $25ea shipped and mags are $10ea shipped unless otherwise noted.... email josh@shopleatherworks.com with your Paypal info if interested.... Blackhawk Sig P226R Duncan's CZ-75 gun and mag - $30 for both FN FNP9 - brand new - $30 FN FNP45 - brand new - $30 Springfield XDM 3.8 Springfield XDS Ring's Colt 1911 Goverment - broken hammer Ruger GP101 - broken hammer Sig Mosquito 22 Springfield 1911 Loaded - cocked & locked Springfield XD9 subcompact Mags (4) generic Glock 22 mags (1) Springfield XD9 mag

there are no models available for the Sig 1911's.... it seems at this point you either have to wait for someone to start making them (who knows when that'll be) or buy the actual guns....

S&W M&P 340 PD

I agree with the above.... not to mention the slide length isn't the only difference between a G19 and a G26.... the dust cover on Gen 3 and Gen 4 G19's have a light rail and the G26/G27 doesn't.... unless it's a Gen 1 or Gen 2, using the methods you described of pulling the gun out and molding the barrel will not result in an exact fit and can also look a little awkward....

I'd say change only the rubber out first and see how that works out.... if you're still getting surface deformation then lighten up on the pressure a bit....

is it 1" thick overall or is each layer at least 1" thick.... there's a big difference.... if it's multiple sheets of thinner rubber that's more than likely the problem.... the thinner sheets will expand more when under pressure and cause, for lack of better words, an odd texture on the surface of the leather.... the amount of pressure being used is also a likely culprit.... I've been using a single 1" layer on top and another on bottom in a 12 ton press and haven't had any problems....

I've used the nylon adjustable shank rivets from McMaster-Carr and they worked well....

it's not necessarily that simple with Duncan's.... the Sig 1911's are the perfect example.... Luke wants to cast them due to a high number of requests, but can't get his hands on the guns to use for the molds....

next week my buddy's going to teach me how to do casting and the Sig 1911's are going to be first up on my list once I learn....

the Galco Fletch rig that you referenced is a pretty basic pancake OWB with a thumb release.... most pancake OWB's like the Fletch, unless they're lined, are only 2 layers total of leather..... something else you need to keep in mind if you're planning on doing a thumb release is what condition you plan to carry you 1911 in.... a rig with a thumb release designed for condition 1, cocked and locked, will rarely fit the same gun carried conditions 2-4, hammer down.... you also need to pay a bit of special attention to way you work and mold the release around the safety as an improperly worked release can be prone to disengaging the thumb safety....

nice work! love the spice shark trim set!!

that's what I do with my mags....

this seems like a topic be suited for the "Leather Photography" section.... http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showforum=92

+1 to all of the above....

no issues with reholstering or closing the snap.... it's a very tight fit behind the snap, but it still closes easily.... it's a 1911 only mod due to the trigger clearance on most DAO's....

no pics of the interior.... it's just a snap mounted inside the trigger guard that when you draw the gun you just pull it through the snap instead of the more traditional thumb release....

that's actually more function than aesthetics.... it's a trigger guard mounted pull through break similar to Alessi's Bodyguard shoulder system....

I asked Luke over at Duncan's about the Sig 1911's and he told me "Sig 1911's I'd love to do I just can't get the guns." While I would love nothing more than to be able to go out and buy the guns themselves, funds just aren't available for that.... anybody in the Michigan area that can help out with the guns? I'm pretty sure they could even use a good model for the casting like BRL's green plastic one....

just a quick tip.... from the looks of the pic you may need to add a bit more clearance between the top of the holster and the trigger guard/grip area.... it's hard to tell for sure from the pics, but if it's too close you'll have a difficult time getting a full firing grip on the draw....

great job for a first.... very nice!

thanks guys! Jeff.... yessir, the stitched IWB loops are lined....

I haven't shared anything on here in a while so here's a random mix of some gear I've worked up over the past few months.... opinion, comments, and criticisms are always welcome.... PC-2 OWB with full front shark trim and fully lined.... DPS with shark trim reinforcement band.... Pancake OWB with cognac elephant reinforcement band.... Single and dual row stitched gun belts with matching key hangers.... Chocolate set: T-2 IWB, combo mag & TDI carrier, and gun belt.... Apex IWB with cognac elephant trim.... Chocolate Eidolon OWB with black elephant trim.... Chocolate set: T-2 IWB and Orka pocket mag carrier.... Chocolate Safeguard IWB with black elephant belt loops.... Chocolate pocket set: Beluga cargo pocket holster and Orka pocket mag carrier.... Experimental OWB with cognac elephant trim.... ASR shoulder rig for 1911 with pull through trigger guard break....