billymac814

A guy on here sells them. Rob at RMB custom knives. He will probably speak up soon and put a link to his site.

I recently bought an Osborne bag punch in 1/2" size and it would NoT punch through anything after a few tries. I finally realized that the opening where the leather should eject from was too small and it was basically filled up. Needless to say no matter how sharp it was it wouldn't matter so I had to return it. Next one worked fine. I have a tormek sharpener that I use to touch up my edges on most of my tools and then use the strop wheel to polish them. Particle, what punches did you buy from that place in Texas? I have a die coming from a certain place in Texas, I'm hoping it will be ok.

I think 207 is close too. If you use it for repairs and need to use different colored thread often I find its much easier to use a Jerk needle (McKay needle). It works similar to the speedy stitcher but much easier. Just grab the amount of thread you need, stick the needle through the work, it has a hook on it so hook the thread and pull half through, then punch the next hole and pretty much finish just like the speedy stitcher. The pros are that you don't have to load it with thread and you never have to worry about too much thread coming out. You should be able to use the same handle for the Jerk needle. Springfield leather sells these needles individually or they can be found at shoe repair shops or supply houses but ask them for a McKay needle( they are used in McKay stitchers). I use them all the time on repairs, I have two sizes for thinner or thicker threads and they definitely have a place in my tool box. Its much quicker and easier to match the color of the existing thread.

Most shoe repair supply companies will have Bourbors linen thread. I get mine from Frankford Leather. Isachs in Chicago would have it too and sell it to the public.

I used to saddle stitch everything and used its strentgth as a selling point. Once orders picked up though I had to either get a machine or quit taking orders and now after machine sewing at least a 1000 holsters or so and not having a single one return because of broken thread I'm convinced its strong enough. Also like others have said the cement I use is doing more to hold it together than the stitching. I also used to go to great pains to either glue the ends of the thread or burn them and when I moved my shop I kinda got away from it and haven't had any problems because of it. When I do saddle stitch now I do it with an awl and two needles and definitely taper the threads. All of the cords get tapered and inserted through the eye, you don't just cut a few cords off and insert the remaining or it can make a mess. It is a PITA though and even harder with pre waxed thread. Ohio travel bag sells pre tapered threads BTW. I tried them and they were OK but that's about it. On repair work I will use a needle from a McKay stitcher, often called a Jerk needle or Hook needle and do a lock stich, this is similar to using one of those stitching awls but much easier especially if you're always using a different color thread. I only do this on repairs though and only if I can't get it on a machine. I never got into short cuts about punching holes like using a drill press or drilling them, however I will admit that I would be tempted to do something if I had to handsew everything. I think I would choose the diamond awl blade in a non running drill press as this method would give the same results as I would get doing it with the awl.

Bob, I was going to ask this same question. I hate the brake. I have 3 servos and only one has the brake and its on my patcher which I hand wheel a lot. I have a Sewpro 500gr on my Consew and I think it has some sort of brake but it doesn't stop me from hand wheeling it and the motor on my Cowboy 4500 has a digital one that allows me to handwheel it. All were purchased from Bob at Toledo so he definately has ones without it. I have asked him if there was a way to deactivate it and he didn't seem to know or possibly forgot to answer as I probably asked 5 other questions on the same email. Unfortunately for me the Patcher is the one I really don't want the brake one because some times I'm sewing akward things like luggage and it makes it very difficult to even get to the pedal to depress it a little bit to release it and other times its just easier to handwheel it for a few stitches. I would love to know how to deactivate it, I haven't found the time to take it off and tear into it although I'd have to bet there's a way.

I don't know the answer to than, it says on the Jar not to mix anything with Tan Kote, of course right after that it says to use Tan Kote can be used to thin antique. It also says to keep away from children and it doesn't say that on Bag Kote so you're probably correct. I never cared for Tan Kote as a finish, I only keep it around to thin antique but I swear I've thinned it with water before but maybe I'm thinking of Bag Kote (or I was just doing it wrong and that's why I don't like it). The guy that owned my shop before me sold Tan Kote to everyone for everything, shoes, couches, jackets etc. I still get people asking for it on occasion and I do sell it to them but since its not something I use I've got most people switched to something else that I like better or I feel is better suited for what they need.

I don't think a super expensive knife is going to make anyone better at tooling though unless they are already good. I do very little tooling so I'm not that good but when I started I had Tandy ones as well as Barry King ones and another good one that I can't remember what it is. Neither made any noticeable difference to my tooling however someone more experienced than me would probably be able to tell the difference. Moral of my post? I have no idea but if you're new don't think that spending 100 bucks or so on a new knife will improve much, that's what I thought and I was let down although at the time I probably mentally thought it made me better just to justify the cost. I still use my cheap ones along side the better ones since I have different blades in each it makes it easier for me.

I'm pretty sure it would work. I heard that If you thin down Tan Kote you basically have Bag kote. By that logic I would think it would be fine however I would recommend you test a little first.

I can't make out what the picture looks like but if you're trying to have a black piece with cuts in it that are green I would first dye your cuts green then use a wood block wrapped with a tee shirt to dye the black. That should keep the dye from going in the cut as long as its not dripping wet. Resist usually only works for antique type finishes, spirit dyes usually penetrate through just about anything. I don't know if it would resist water based dyes though as I've never tried.

You make a very broad statement saying you'll never buy a Consew or a Juki. The Cobra class 4 you want to buy is a clone of a Juki 441, it obviously sews leather. I have a Cowboy 4500 that's basically the same. I also have a Consew 206rb that'll stitch at least 3/8" of leather with no problem. All of these machines need to be set up to sew leather by a dealer or someone who knows what they are doing, this usually involves slowing down the motor as well as other modifications that will keep the feed dogs and such from marking the leather. I don't believe your machine to be suitable for serious leatherwork though, you may be able to stitch some light leather with it but you really need a walking foot machine like the 206RB or the Cobra 4 but you need one to match your needs. If you're making shoes the post machine would be a good choice too as its easier to sew uppers on that. I have a Singer post machine for that. Good luck and don't rule out brands because you bought the wrong machine, just rule out that model. Lots of new people end up buying the wrong machine because the seller said it can sew leather. I have an old portable sewing machine that can technically sew leather but it certainly isn't suited to sew leather all the time or even do it well. Talk to Steve or another dealer, tell them your needs and they'll get you fixed up with a machine to meet those needs.

I did a test using two layers of about 7oz glued together. I beveled the edge applied the ink and burnished on my wood burnisher. It burnished quickly and looked good, about the same as dye but maybe even a little easier. The downfall is it is pretty thick and harder to apply with a good crisp edge. I'd maybe consider using it for black items though where its not as noticeable. Here's a picture although its hard to really see. I probably could have got it a little better yet if I really tried but this was a quick experiment.

Yea it takes 10 times longer at least. I only do it on occasion and the main thing is to charge accordingly.

I'm always impressed at the details of your items. It seems it would take forever to make something like that. Mind sharing how you do the dye sublimation? I couldn't even spell it, luckily my iphone was able to fix it. I can relate to never having anything nice. I always end up with my goof ups that are a little to imperfect to sell. Everything nice I make for myself I end up selling when someone wants it. My friend suggested on my next holster I should tool my name on it so no one wants it. Of course they all get my name on it so that probably wouldn't work. It is important to carry a good example of your work, I always got pissed at myself everytime I had to explain that what I have is a little imperfect, although everyone always says they never would have noticed it if I wouldn't have mentioned it.

Out of curiosity and if you guys don't mind me asking- how much are you guys charging for wallets? I get asked quite often to make them and do once in a while but damn there's a lot of pieces to cut out and see together that they take a while. I like to be able to make 70-90 bucks an hour to cover overhead and still make a little bit at the end of the day. If they want something tooled on it now were talking either alot of money or no money for me. I've thought of coming up with 2-3 designs and that way I can reuse the same patterns over and save some time but it seems like most of the people coming in want something specific(not tooling designs, designs of the wallet). That also rules out using pre made interiors like springfields sells although that always seemed like cheating to me although I did order some to see what they were like. I mostly make holsters and my most popular IWB is 2 pieces of leather, I normally make around 40 at a time and average less than an hour a piece if I'm being efficient and they sell for about 80 bucks. I end up turning down a lot of work because I feel I can't get what I'd need to although I don't even bother quoting them a price, maybe I'm missing opportunities and people do pay up for a wallet they want. I know the prices vary greatly between designs, I'm just looking for some examples. Thank you.

If you want to revisit your testing try Fast-fix. Its a superglue that is as strong as it gets. I use it on repair jobs where no other glue will stick. There's also an activator spray that sets it up instantly. Its fairly expensive at around 15.00 for a 2oz bottle(not really that bad considering it only takes a drop). You can find it at most shoe repair suppliers and online I'm sure.

I don't think it'll matter much, I would just antique over it as long as it isnt caked on which it shouldnt be, it should be absorbed into the leather. Antique isn't waterproof though so you'll need to put a top finish on it. I've re-antiqued motorcycle seats I've made that have had beeswax mixtures already in them with no problems. Another thing that I've done is doing an antique finish using black dye basically dry brushing it where I need it. It takes way longer obviously but is more durable in the end.

My personal preference is to buff as little as possible. I've tried a number of black dyes and the Pro oil dye requires almost no buffing and doesn't rub off as bad as the others. I will say I have no experience with the Eco flow stuff, my experience is all with spirit dyes which I feel are a better choice however that isn't based on anything but opinion so take it for what its worth.

I finish my holsters that I dye with pro oil black using resolene mixed about 50/50 with water, it ends up being pretty much satin. More resolene makes it more shiny, more water makes it less shiny. I apply it with a sponge brush unless its an antiqued item then I spray it. I also oil them before I finish them. I used to use Bag kote and it was ok but when I started diluting the resolene I found it works better for me. Leather balm is good for some things but it definitely isn't a satin finish. Fiebings pro oil dye really isn't an oil based dye, its a spirit dye. I'm sure you could use the satin sheen over it, I'd experiment with scraps and see if it was they way you applied it. I love the pro oil dye, I hardly have to buff any excess off of it, I would suggest anyone using angelus dyes to give it a try. I tested every black Angelus makes(about 5) and all of them required much more buffing than the Pro Oil dye although less than regular Fiebings.

Yes exactly, so with a needle feed it works with the feed dogs and moves back while the needle is down through the material and keeps the layers moving together.

Its feeding the material. Don't feel bad, there's a lot to know about sewing machines and it can get intimidating and a lot of people end up with something that doesn't suit their needs because the seller said it can sew leather. I'd recommend reading the pinned post that Wizcrafts wrote regarding selecting a machine, he also has videos of him using a machine that is very similar to the machine you're looking at.

I'd call the dealer, they should be able to set up the one you want with the servo motor. If not its an easy swap and not much extra. Some people can use a clutch motor just fine and feather the peddle for slower speeds. I have several machines with clutch motors and I can control the speeds pretty good however I much prefer my machines with servos. I would go with the one with needle feed too, it'll help keep all the layers lined up as they are feeding, especially if your feet are smooth to prevent marking on the leather.

I use it on shoe soles and it works good. Its thicker than dye though so I think it may be more difficult to work with on thinner projects. I don't use it on holster edges or anything like that, I just use dye and wax on those. I could give it a go and report my results if you want to know.

I use saddle tan all the time. Once I oil and finish it it really tones it down. I sometimes will thin it down a bit and that also does the trick.

Yes that would be fine for upholstery. That looks to be about the same as the Consew 206rb. I'd imagine they are both clones of the same machine. They are made for upholstery really. There are many feet available for those machines that you'll need for piping and whatever else you'll need. If you're in the US you can check out Toledo industrial sewing machine company for the Consew 206RB. And for what its worth its probably a good choice to buy a new or serviced used one from a dealer if its your first one, it'll spare a lot of headaches and usually isn't that much more in the end.